Solomons
Posted by Andrew via Email at 10:20 PM, September 03, 2004
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| (C) Greenpeace |
I'm almost getting used to things like painted island warriors waving long sharp looking spears around and screaming in my face. Like eyes bugging out and good volume. Less scary only because I know this is the "challenge" part of the traditional welcome. The proper response is to hold still and stare straight ahead - not reacting at all. At least that's what I think (hope) is the right thing to do. After some of this, they huddle and I guess they decide we've had enough because they dance back down the dock they way they came, waving for us to follow. Then there's music in the local style - pan flutes and sort of pan flute drums. Not like anything I've ever heard before. Really good. One song sounded familiar, but it wasn't until the next day that I realized it was that '80s hit by Men at Work. Apparently it was by request.
Larger photo
There was also a speech by Abraham Baeanisia, Director of the Solomon Islands Development Trust. A lot of his speech was in Pidgin, but I could make out some of it. Pidgin is a very cool language. Someone told me it's, "like English, but backwards and twisted". Anyway, Baeanisia spoke about how important fisheries and forest issues are to the people of the Solomons, how information is power, and the dire consequences to the Solomon people if current trends continue and the tuna fishery collapses.
Quinton (campaigner) and Derek (captain) also gave short speeches. And Derek invited everybody on board the ship. By "everybody" I suspect he meant the band and warriors and rest of the welcoming committee, but thanks to the loud speakers I knew that everyone else had also just heard the captain of the Rainbow Warrior inviting them for a visit.
I made for the gangway, but wasn't quick enough - so got caught on the creaking gangway as over a hundred people tried to get on board all at once. I finally made it and went down to the main deck where it was less crowded. Our impromptu open boat was a casual affair without organized tours or anything. The crew spread out around the deck, and chatted with our visitors who explored on their own.
These people were really curious. They asked a lot of questions about Greenpeace, fish, forests, what we had seen at sea, and all sorts of things. Everyone liked peering through the portholes into our cabins, and down into the hold. I picked up a lot from the ones I spoke to. One chief from a nearby island tried to explain about the country's recent troubles - the ethnic tension - and how issues of governance and land ownership were involved. Things seem pretty safe here to me - although I noticed there were hardly any women in the crowd.
Our more "official" open boat days will be Friday and Saturday (10:00 to 16:00, if your in the area). Looking forward to them.
-- Andrew
