At the start, the broad river estuary is flanked by floating green grass, which undulates in our wake. Our guide from Magipopo takes us through short-cuts in the submerged bush.

Short-cuts are regular features of all our boat trips, in a bid to avoid long trips around the extended promontories.

Lake Murray's water level varies some 6m through the year depending on the rainfall in the feeder rivers' catchment.

Right now we are in the wet season, and so the lake is high (and keeps rising). It's easier to get around, to reach the villages, hunting camps and sago swamps, however the fish have more room to roam and are harder to catch. Apparently in the dry season, the fish are thick in the water and the bird life is teaming.

The grasses sway as our boat disturbs the fluttering dragonflies and butterflies.

The river begins to narrow, the dense bush closing in. The bush is thicker here than down near Kewe camp. The spiky pandaras palms are rife, and a thickness of creepers and vines, palms and ferns cloak the water's edge, making it gloomy and hard to see the bank. There's just reflections and trunks tall and slender in the shadows of the sunken bush.

We stop frequently to clear the engine's prop of tangled grass. Submerged logs and floating trunks bump our boat with a hollow thud; some covered in mosses and ferns look like floating islands. In places these obstacles force us to cut the engine and use trees and branches to pull our way up stream. Or one of the locals poles or paddles us along until the block is cleared.

As the forest thickens, the air is more humid and heat presses on my skin. I'm damp with sweat. Though the creek water itself is cooler than the lake.

After winding through ever-narrower short cuts and bends we arrive at the landing, where four dug-outs sit. As always, a big crowd gathers to greet us – to watch the spectacle and help us unload.