16 March 2007

So long and thanks for all the fish...

Dear Ocean Defenders,

Well it's the end of the road, or maybe "end of the shipping lane" would be more appropriate. Together, we've been from Capetown to Hawaii, the Southern Ocean to West Africa, the Azores to the Philippines. We've seen oil spills, toxic pollution, pirates and fishy tuna fishermen. Together we've pressured corporations, governments, banks and the UN itself.

We have shaken the corporate foundations of Japanese Fisheries Agency whaling, confronted the financiers of Lafayette Mine, put bottom trawling on the agenda at the UN, sent thousands of messages to the Icelandic government about commercial whaling, and much much more. We've outlined the need for a global network of marine reserves, and called for stricter enforcement of laws against overfishing.

Ocean Defenders, we salute you!

We'd like to thank you for truly being with us on this amazing journey. Thank you for taking action, sending hundreds of thousands of emails, leaving comments and ideas on our blog, talking to us in the forum, sending your artwork to Art4Oceans and your pictures to Flickr, creating an Ocean Defender myspace page with over 6000 "friends" before we even thought of it (thanks Dougie!), visiting our ships, writing to newspapers, downloading Blame Canada! ringtones, linking to us from your websites and blogs, watching the webcam, and telling your friends and family about the crisis facing our oceans.

The journey might be over, but our work isn't. We will keep working around the world to ensure the health of the world's oceans and the plants, animals and people that depend on them - read on to see how you can too.

Thanks again and all the best,
Adele,
Defending Our Oceans Web Coordinator,
(for Rose, Shane, Sara, Kate, Cristina, Andrew and Team DOO

What happens now?

This blog will be archived and we'll have a whales blog as we head to Tokyo and then to the International Whaling Commission. The Defending Our Oceans website will have the latest oceans news, but will be gradually folded back into our ongoing oceans work - so, although the expedition is over, we will still be Defending Our Oceans.

But wait - we still need your help!

You don't have to stop taking action! You will soon start receiving emails from your local Greenpeace office. If you don't have one you will be placed on our international list. You can also choose to join our International (English language) mailing list here.

And we hope you will all join us on the Defending Whales community website. We have a lot of work to do before the next International Whaling Commission meeting (at the end of May), and could really use your help.

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9 March 2007

Audio slideshow - Daniel Beltra's photographs from the Southern Ocean 2007

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Throughout the Defending Our Oceans voyage, you've been treated to some fantastic images, as seen through the eyes and cameras of our photographers. The final leg, where the Esperanza went to the Southern Ocean to put a stop to whaling by the Japanese government, didn't turn out quite as expected. This didn't stop our photographer, Daniel Beltra, from capturing some amazing images.



Watch earlier Defending our Oceans audio slideshows by Greenpeace photographers »

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Let's go to Tokyo

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

We're currently alongside in Sydney, Australia, having returned from a drama-filled 42 days at in the Southern Ocean. And there's no rest yet, at least not from the task of putting an end to whaling. After a brief 48-hour stopover to refuel, resupply and recrew, the Esperanza will be off again, this time heading directly for Japan!

As I'm putting this blog together, a press conference is taking places on the quayside. Aussie rockstar (remember Midnight Oil?) and Shadow Minister for Climate Change, Environment and Heritage Peter Garrett joined to give his take on the Australian government's lack of action on the protecting Southern Ocean whales.

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Esperanza in Sydney!

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Hi folks - after a 7,000 mile voyage, lots of unexpected situations, and 42 days at sea, we're currently alongside in White Bay, Sydney. Earlier, we sailed in past the famous Opera House and Harbour Bridge. Right now, we've got a ship-full of customs and immigration officials, so we haven't yet put foot on terra firma.

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8 March 2007

Last night at sea!

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

It's our last night at sea. Sakyo, Karli, Regine and I are sitting in the campaign office, banging away on our keyboards. It's dark outside, and it's hot inside. It feels like only a few days ago that I was sitting here with thermal gear, reading to walk out on an icy deck. Now, I'm sitting here sweating, and Zeger and Cat have come in from the bridge because of the jasmine fragrance that's wafting around the ship - Regine is the culprit, apparently it's the shampoo she just used, the scent is hanging on the air. Karli, inspired by Regine, has bailed, but I realise there's little point in cooling off under the shower till I'm finished at the keyboard - so here I am.

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Keep the pressure on Denmark!

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

In February, the Japanese government held a meeting in Tokyo to "normalise the IWC. As we reported, it seemed that "normalise" means "business as usual" – in this case, keep catching whales. Denmark was one of the countries participating in the meeting. Because of statements made by the Danish commissioner, the Danish Foreign Affairs Minister is under pressure.

In the near future the minister has to explain the Danish IWC position to parliament - a debate that is desperately needed.

To keep up the pressure we urgently ask you to send an email to the Danish minister for foreign affairs, Per Stig Møller.

Keep the pressure on Denmark! »

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7 March 2007

Ocean Defenders TV: Distress!

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

The last three weeks have not only been about a vessel and a crew in distress. The tragedy in the Southern Ocean has shown how vulnerable the Antarctic environment is. It has been an alarm bell for every one and a warning of what might be if the whaling fleet returns
Watch Ocean Defenders TV »

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6 March 2007

Last birthday of the trip!

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Hello from the Tasman Sea. As predicted - we're now out of the roaring forties, and into warm, easier seas. It's actually hot on the Esperanza today - for the first time since we left Auckland in January, people have been actually commenting on the heat (but not complaining!). The sun was shining today, and the rough seas are disappearing - no more thunderous banging of the anchor as the ship pitches. After the hatches being battened down for the last week, it seemed odd to be free to stroll down to the heli-hanger without worrying about the cold, or the sea conditions.

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5 March 2007

The last of the Roaring Forties

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

By the time you read this, chances are the Esperanza will have left the Roaring Forties. It's some days since we left the Furious Fifties behind. It's got to be said, those old sailor men weren't mucking around when the coined those names, referring to the Southern lines of latitude. Let's hope the thirties are timid. This is my third time sailing in the Tasman Sea with Greenpeace - both previous trips have been on the Rainbow Warrior - and my current crewmate, Logi. So far, he and I have failed to convince anyone that it was really quite calm on both of our trips - both of which took place in winter!

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It's not fair...

Posted by Sara, on the Esperanza

Well, that's the general consensus on board the Esperanza, as we battle through yet another storm. We thought we had seen off the worst of the Southern Ocean, or as Frank said "the Southern Ocean had taken its last bite out of us" when the sheer power of the waves blew one of our portholes to pieces, in the middle of the night.

It was the storm before the calm, or at least we thought. Yesterday the morning came bright, sunny and FLAT. Deadlights up, portholes flung wide, fresh air and the long-forgotten smell of Earth greeted us all. We pointed inanely at the land in vests, shorts and sandals making stupid "oooh, land!" comments (well, I was!). It looked like it was going to be a good day, AND it was a Sunday so we didn't even have to work.

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3 March 2007

The Power of the Ocean

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Well, it's goodbye to the coldness and wildness of the Southern Ocean. Gone are the thermals and heavy jackets. Sandals and t-shirts are starting to reappear on board the Esperanza, and the Oocean is almost flat. The evenings are getting shorter - we actually have proper nights again. Emilie just made an announcement over the intercom, "beautiful moon rising on the starboard side!"

Last night, as you'll have seen from the conversation between Andrew and I, the scene was a little different. So different, in fact, that earlier in the day, Penny and Pep had toured all the cabins on the main deck, ensuring that the deadlights - the brass covers for the portholes - were sealed down. It was a good idea...

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The really really big, colossal squid

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

The damaged Japanese whaling factory ship, the Nisshin Maru wasn't the only thing making recent news in the Ross Sea. New Zealand skipper John Bennett, longlining for toothfish in the Ross Sea, managed to hook his second colossal squid there too, on February 22nd. Now wait a moment... most people have heard of the giant squid, but whenever the colossal squid is mentioned, a sceptical eyebrow is raised. "What's next?" is the question, "the Really Ginormous Squid?"

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2 March 2007

Rough weather chatting

Posted by Andrew (from the Amsterdam office):

The Esperanza has a 24/7 internet connection, which (judging from my instant message chat with Dave today) even works in really rough weather. It's a little bizarre and a little cool to by text messaging with someone on their way through some of the most legendarily rough ocean on Earth

Anyway, seems things have gone wobbly, and Dave is having a rough time. The Esperanza is built to take this stuff, and the crew is more than capable of seeing her through it. But things can't be fun on board.

Here's our chat from earlier (IM names have been changed to protect the arguably innocent):

[10:08] Dave: hey andrew
[10:09] Andrew: good morning (more or less)
[10:09] Dave: good evening then!
[10:09] Dave: I'm in the middle of trying to edit a blog for today
[10:09] Dave: but the weather has been f_cking rotten all day
[10:09] Dave: which is making sitting at the computer kinda impossible
[10:09] Andrew: heh heh
[10:10] Dave: so if you or adele have anything else to stick up feel free!
[10:10] Andrew: pretty comfy where Im sitting
[10:10] Dave: gonna post something in a while if i can
[10:10] Andrew: I'll take a look in a while and post something if yours doesnt make it
[10:10] Dave: i'm currently jammed, standing up between the wall and the office table

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Inky black splendour

Posted by Celeste, on the Esperanza

This is a little something Celeste wrote a few days ago, about her experiences of the Ross Sea last weekend...

Saturday goes down as one of the most phenomenal days of my life. As you know, the pack ice was moving towards us at an incredible rate and when we awoke on Saturday morning there it was. Captain Frank and his competent mates decided to take the ship through the ice. It makes the largest crunching and grinding noises that you can ever believe and actually also knocks the ship around a bit. It is also just so incredibly beautiful to look at - forget the bergs - it's the pack ice that I love.

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1 March 2007

International Polar Year

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

The Esperanza is still rolling in rough weather - there's a few queasy folk and more than one bleary eye this morning. We're still heading north, and the whaling fleet are still near us.

The air and sea temperature is starting to warm up, and after spending several weeks in Antarctic waters, it's a little ironic that I'm going to tell you about International Polar Year. Especially considering we're now 600 miles north of the Antarctic Circle.

Today marks the beginning of IYP, a "large scientific programme focused on the Arctic and the Antarctic from March 2007 to March 2009". The year is two years "long" in order to cover both Antarctic and Arctic. The idea is to have a collaborative, international effort combining the efforts of countries around the world in sharing costs to coordinate scientific experiments.

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28 February 2007

The Japanese whaling fleet crosses the line

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

The Esperanza just escorted the Japanese whaling fleet, including the factory ship Nisshin Maru, over the 60° latitude line - this means that they've now officially left Antarctic waters, and the northernmost limit of where their whaling takes place.

No more Southern Ocean whales will die from grenade-tipped harpoons this season, and the threat to the Antarctic environment by the fire-damaged Nisshin Maru has now been averted. Earlier today, the fleet pushed its speed up to 12 knots, and started steaming for home.

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27 February 2007

New Internationalist: Defending Our Oceans

From Adele, in the Stockholm office

And now for something completely different... While we wait with bated breath to see the outcome of the Nisshin Maru saga, I just wanted to prod you all gently to check out the very excellent Defending Our Oceans site that New Internationalist magazine has put together. No, this wasn't some expensive sponsorship deal, basically the co-editor was so inspired he thought this was an important issue to feature in the magazine. He says:

"New Internationalist usually takes care not to identify with any other organizations. But this is a bit different. Action is urgently needed. The magazine will have done one useful thing if it encourages you to sign up to the Greenpeace campaign."

I never thought I'd see a mainstream magazine with "More Marine Reserves Now!" on the cover, but hooray, it's happened!

Check out the special features here.

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Hourglass dolphin time

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

We've long left behind the serene beauty of the Ross Sea, and are now amidst the wildness of the Southern Ocean. Conditions are a little wilder than last night - as the Esperanza rolls from port to starboard and back, a few untethered items have been seen skating by. Sara is already forgoing her chair, preferring to work towards her "thighs of steel" by standing up at her desk.

Not much else has changed since yesterday - the Nisshin Maru and the rest of the whaling fleet are still strung out across the ocean, still ambling along at seven or eight knots. There's no sign of the fleet returning to whaling, we're pleased to see. Sorry, we're very pleased to see. We're escorting them out of the area, and we never want them back in the Southern Ocean again.

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Post webcam shots on flickr!

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

For all the webcam obsessives and flickr fans: You can now upload grabs from the webcam to a flickr group called Webcam Esperanza, started by Wavemaker, herself an occasional Esperanza web editor.

The idea is that whenever any of you Ocean Defenders spot something cool in the webcam, you can upload it to this flickr group, and share it with other people! Otherwise, the moment could be gone - forever. Hopefully there'll be some of the whaling fleet visible...

Why didn't we think of this before?

So, get right-clickin'...

The Esperanza's webcam »
Visit the Esperanza webcam pool »

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Download Southern Ocean wallpaper for your desktop

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Not that were't the type to wallow in honorifics, but the wonderful Daniel and the lovely Elaine have created a few desktop-wallpaper-type things for your computer.

And you can download them from here »

A'int we nice?

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26 February 2007

So, killer whales do attack human beings, don't they?

Posted by Nienke, on the Esperanza

"So, killer whales do attack human beings, don't they?"

Headphones on, drifting in a small inflatable, protected by a thin layer of rubber from an unimaginable amount of icy-water. With killer whales in it, very nearby. "I will protect you", Jetske tells me. I'm not convinced. Even if she was tall and heavy. How big is an orca? Up to nine metres. Weight? What was it... born 150kg in weight, an adult male weighs 5600kg. And then like... ten of them? Organized, intelligent, can easy adapt to its environment, so its habitat is all over the world's oceans. So, Jetske's weight, what would it be? Approximately 55kg? It doesn't sound very promising for us.

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Heading North with the Nisshin Maru

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

It's a fairly slack Southern Ocean this evening. We're out of the Ross Sea now, and heading north, with the whaling fleet strung out a mile or two away on our port side. They took off on Saturday night at a great rate - up to 14 knots. Now they're ambling along at 7 knots.

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25 February 2007

Media in a tangle

Posted by captain Karli, on the good ship Ezmerelda

One of the things that has struck me since we have been here, in the far reaches of the Southern Ocean, is just how confused the story gets by the time it gets back to land, and how many different versions there can be of the same story.

Some of this can be traced back to the tales being told by people who have a vested interest in the whaling industry, as Dave and Sara explained the other day in their somewhat more amusing blog, Sorry Mr. Inwood, could you say that again?. While it's definitely the game of the Institute of Cetacean Research (ICR) and their hired help to portray this whole situation as just a small glitch in their whaling season, in reality, and for those actually onboard the ships down here, it is not. There is a body on board a ship, on the way back to Japan as evidence of that.

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Meet the Japanese Fleet Fleet - the Nisshin Maru and its friends

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

With all the recent media coverage about the Japanese whaling fleet, it's easy to get confused about which whaling ship is which. So we've put together this useful guide. The Lovely Elaine (as she is now universally known) has put together a fantastic guide to the Japanese Government's whaling fleet currently in the Southern Ocean.

Don't be fooled by the word "RESEARCH" that's plastered over their vessels - that's just part of the "scientific whaling" whitewash used by the Institute of Cetacean Research. In reality, the Japanese government is pushing for a return to commercial whaling - and the "scientific whaling" fleet is at the vanguard of this push - they had planned to kill 945 whales this year for "research" purposes - then sell the meat.

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24 February 2007

Nisshin Maru to finally leave the Southern Ocean (and don't come back!)

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

At around 17:30 today, the expedition leader of the Japanese government's whaling fleet radioed, informing us that the Nisshin Maru - disabled nine days ago by fire - plans to start sailing in three hours. He also said that the whole fleet was currently being re-fuelled, in preparation for departure.

This is a relief - after nine long days, the whaling fleet is finally leaving the Ross Sea, and the unsullied environment of the Southern Ocean, and we're ready to escort the fleet out of Antarctic waters.

We're pretty unimpressed with how Japanese government officials in Tokyo - and their PR spindoctor in New Zealand - have done their damndest to trivialise the extent of what has truly been a serious situation here in the Ross Sea. Since the fire last Thursday, they've failed to show transparency - either with the rescue authorities or other governments, about the extent of the fire, as well as the risks both to human life and the Antarctic environment. They even publicly stated - a little too quickly - that they hoped to just keep on whaling!

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Nisshin Maru on the move

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

About an hour ago, the Nisshin Maru separated from the two ships she's been tethered to - the Oriental Bluebird and the Yushin Maru No.2. She steamed about 2 miles at about 12 knots, then stopped again, as has the whole fleet. Let's hope that with the Nisshin Maru moving under her own power, this is a sign that the whaling fleet is ready to leave. If it is, we believe that this should be the last time - ever - that the Japanese whaling fleet comes to the Southern Ocean.

P.S. - if the webcam gives the impression that the Nisshin Maru is moving, bear in mind that the Esperanza might be moving relative to it, and we might be moving the web camera to keep the Nisshin Maru in frame.

- Dave

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23 February 2007

And here with the weather...

Posted by Dave

And after the weather forecast, we have sports. Seriously though, the weather is on the downturn - the barometer has been at around 980 for several days, so no surprises there. The sky is grey, and overcast, with snow whipping horizontally across the deck. On board the Esperanza, the mood is good - in no small part helped by the delicious food from our cooks, Isha and Celeste.

It's now heading for nine days since the fire broke out on board the Nisshin Maru. By tomorrow morning, we'll have been with it for a week.

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The icy Earth from above

Posted by Sara, on the Esperanza

Every day since we made contact with the Nisshin Maru, our helicopter Tweety lifts off from the deck of the Esperanza and buzzes off into the distance to carry out an ice survey for us and for the disabled Japanese whaling fleet. Within seconds she is little more than a cheery red dot in the Antarctic sky.

Firstly, booted and survival-suited, it took a hefty shove from Hughie to even get me into Tweety, a not very dignified beginning, but our survival suits aren't built for agile movement - and more to the point neither am I!

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Letter to US Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice

Posted by Melanie, on the Esperanza

The U.S. is a signatory to the treaty that protects Antarctica, yet the U.S. State Department said today that it would leave the matter of the Nisshin Maru to the government of New Zealand. Melanie, our onboard U.S. campaigner on board, has put together this letter to send to the Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice. Are you from the U.S? Then send it? If not - maybe sent it anyway!

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22 February 2007

The daily ice report

Posted by Dave

The conditions in the Ross Sea are pretty good at the moment - dead calm but overcast and very cold. Our position didn't change majorly in the last 24 hours - just six miles to the north east, but Tweety was sent up again to check the ice. Right now, the ice is 10 miles to the east, with a thick edge, open behind, and then after 15 miles it starts getting heavy again. According to Zeger, the water is starting to freeze, and there's some fresh, small bits of ice in the water.

There wasn't much news from the Nisshin Maru today, despite what the ICR's Glenn Inwood would have you believe. They are still preparing the ship's accomodation, and still hope to leave using the ship's own engines.

More as we have it...

- Dave

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Ocean Defenders TV: Enough is Enough

Posted by Dave

Antarctica is the responsibility of all. Whaling in the Antarctic is a threat to all. This video says it all...

Watch Ocean Defenders TV »

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Sorry Mr. Inwood, could you say that again?

Posted by Dave and Sara, on the Esperanza

The beauty of bearing witness - one of Greenpeace's core principles - is that you can provide window onto the reality of what is right in front of you. In the last week, the difference between what we see and hear, here in the Ross Sea, and what we are "told" from land could not have been more stark.

Yesterday, Sakyo spoke to the fleet's expedition leader via radio, and asked him if the fleet were starting whaling again, that he'd heard this in the media. The reply was that there was still a lot of work to be done on the ship. They have managed to start the main engine, but the winch is broken down - due to oil pressure trouble, and the factory deck of the ship is taken apart. They have told us that they want to get across the line of 60 degrees south, and head north to Japan as soon as possible.

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Slideshow: Southern Beauty

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Here's a slideshow showing some of the nature and seascapes of the Southern Ocean. Some of these images, like the southern rightwhale dolphin, were shot north of the Antarctic Convergence, while others are very obviously in the depths of the Antarctic. The orca was seen within sight of the Nisshin Maru - so this should give you some idea of what may be under environmental threat in these waters.

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21 February 2007

Listening to what whales say

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Earlier on this expedition, we were getting some nasty comments posted to the blog about our alleged "sightseeing". To be honest, here in the Southern Ocean, it seems that every time you glance outside a porthole, something beautiful floats, flies or swims by. But there's plenty more going on below the surface too. Where were we earlier today, the Ross Sea was 400m deep down below - and you can bet, there's plenty happening down there too.

One of the advantages of being stuck here in the Ross Sea alongside the crippled Nisshin Maru is that it's given us some opportunities for research work. Yesterday, during a radio conversation with the whaling fleet, Sakyo mentioned that we had our boats in the water. The reply from the whaling fleet was, "look out for blue whales - there's some around". As blue whales are a protected species, we're assuming the fleet aren't interested in hunting them at this moment in time, but we found it to be rather amusing to be getting whale watching advice, given the source. It's not too late to turn the Nisshin Maru into a whale watching vessel...

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Icing In

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Today, the weather conditions have been more or less the same - but we had sunshine, which warmed things up a bit on deck. The ice, however, is on the move. Where we we were yesterday is now pretty iced up. The whaling fleet drifted 18 miles southovernight, which is kind of the wrong direction, from the point of view of escaping the Ross Sea. At 2000 hours, we were 13 miles west of where were 24 hours ago... and 13 miles closer to the Antarctic continent. To our east, the huge finger of ice is looming, moving ever northward. It really is time to get out the Nisshin Maru out of here!

- Dave

More on sea ice »
Photo and explanations of different sea ice states »

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20 February 2007

Ocean Defenders TV: Nisshin Maru report

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Sara, our on board media officer, reports on the situation around the Nisshin Maru, and speaks to our captain, Frank, to our helicopter pilot, Hughie and to our campaigners Melanie and Karl, about the deteriorating ice situation in the Ross Sea, and the environmental threat caused by the disabled whaling factory ship.

Watch Ocean Defenders TV »

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The Japanese government is playing Russian Roulette with the Antarctic

Posted by Melanie, on the Esperanza

This morning at 5:40am marked five days since the Nisshin Maru first sent out a mayday distress call. Since then, the ship has been sitting here, disabled, in the Ross Sea. We've has been on-scene with the Nisshin Maru for over three days to offer assistance, including towing the crippled whaling vessel north, out of the Antarctic. All of our offers to tow the vessel to safety have been refused by the Japanese authorities in Tokyo. We have been told that the whaling fleet will use its own vessels to tow the Nisshin Maru north, however, the Esperanza still remains the best-equipped ship for the job.

It's not just Greenpeace that's anxious for the Nisshin Maru to get a move on out of here. The New Zealand government has gone well beyond the bounds of normal diplomatic language to make the point. New Zealand Prime Minister Helen Clark is clearly losing patience and said to the Japanese government earlier this week: "My advice is if you can't see a way of getting the boat out of there without some help from Greenpeace or from somebody else, the world is going to be very upset if there is a spill in that area."

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Where is the Nisshin Maru?

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Over the last few days and weeks, we've been talking about mysterious places like the "Ross Sea" and the "Southern Ocean". These places are a long way from anywhere, so it's not surprising that many people don't have a great understanding of Antarctic geography. The lovely Elaine, currently in Sydney, has knocked together this ultra-cool interactive map showing just where the Nisshin Maru, the whaling fleet and the Esperanza are right now.

:

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19 February 2007

The key to ending whaling

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Jun Hoshikawa, a Japanese writer and translator, has published over 60 books. He took up the post as Executive Director for Greenpeace Japan 14 months ago. I've just been reading his explanation of what he believes to be the key to finally ending whaling: by changing the perceptions of the people of Japan.

"When I arrived at Greenpeace Japan a little over one year ago, my take on stopping the Japanese government's whaling program was that it is a lost cause and impossible to argue against - despite the fact I had been opposed to whaling since the issue was raised in the early 1970s."

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Japan, please accept the our offer to tow the Nisshin Maru!

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

As you know, the Esperanza is currently standing by the Japanese whaling factory ship Nisshin Maru, which was last week crippled by an accidental fire. It's currently without engine power in the Ross Sea, Antarctica. Oil and fuel on board the Nisshin Maru presents an immediate and unacceptable risk to the pristine Antarctic environment - and the ice and weather are closing in.

We've offered to tow the Nisshin Maru to safety. The Esperanza was constructed as a fire-fighting vessel and has towing capabilities. Captain Frank has ten years experience on a salvage tug.

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Still standing by but the clock is ticking

Posted by Melanie, on the Esperanza

It's now Monday afternoon and we've been with the Nisshin Maru for more than two days. Luckily the weather is holding - it's calm by Southern Ocean standards with light winds, relatively calm seas and this morning there was even a patch of blue sky here and there. But we are still at 73 degrees south latitude and it is getting late into February, which means the clock is ticking and at some point soon, this area will start freezing over in earnest.

There's pack ice 14 miles to the east of us and 20 miles to the southwest of us, and things can change so quickly here in terms of temperature and wind that ice conditions can change radically in a matter of hours.

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Chilly Monday on the Ross Sea

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Well, it's a chilly Monday morning here in the Ross Sea. The Esperanza is still standing by the broken-down Nisshin Maru, which was disabled by fire on Thursday. The Nisshin Maru drifted 31 nautical miles north overnight - away from the ice pack, but no farther away from the pristine west coast of the Ross Sea.

The other six ships in the whaling fleet are also here - the factory ship, the re-supply and refueling vessel Oriental Bluebird and three catcher boats. The two survey/sighting vessels, including the Kaiko Maru (the ship which issued a recent distress call) arrived early yesterday. On Saturday, the US Coast Guard vessel Polar Sea stopped by very briefly, but hasn't been seen since.

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18 February 2007

Arriving on scene with the whaling fleet

Posted by Melanie, on the Esperanza

At Saturday morning at 7am, I was in the bridge with my morning coffee, when third mate Zeger sighted through binoculars the Nisshin Maru and other vessels from the whaling fleet. As we got closer, we saw that the re-supply and re-fueling vessel Oriental bluebird was on one side of the disabled Nisshin Maru, while one of the catcher boats (the vessels with the harpoons the actually kill the whales) was on the other side.

Two other catcher boats were hovering near the Nisshin Maru. On our stern was the US Coast Guard icebreaker Polar Sea. The Polar Sea was doing just as we were: getting closer to the Nisshin Maru to assess the situation.

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17 February 2007

Condolences from the Esperanza

Posted by the crew of the Esperanza

We received a radio call this afternoon from the Yushin Maru. They told us that the body of the missing crewman, 27-year-old Kazutaka Makita had been recovered.

The crew of the Esperanza would like to offer our sympathies to Kazutaka Makita's wife and children, his family and friends, and to the crew of the Nisshin Maru. Our thoughts are with them all.

- The crew of the Esperanza

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16 February 2007

Esperanza arrives at the crippled Nisshin Maru

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

We sighted the Japanese government's whaling factory ship Nisshin Maru at about 07.00 (New Zealand daylight time) this morning. Two ships - the re-supply and re-fuelling vessel Oriental Bluebird and one of the harpoon, or catcher boats the Yushin Maru - are tied either side of the Nisshin Maru. Nearby are two more catcher boats. Standing off, some distance away is the US Coast Guard icebreaker Polar Sea - The Yushin Maru asked us for assistance in translating between them and the Polar Sea.

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Esperanza ready to tow the Nisshin Maru out of danger - and prevent environmental disaster

Posted by the crew of the Esperanza

Right now, the Esperanza is less than 24 hours sailing from the disabled whaling factory ship, Nisshin Maru. We've made a commitment to the fleet that we will assist the crew in any way possible, and make an environmental impact assessment if needed. One crewmember of the Nisshin Maru is still missing and it's reported in the media that the ship may be carrying approximately 1,000 tons of oil. The Nisshin Maru is also, apparently less than 100 nautical miles from the largest Adelie penguin colony in the world.

The Fisheries Agency of Japan has already refused help from us, labelling us "terrorists" - but the Esperanza is still continuing towards the stricken vessel.

The thing is - our first thoughts are for the missing crewman, as well as the rest of the people on board. We don't think that this is any time be to playing politics from behind a desk in Tokyo. We've got a human tragedy and a potential environmental disaster on our hands, so we have a moral obligation to act. Plus, the Japanese government has a legal obligation, under the Antarctic Treaty, for the Nisshin Maru to accept our help.

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15 February 2007

Distress call from the Nisshin Maru

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

The first thoughts of all of us on the Esperanza is for the crew of the Japanese whaling factory ship Nisshin Maru. We hope that news reports that one crew member is missing are incorrect and he or she is found safe and well.

At approximately 05.45 New Zealand time (NZDT) the Esperanza responded to a distress call from the Nisshin Maru.

We contacted the New Zealand Maritime Rescue Coordination Centre (MRCC), who gave the nature of the distress as a fire/explosion, and requested our assistance. We confirmed that the Esperanza would assist.

At 07.40 NZDT, New Zealand MRCC informed the Esperanza that we were no longer required. We have no details of the incident or what caused it.

We remain ready to assist with the emergency.

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What a special Valentine's day!

Posted by Sakyo, on the Esperanza

© Greenpeace / Jeremy Sutton-Hibbert

I'm happy to see that people all around the world expressed their love for Japan - my country, on Valentines day. However, the important thing is that Japanese people who received this message also should consider the message that 'whaling breaks our heart'

From my experience, growing up in Tokyo for 27 years, I've often heard "whaling is part of our culture, foreigners are trying to ruin our culture". Whenever anti-whaling voices are heard coming from outside of Japan, many Japanese people condemn them as being against our culture. But when I look at the reality of whaling in the Southern Ocean, it's very far from the version I've heard. If you actually study Japanese history, whaling in the Southern Ocean is not a traditional part of our culture.

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14 February 2007

Valentines Day: We love Japan - but whaling breaks our hearts

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

© Greenpeace/ Jeremy Sutton-Hibbert

Happy Valentines day from the crew of the Esperanza! Here here in the Southern Ocean it's been Valentine's Day for nearly 22 hours. In othe parts of the world, people are just waking up to the one day of the year dedicated to love. And today, in 28 different countries around the world, activists are taking to the streets to send a Valentine's Day message of love to Japan - but demanding the Japanese government puts an end to whaling in the Southern Ocean Whale Sanctuary.

It's already Valentine's Day in Tokyo too - where the "International Whaling Comission Normalization Meeting", is being held by the Japan government, supported by pro-whaling nations. A big valentine card card appeared outside, saying "Normalization Means Protection, Not Whaling" and activists presented St. Valentines Day whale-shaped chocolates to the pro-whaling delegates attending the meeting. Nice!

© Greenpeace/ Jeremy Sutton-Hibbert

There's been lots more happening - in Fiji, Australia and New Zealand, and even Ecuador, which had an early Valentines Day! Check out the photographs from St. Valentines Day whale activities around the world! »

Save some whales now!
Whale Love Wagon »

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13 February 2007

Peace versus violence

Posted by Isha, on the Esperanza

Isha sent me this blog yesterday. As I was editing reading it, the distress call came from the Kaiko Maru. When a distress call comes in a location as harsh as the Southern Ocean, you can't help but expect the worst. Fortunately, after the second distress call in a week, we didn't find ourselves having to search for people in the icy Antarctic waters. Isha's blog was certainly a calming influence while we waited for news. - Dave

In this world that we live in, violence is increasingly becoming the widest spoken language. The heart is silenced with voices of anger, frustration and hate. The heart functions on subtle vibrations... the vibrations of nature are the subtlest. Do we ever hear a flower bloom or leaves fall?

Violence begets nothing... it spreads only more pain and hate - only peace and love bring strength and tolerance, and this is what the heart of this planet is asking of us, and so few speak this language these days.

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Whaling Timeline

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

This is a chronology of whaling, adapted from "The Whaling Season: An Inside Account of the Struggle to Stop Commercial Whaling" by Kieran Mulvaney (Island Press, 2003). I read this excellent book recently, before I came on board. There's currently three copies doing the rounds of the Esperanza. Kieran was on board several Greenpeace anti-whaling expeditions, and manages to pack his personal experiences, detailed expedition logs and a detailed explanation of the complex mess that is whaling, as well as untangling the intricacies of the International Whaling Commission. This table is from the appendices of the The Whaling Season:

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Look in the mirror first

Posted by Sara, on the Esperanza

Okay, I have held back for long enough now. Greenpeace has made it very clear for years that we will not cooperate with Sea Shepherd because we don't agree with the tactics they employ. That is a position based on long held principles. We do not publicly criticize Sea Shepherd nor do we intend to, because that is also a principle we hold - we simply say that our focus is on the whaling issue and how to stop it, in the Southern Ocean, in the political arena and most importantly in Japan. Of course, not engaging in a slanging match always leaves one party open to more and more criticism. So be it. I have broad shoulders and if you want to criticise then go ahead. But look in the mirror first.

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12 February 2007

At the whaler's club

By Shane, in Tokyo to attend the IWC's "Normalisation" meeting

Here I am in Japan to attend a meeting organised by the Japanese Government. Over recent years, they have increasingly talked about the need for 'normalisation' of the International Whaling Commission (IWC). This is basically code for a return to commercial whaling. So this meeting is really about commercialisation, not normalisation.

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"Normalisation" isn't good for whales

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

This week the Japanese government will host a meeting of predominately pro-whaling International Whaling Commission (IWC) members in Tokyo.

The stated purpose of this meeting - which isn't part of the official Commission agenda, is to "normalize" the IWC. Almost without exception, pro-conservation members of the IWC have agreed not to attend this meeting, because it is expected that the Japanese government will use the occasion to claim support for a resumption of commercial whaling. Not a welcome thought.

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We condemn violence in the Southern Ocean

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

This afternoon the Esperanza received a distress call from the Japanese whaling fleet's unarmed sighting vessel, the Kaiko Maru.

The Esperanza offered immediate assistance, heading at full speed to their position.

According to the Rescue Coordination Centre of New Zealand, first reports stated the Kaiko Maru was "under attack." Later reports claimed a collision between the Sea Shepherd vessel Robert Hunter and the Kaiko Maru, with the Robert Hunter receiving a hole in the hull above the water line and the Kaiko Maru suffering unspecified damage to its propeller.

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11 February 2007

Spread the word and end whaling now

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

We're down here in the Southern Ocean, doing our bit to stop whales from being killed -but we need your help. While it's important to stop individual whales from being killed, we really need whaling to end forever.

We need you guys to help us. We need you to help us communicate that whaling is still going on - but that it's possible to end it. Got a campaign idea? Post it on whales.greenpeace.org, and run your own online campaign!

But there's more...

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10 February 2007

Sightseeing?

Posted by Hughie, on the Esperanza

Sightseeing? Yes, and some of the sights we see aren't too nice, but whilst we are enroute to intercept the Japanese whaling fleet, we document these sights. What they depict is global changes that will affect every living thing on this planet - including you.

During the transit we utilise this time by gathering other information and compiling reports to people involved in other matter than just whaling.

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It happened again

Posted by Daniel, on the Esperanza

It happened again, I'm a very lucky guy.

Last night I won 2nd prize in Contemporary Issues at the 2007 World Press Photo. It's the most prestigious award for photojournalists. This year professional photographers presented over 78,000 images.

Last year I got a World Press award while I was working in the Amazon, but this year I am on a Greenpeace ship near Antarctica. At least here I can receive emails and phone calls, in the Amazon I was out of reach for several days while the organization of the World Press tried to locate me.

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9 February 2007

Whaling: The International Situation

Posted by Karli, on the Esperanza

Almost every single person on this ship comes from a country that says they are opposed to whaling. But saying you are opposed to whaling, and then doing something about it are two different things; there is a whole spectrum of action and inaction that lies between. So, while we are here amongst the icebergs of the Southern Ocean, preparing to take direct action to save whales from Japanese Government's whaling fleet's deadly harpoons... what is going on in the rest of the world?

From one International Whaling Commission (IWC) meeting to the next, the Japanese government works away at recruiting new countries to vote pro-whaling... However, although the IWC started life as an organisation that represented fifteen whaling nations in the divvying up of the oceans' whales and tried to keep things from getting too far out of hand - the IWC has now changed. Over time, nations that wanted to see whales protected began joining, giving strength and a voice for the whales. Those years saw the introduction of the moratorium on commercial whaling and the establishment of the Southern Ocean Whale Sanctuary. But is that momentum now slipping away, and the majority eroding?

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The Esperanza in the Ice

Posted by Maaike, on the Esperanza

Yesterday, my afternoon watch (I'm on watch from 1200 till 1600 hours and then again from 0000 till 0400 hr) was an interesting one. When I got on the bridge, we were surrounded by ice. Not icebergs, but small bits of ice that you can sail through at slow speed. In circumstances like these you go to hand steering, because the autopilot won't react quick enough.

Hand steering is nice, because you feel much better what the Esperanza does and how it reacts (or not, at slow speed). Also, you change speed all time to adjust to the amount of ice, since some areas the ice is more packed then other areas. Some of the bigger bits that you should avoid, you can't avoid in time. That makes noise and it makes the ship shiver, but it doesn't do any damage (as long as your speed isn't too much of course). The captain, Frank, was also on the bridge while sailing through the ice, so I could learn about the conditions. This wasn't extreme yet, but already you can anticipate and try to find a path to sail through. No pressure though, because there was no chance of getting stuck here. Even if the wind increased very rapidly, we would have been able to be get out of the ice soon enough. It was a very nice experience.

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Missing Sea Shepherd Activists Found

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Update: 04:40 CET 16:40 NZ Good news - the missing Sea Shepherd people have been rescued. Now we're no longer steaming to help with the rescue, we will return to our original mission - to find and stop the Japanese fleet from whaling.

Earlier:
Some serious news - two crew from the Sea Shepherd Conservation Society ships have been reported missing in the Southern Ocean, in foggy conditions. Sea Shepherd had found the Japanese whaling fleet earlier today, near the Balleny Islands.

Our primary concern - and hope - is that the two missing people will be found safe and well - and as quickly as possible. We're still well out of range, about a days sail away, but we're currently steaming towards to co-ordinates given to us by the Sea Shepherd ship, Robert Hunter.

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8 February 2007

The "Isle of the Dead" Iceberg

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

We spent today pushing through more of the Southern Ocean's ice in our search for the whaling fleet. The sea looks very odd here - dead calm, and because it's so close to freezing, it has a slick, oily consistency. The loose ice that floats almost stationery bumps against the Esperanza's hull as we push forward. Sitting in the office, you can hear the crunch and the impact as another piece of ice gets pulled aside.

In mid-afternoon, a very strange looking iceberg appears on the horizon. Even as it was still in the distance, it instantly reminded me of two paintings by Swiss artists; Isle of the Dead by Arnold Böcklin, and one called Hommage a Bocklin by H.R. Giger (the guy who designed Alien).

The 'berg was massive colosseum with walls and columns of stunning blue and white ice rising up out of a massive base. Inside, the greeny-blue water was thrashing around, though the overall structure barely seemed to be moving.

It was quite simply one of the most amazing things I've ever seen.

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ODTV: Heading South

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

The temperature drops and the anticipation rises as the Esperanza makes her way to the Southern Ocean Whale Sanctuary.Ok, it's a little late as we're already now in the Southern Ocean Whale Sanctuary - but meet Hernan, Hughie, and Tweety! Watch Ocean Defenders TV »

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Now is not the time to whale watch

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7 February 2007

Ice

Posted by Melanie, on the Esperanza

Last night at around 11pm, the ship's engines were turned off to avoid having to navigate through ice at night. We spent the night quietly rocking back and forth, and as a result, I had my best night of sleep since leaving Auckland. I didn't wake up or move all night long, as evidenced by the neatness of the bedding when I woke up in the morning. I don't think I moved at all, which was a lovely change from the tossing, turning and rolling around in my bunk that usually takes place.

This morning when I got up, I could see the ice edge about half a mile from the ship. For me, that's better than coffee or anything else for jump starting a morning. Nothing (except for an ice sheet or a high latitude glacier) can beat the polar pack ice. I've been obsessed with it (and all things Arctic) since my first trip to the Alaskan arctic on the Arctic Sunrise in 1997. Since then I've buried my nose in books, research papers, news articles and just about anything I can find about the Arctic, as well as the people who have explored both poles in the past few centuries. It's fascinating stuff, and it can capture your imagination like nothing else. Up until now my obsession has focused on the Arctic since I'd traveled there, worked there and had a first hand "relationship" with it. I never thought I'd ever make it to this part of the world. Now I can feel my obsession shifting to include all things Antarctic, which means a trip to the book store when I get home and another pile of polar books amassing next to the bed.

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Birthday Bergs

Posted by Karli, on the Esperanza

Last year I celebrated my birthday with friends and family with a sunny barbecue beside a river in Golden Bay, New Zealand. This year I celebrated it with the Greenpeace family "Esperanza" in the Southern Ocean. What a world away! I woke to the scraping and crunching of the ship moving slowly through pack ice, looking out the porthole to see that the fiesty sea of the past week had been replaced by the most tranquil surface imaginable.

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Penguins Past the Porthole

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

This morning's wake up call interrupts a deep deep pit of sleep. I don't know even who did the wake up call, but they mention something about "ice".

"Ice? What are they talking about? It's summer in New Zealand. Oh hang on. It's winter in Ireland. Wait... where am I?"

I fight my way to the surface, open my eyes. Sitting up I glimpsed ice through the porthole. I can hear more of it clunking against the Esperanza's hull.

"Good grief, I'm in the flippin' Antarctic!"

I stumble out on deck, bleary-eyed, swaddled in warm clothing, and hanging on to a cup of Earl Grey. The shipped is fogged in and surrounded by brash ice. Here and there a seal - trying to get the last bit of a lie-in on a comfortable chunk - wakes up and glances at the big blue ship, as if to say "what the hell is that?", then dozes off again. A few penguins stand flapping their wings at each other, looking like they've missed their bus to work.

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6 February 2007

The Iceberg Cometh

Posted by Sara, on the Esperanza

It has been 48 hours of firsts for me.

There can be few more incredible ways to start your day than with your first iceberg. But, despite it being nearly a mile long and over 50 meters high out of the water I confess that to my sleepy six-thirty-in-the-morning eyes, it was a tiny bit disappointing that it wasn't pointy and alpine, like the ones in the storybooks. But a few slugs of hot tea later, there was no escaping the majesty of this piece of Antarctica as it floated slowly away, decaying with each crashing wave that pounded against its almost sheer sides.

So after considerable teasing from