We helped the Kuskus clan last week with the demarcation of their land. With GPS, the boundaries are drawn on a map. This helps them to officially register their land, leaving no chance for foreign logging companies to move in on it. This part of the forest will be Papuan forest, managed by Papuas.

Satisfied, we sit down in the boat as it heads downstream towards an airport. It’s a four-hour trip, because the nearest airport suddenly ran out of kerosine. “This is PNG, guys! Expect the unexpected...” says Sep, while he steers the dingy towards Obo, where we will catch a Twinotter flight to Port Moresby, the capital.

It’s drizzling, but soon the rains blow over and we enjoy the view as well as the ride. Sep points at a weird animal in a tree. “Remember the clan you helped this week? This is what they’re named after. That’s a kuskus.” From this distance it looks like a cross between a cat and a kangaroo, but the 75 horse-power motor pushes on and there’s no chance of a better look.

The river has many bends, and then, all of a sudden we turn way too much and the engine pushes the rear end of the boat under water. Water runs in, heaps of it! “Man overboard!” The motor drops dead. The boat almost tips under the waves it just produced. “Three men overboard!” I jump to the front and pull two others with me. The rear end drifts up and like mad men we start bucketing water out.

As soon as possible, the ‘swimmers’ climb back on board, because this is a crocodile area! We’re all safe, but the luggage is soaked. My camera, my pictures! Everyone checks their stuff and we’re all very lucky. My clothes are soaked, but my camera is dry. Even the engine still works, despite being submerged for a considerable amount of time.

“Possibly, we hit a log under water,” says Sep. “We were lucky. Very lucky.” After a few minutes of inspection of damage, he sadly reports that the papaya he brought for lunch is missing. It could have been so much worse...

One more hour and still soaked we arrive at Obo airport, where we say goodbye. The accident makes us more emotional. The people arriving to go to the camp look in wonder at our wet clothes.

In the plane we hardly dry off, but it can’t hurt our positive mood. Even the thunderstorm at Port Moresby, which causes the pilot miss the runway twice, can’t spoil our day!

Glad and tired we arrive at the Greenpeace office and attack the luxuries we haven’t seen for so long: chocolate, beer, and a nice shower!

Our story has come to an end. The adventure is over. Florian will board the Rainbow Warrior in Indonesia and sail on for a few weeks. I will go home to my new job.

I am going to miss this. I miss the guys in the forest already. The pictures will be a valuable memory of stories too weird, too good, too wonderful and too beautiful for words. This was a real adventure! A big thanks to everyone starring in it!

Smiles and greetings from me, and on behalf of White Papua Florian, who is already on his way to the ship.

Klaas

PS Karen, you wanted a good story about our trip to Obo, I hope we didn't exaggerate? ;o)