So when you look down at the ice and water, you are seeing a bed of white slush, with beautiful ice sculptures rising out of it. Then, as the ship moves the ice, the most wonderful blues are revealed, just below the surface, that is the underwater section of the growlers and bergy bits, and then the Ross Sea reveals itself in all it's inky black splendour... I could watch this forever.

As we are making our way through the ice we are also of course seal spotting - these critters sleep late into the day on their chosen piece of ice. As we moved past them, the first one just seemed completely unperturbed, sleeping on while this giant blue ship with a giant rainbow on the front of it pulls by. But eventually he roused himself and growled at us, pretended we weren't really there, had a scratch, growled some more, hurumphed around a little and then slipped quietly off into the water. For such large blubbery beasts they sure can move on the ice.

So by this stage I am near to frozen, but I just can't get enough of it.

We continued on through the pack ice, moving to come out the other side, we saw another snoozing seal, who decided to get up and put on a show for us. It was incredible. Of course there was the pre-requisite growling. I'm not sure if seals are sort of the same as dogs, as in showing submissiveness by rolling on their backs but I think they might be. This one did so many twists and turns and rolled over several times exposing his or her belly for a rub. Scratched it's own belly - oh so cute - but then it started to move back and forward barking at us, then would stop and while looking straight at us push it's head deep into the snow... wait a bit and poke it's head back out - can you imagine - I was in fits! It did this a few times and would come out of it with snow covering his nose and above his eyes. They actually do this to make their beds I think. It puts their body below the wind with heir backs on the same level as the top of the ice. So he would hunker down into this newly created bed and then get up - tell us to go away again and then back to bed.

As we moved off we were at the edge of the ice pack and the cry goes up - "ORCAS!"

And all the while sooty albatross (chocolate brown) and snow petrels (pure white) are soaring around us. What can I say - this place is truly amazing.

Later, after I had finished work and showered, I headed back up to the bow. The sunset was so incredibly beautiful - it was like god was saying thank-you in the sky. And the incredible thing is, that sunsets last forever here. I mean we literally were on the bow for hours drinking it all in.

- Celeste