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28 February 2007
The Japanese whaling fleet crosses the line
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
Esperanza GPS after crossing 60° south
© Greenpeace/Beltra
The Esperanza just escorted the Japanese whaling fleet, including the factory ship Nisshin Maru, over the 60° latitude line - this means that they've now officially left Antarctic waters, and the northernmost limit of where their whaling takes place.
No more Southern Ocean whales will die from grenade-tipped harpoons this season, and the threat to the Antarctic environment by the fire-damaged Nisshin Maru has now been averted. Earlier today, the fleet pushed its speed up to 12 knots, and started steaming for home.
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27 February 2007
New Internationalist: Defending Our Oceans
From Adele, in the Stockholm office
And now for something completely different... While we wait with bated breath to see the outcome of the Nisshin Maru saga, I just wanted to prod you all gently to check out the very excellent Defending Our Oceans site that New Internationalist magazine has put together. No, this wasn't some expensive sponsorship deal, basically the co-editor was so inspired he thought this was an important issue to feature in the magazine. He says:"New Internationalist usually takes care not to identify with any other organizations. But this is a bit different. Action is urgently needed. The magazine will have done one useful thing if it encourages you to sign up to the Greenpeace campaign."
I never thought I'd see a mainstream magazine with "More Marine Reserves Now!" on the cover, but hooray, it's happened!
Check out the special features here.
Hourglass dolphin time
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
Hourglass dolphins
© Greenpeace, photographed by Dave Walsh
We've long left behind the serene beauty of the Ross Sea, and are now amidst the wildness of the Southern Ocean. Conditions are a little wilder than last night - as the Esperanza rolls from port to starboard and back, a few untethered items have been seen skating by. Sara is already forgoing her chair, preferring to work towards her "thighs of steel" by standing up at her desk.
Not much else has changed since yesterday - the Nisshin Maru and the rest of the whaling fleet are still strung out across the ocean, still ambling along at seven or eight knots. There's no sign of the fleet returning to whaling, we're pleased to see. Sorry, we're very pleased to see. We're escorting them out of the area, and we never want them back in the Southern Ocean again.
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Post webcam shots on flickr!
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
webcam
For all the webcam obsessives and flickr fans: You can now upload grabs from the webcam to a flickr group called Webcam Esperanza, started by Wavemaker, herself an occasional Esperanza web editor.
The idea is that whenever any of you Ocean Defenders spot something cool in the webcam, you can upload it to this flickr group, and share it with other people! Otherwise, the moment could be gone - forever. Hopefully there'll be some of the whaling fleet visible...
Why didn't we think of this before?
So, get right-clickin'...
The Esperanza's webcam »
Visit the Esperanza webcam pool »
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Download Southern Ocean wallpaper for your desktop
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
Penguins
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Not that were't the type to wallow in honorifics, but the wonderful Daniel and the lovely Elaine have created a few desktop-wallpaper-type things for your computer.
And you can download them from here »
A'int we nice?
26 February 2007
So, killer whales do attack human beings, don't they?
Posted by Nienke, on the Esperanza
Orca, killer whale
© Greenpeace/Beltra
"So, killer whales do attack human beings, don't they?"
Headphones on, drifting in a small inflatable, protected by a thin layer of rubber from an unimaginable amount of icy-water. With killer whales in it, very nearby. "I will protect you", Jetske tells me. I'm not convinced. Even if she was tall and heavy. How big is an orca? Up to nine metres. Weight? What was it... born 150kg in weight, an adult male weighs 5600kg. And then like... ten of them? Organized, intelligent, can easy adapt to its environment, so its habitat is all over the world's oceans. So, Jetske's weight, what would it be? Approximately 55kg? It doesn't sound very promising for us.
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Heading North with the Nisshin Maru
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
It's a fairly slack Southern Ocean this evening. We're out of the Ross Sea now, and heading north, with the whaling fleet strung out a mile or two away on our port side. They took off on Saturday night at a great rate - up to 14 knots. Now they're ambling along at 7 knots.
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25 February 2007
Media in a tangle
Posted by captain Karli, on the good ship Ezmerelda
Karli inside the bridge of the Esperanza
© Greenpeace/Beltra
One of the things that has struck me since we have been here, in the far reaches of the Southern Ocean, is just how confused the story gets by the time it gets back to land, and how many different versions there can be of the same story.
Some of this can be traced back to the tales being told by people who have a vested interest in the whaling industry, as Dave and Sara explained the other day in their somewhat more amusing blog, Sorry Mr. Inwood, could you say that again?. While it's definitely the game of the Institute of Cetacean Research (ICR) and their hired help to portray this whole situation as just a small glitch in their whaling season, in reality, and for those actually onboard the ships down here, it is not. There is a body on board a ship, on the way back to Japan as evidence of that.
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Meet the Japanese Fleet Fleet - the Nisshin Maru and its friends
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
Whaling catcher boat Yushin Maru
© Greenpeace/Beltra
With all the recent media coverage about the Japanese whaling fleet, it's easy to get confused about which whaling ship is which. So we've put together this useful guide. The Lovely Elaine (as she is now universally known) has put together a fantastic guide to the Japanese Government's whaling fleet currently in the Southern Ocean.
Don't be fooled by the word "RESEARCH" that's plastered over their vessels - that's just part of the "scientific whaling" whitewash used by the Institute of Cetacean Research. In reality, the Japanese government is pushing for a return to commercial whaling - and the "scientific whaling" fleet is at the vanguard of this push - they had planned to kill 945 whales this year for "research" purposes - then sell the meat.
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24 February 2007
Nisshin Maru to finally leave the Southern Ocean (and don't come back!)
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
The Nisshin Maru and friends
from other whaling ships
© Greenpeace/Beltra
At around 17:30 today, the expedition leader of the Japanese government's whaling fleet radioed, informing us that the Nisshin Maru - disabled nine days ago by fire - plans to start sailing in three hours. He also said that the whole fleet was currently being re-fuelled, in preparation for departure.
This is a relief - after nine long days, the whaling fleet is finally leaving the Ross Sea, and the unsullied environment of the Southern Ocean, and we're ready to escort the fleet out of Antarctic waters.
We're pretty unimpressed with how Japanese government officials in Tokyo - and their PR spindoctor in New Zealand - have done their damndest to trivialise the extent of what has truly been a serious situation here in the Ross Sea. Since the fire last Thursday, they've failed to show transparency - either with the rescue authorities or other governments, about the extent of the fire, as well as the risks both to human life and the Antarctic environment. They even publicly stated - a little too quickly - that they hoped to just keep on whaling!
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Nisshin Maru on the move
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
About an hour ago, the Nisshin Maru separated from the two ships she's been tethered to - the Oriental Bluebird and the Yushin Maru No.2. She steamed about 2 miles at about 12 knots, then stopped again, as has the whole fleet. Let's hope that with the Nisshin Maru moving under her own power, this is a sign that the whaling fleet is ready to leave. If it is, we believe that this should be the last time - ever - that the Japanese whaling fleet comes to the Southern Ocean.
P.S. - if the webcam gives the impression that the Nisshin Maru is moving, bear in mind that the Esperanza might be moving relative to it, and we might be moving the web camera to keep the Nisshin Maru in frame.
- Dave
23 February 2007
And here with the weather...
Posted by Dave
Snow and poor visibility....
© Greenpeace
And after the weather forecast, we have sports. Seriously though, the weather is on the downturn - the barometer has been at around 980 for several days, so no surprises there. The sky is grey, and overcast, with snow whipping horizontally across the deck. On board the Esperanza, the mood is good - in no small part helped by the delicious food from our cooks, Isha and Celeste.
It's now heading for nine days since the fire broke out on board the Nisshin Maru. By tomorrow morning, we'll have been with it for a week.
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The icy Earth from above
Posted by Sara, on the Esperanza
Iceberg, seen from Tweety
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Every day since we made contact with the Nisshin Maru, our helicopter Tweety lifts off from the deck of the Esperanza and buzzes off into the distance to carry out an ice survey for us and for the disabled Japanese whaling fleet. Within seconds she is little more than a cheery red dot in the Antarctic sky.
Firstly, booted and survival-suited, it took a hefty shove from Hughie to even get me into Tweety, a not very dignified beginning, but our survival suits aren't built for agile movement - and more to the point neither am I!
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Letter to US Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice
Posted by Melanie, on the Esperanza
Antarctic Iceberg
© Greenpeace/Beltra
The U.S. is a signatory to the treaty that protects Antarctica, yet the U.S. State Department said today that it would leave the matter of the Nisshin Maru to the government of New Zealand. Melanie, our onboard U.S. campaigner on board, has put together this letter to send to the Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice. Are you from the U.S? Then send it? If not - maybe sent it anyway!
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22 February 2007
The daily ice report
Posted by Dave
© Greenpeace/Beltra
The conditions in the Ross Sea are pretty good at the moment - dead calm but overcast and very cold. Our position didn't change majorly in the last 24 hours - just six miles to the north east, but Tweety was sent up again to check the ice. Right now, the ice is 10 miles to the east, with a thick edge, open behind, and then after 15 miles it starts getting heavy again. According to Zeger, the water is starting to freeze, and there's some fresh, small bits of ice in the water.
There wasn't much news from the Nisshin Maru today, despite what the ICR's Glenn Inwood would have you believe. They are still preparing the ship's accomodation, and still hope to leave using the ship's own engines.
More as we have it...
- Dave
Ocean Defenders TV: Enough is Enough
Posted by Dave
The Esperanza and the whaling fleet
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Antarctica is the responsibility of all. Whaling in the Antarctic is a threat to all. This video says it all...
Sorry Mr. Inwood, could you say that again?
Posted by Dave and Sara, on the Esperanza
Left the Nisshin Maru,
and right, the Oriental Bluebird
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Yesterday, Sakyo spoke to the fleet's expedition leader via radio, and asked him if the fleet were starting whaling again, that he'd heard this in the media. The reply was that there was still a lot of work to be done on the ship. They have managed to start the main engine, but the winch is broken down - due to oil pressure trouble, and the factory deck of the ship is taken apart. They have told us that they want to get across the line of 60 degrees south, and head north to Japan as soon as possible.
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Slideshow: Southern Beauty
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
Crabeater Seal
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Here's a slideshow showing some of the nature and seascapes of the Southern Ocean. Some of these images, like the southern rightwhale dolphin, were shot north of the Antarctic Convergence, while others are very obviously in the depths of the Antarctic. The orca was seen within sight of the Nisshin Maru - so this should give you some idea of what may be under environmental threat in these waters.
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21 February 2007
Listening to what whales say
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
Orca, or Killer Whale
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Earlier on this expedition, we were getting some nasty comments posted to the blog about our alleged "sightseeing". To be honest, here in the Southern Ocean, it seems that every time you glance outside a porthole, something beautiful floats, flies or swims by. But there's plenty more going on below the surface too. Where were we earlier today, the Ross Sea was 400m deep down below - and you can bet, there's plenty happening down there too.
One of the advantages of being stuck here in the Ross Sea alongside the crippled Nisshin Maru is that it's given us some opportunities for research work. Yesterday, during a radio conversation with the whaling fleet, Sakyo mentioned that we had our boats in the water. The reply from the whaling fleet was, "look out for blue whales - there's some around". As blue whales are a protected species, we're assuming the fleet aren't interested in hunting them at this moment in time, but we found it to be rather amusing to be getting whale watching advice, given the source. It's not too late to turn the Nisshin Maru into a whale watching vessel...
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Icing In
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
Pancake ice in the Ross Sea
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Today, the weather conditions have been more or less the same - but we had sunshine, which warmed things up a bit on deck. The ice, however, is on the move. Where we we were yesterday is now pretty iced up. The whaling fleet drifted 18 miles southovernight, which is kind of the wrong direction, from the point of view of escaping the Ross Sea. At 2000 hours, we were 13 miles west of where were 24 hours ago... and 13 miles closer to the Antarctic continent. To our east, the huge finger of ice is looming, moving ever northward. It really is time to get out the Nisshin Maru out of here!
- Dave
More on sea ice »
Photo and explanations of different sea ice states »
20 February 2007
Ocean Defenders TV: Nisshin Maru report
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
Sara, our on board media officer, reports on the situation around the Nisshin Maru, and speaks to our captain, Frank, to our helicopter pilot, Hughie and to our campaigners Melanie and Karl, about the deteriorating ice situation in the Ross Sea, and the environmental threat caused by the disabled whaling factory ship.
The Japanese government is playing Russian Roulette with the Antarctic
Posted by Melanie, on the Esperanza
Adelie Penguin
© Greenpeace/Beltra
This morning at 5:40am marked five days since the Nisshin Maru first sent out a mayday distress call. Since then, the ship has been sitting here, disabled, in the Ross Sea. We've has been on-scene with the Nisshin Maru for over three days to offer assistance, including towing the crippled whaling vessel north, out of the Antarctic. All of our offers to tow the vessel to safety have been refused by the Japanese authorities in Tokyo. We have been told that the whaling fleet will use its own vessels to tow the Nisshin Maru north, however, the Esperanza still remains the best-equipped ship for the job.
It's not just Greenpeace that's anxious for the Nisshin Maru to get a move on out of here. The New Zealand government has gone well beyond the bounds of normal diplomatic language to make the point. New Zealand Prime Minister Helen Clark is clearly losing patience and said to the Japanese government earlier this week: "My advice is if you can't see a way of getting the boat out of there without some help from Greenpeace or from somebody else, the world is going to be very upset if there is a spill in that area."
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Where is the Nisshin Maru?
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
Over the last few days and weeks, we've been talking about mysterious places like the "Ross Sea" and the "Southern Ocean". These places are a long way from anywhere, so it's not surprising that many people don't have a great understanding of Antarctic geography. The lovely Elaine, currently in Sydney, has knocked together this ultra-cool interactive map showing just where the Nisshin Maru, the whaling fleet and the Esperanza are right now.:
19 February 2007
The key to ending whaling
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
"When I arrived at Greenpeace Japan a little over one year ago, my take on stopping the Japanese government's whaling program was that it is a lost cause and impossible to argue against - despite the fact I had been opposed to whaling since the issue was raised in the early 1970s."
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Japan, please accept the our offer to tow the Nisshin Maru!
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
The Nisshin Maru with other whaling vessels
© Greenpeace/Beltra
As you know, the Esperanza is currently standing by the Japanese whaling factory ship Nisshin Maru, which was last week crippled by an accidental fire. It's currently without engine power in the Ross Sea, Antarctica. Oil and fuel on board the Nisshin Maru presents an immediate and unacceptable risk to the pristine Antarctic environment - and the ice and weather are closing in.
We've offered to tow the Nisshin Maru to safety. The Esperanza was constructed as a fire-fighting vessel and has towing capabilities. Captain Frank has ten years experience on a salvage tug.
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Still standing by but the clock is ticking
Posted by Melanie, on the Esperanza
The ice pack 14 miles from
the Nisshin Maru © Greenpeace/Beltra
It's now Monday afternoon and we've been with the Nisshin Maru for more than two days. Luckily the weather is holding - it's calm by Southern Ocean standards with light winds, relatively calm seas and this morning there was even a patch of blue sky here and there. But we are still at 73 degrees south latitude and it is getting late into February, which means the clock is ticking and at some point soon, this area will start freezing over in earnest.
There's pack ice 14 miles to the east of us and 20 miles to the southwest of us, and things can change so quickly here in terms of temperature and wind that ice conditions can change radically in a matter of hours.
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Chilly Monday on the Ross Sea
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
The Nisshin Maru and Oriental Bluebird
near Antarctic ice
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Well, it's a chilly Monday morning here in the Ross Sea. The Esperanza is still standing by the broken-down Nisshin Maru, which was disabled by fire on Thursday. The Nisshin Maru drifted 31 nautical miles north overnight - away from the ice pack, but no farther away from the pristine west coast of the Ross Sea.
The other six ships in the whaling fleet are also here - the factory ship, the re-supply and refueling vessel Oriental Bluebird and three catcher boats. The two survey/sighting vessels, including the Kaiko Maru (the ship which issued a recent distress call) arrived early yesterday. On Saturday, the US Coast Guard vessel Polar Sea stopped by very briefly, but hasn't been seen since.
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18 February 2007
Arriving on scene with the whaling fleet
Posted by Melanie, on the Esperanza
The Nisshin Maru and Oriental Bluebird
near Antarctic ice
© Greenpeace/Beltra
At Saturday morning at 7am, I was in the bridge with my morning coffee, when third mate Zeger sighted through binoculars the Nisshin Maru and other vessels from the whaling fleet. As we got closer, we saw that the re-supply and re-fueling vessel Oriental bluebird was on one side of the disabled Nisshin Maru, while one of the catcher boats (the vessels with the harpoons the actually kill the whales) was on the other side.
Two other catcher boats were hovering near the Nisshin Maru. On our stern was the US Coast Guard icebreaker Polar Sea. The Polar Sea was doing just as we were: getting closer to the Nisshin Maru to assess the situation.
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17 February 2007
Anything but Normal
Photo from the Club de Jóvenes Ambientalistas,
which sparked a scandal in Nicaragua
By Shane, in Tokyo, after the "Normalisation" Meeting
Not only was the "normalisation meeting" pretty odd, the fallout afterwards has been anything but normal.
The two main newspapers in Nicaragua yesterday carried the scandal that the "representative" of Nicaragua at the meeting did not have government authorisation to attend. As El Nuevo Diario reports, Miguel Marenco was officially on leave from his job at the Fisheries and Agriculture Department, but instead appeared in Tokyo representing his country and arguing in favour of whaling.
The group Club de Jóvenes Ambientalistas (rough translation: Club of Environmentalist Young People) obtained the above photograph of Marenco from the meeting in Tokyo and revealed his presence to the government, sparking the scandal.
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Condolences from the Esperanza
Posted by the crew of the Esperanza
We received a radio call this afternoon from the Yushin Maru. They told us that the body of the missing crewman, 27-year-old Kazutaka Makita had been recovered.
The crew of the Esperanza would like to offer our sympathies to Kazutaka Makita's wife and children, his family and friends, and to the crew of the Nisshin Maru. Our thoughts are with them all.
- The crew of the Esperanza
16 February 2007
Esperanza arrives at the crippled Nisshin Maru
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
The crippled Nisshin Maru and other whaling vessels
© Greenpeace/Beltra
We sighted the Japanese government's whaling factory ship Nisshin Maru at about 07.00 (New Zealand daylight time) this morning. Two ships - the re-supply and re-fuelling vessel Oriental Bluebird and one of the harpoon, or catcher boats the Yushin Maru - are tied either side of the Nisshin Maru. Nearby are two more catcher boats. Standing off, some distance away is the US Coast Guard icebreaker Polar Sea - The Yushin Maru asked us for assistance in translating between them and the Polar Sea.
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Esperanza ready to tow the Nisshin Maru out of danger - and prevent environmental disaster
Posted by the crew of the Esperanza
The Esperanza in pack ice
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Right now, the Esperanza is less than 24 hours sailing from the disabled whaling factory ship, Nisshin Maru. We've made a commitment to the fleet that we will assist the crew in any way possible, and make an environmental impact assessment if needed. One crewmember of the Nisshin Maru is still missing and it's reported in the media that the ship may be carrying approximately 1,000 tons of oil. The Nisshin Maru is also, apparently less than 100 nautical miles from the largest Adelie penguin colony in the world.
The Fisheries Agency of Japan has already refused help from us, labelling us "terrorists" - but the Esperanza is still continuing towards the stricken vessel.
The thing is - our first thoughts are for the missing crewman, as well as the rest of the people on board. We don't think that this is any time be to playing politics from behind a desk in Tokyo. We've got a human tragedy and a potential environmental disaster on our hands, so we have a moral obligation to act. Plus, the Japanese government has a legal obligation, under the Antarctic Treaty, for the Nisshin Maru to accept our help.
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15 February 2007
"Normalising" the IWC means Business as Usual
By Shane, relieved that the Normalisation meeting is over, in Tokyo
Surreptitious photo by Shane
After three days of meetings in Tokyo, the pro-whaling members of the International Whaling Commission have concluded that the best plan to move forward is to keep hunting more whales.
The purpose of the meeting was to talk about how to ‘normalize’ the IWC. Before the meeting, we said that meant ‘commercial whaling’ in the eyes of this crowd, and it seems we were right.
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Distress call from the Nisshin Maru
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
The first thoughts of all of us on the Esperanza is for the crew of the Japanese whaling factory ship Nisshin Maru. We hope that news reports that one crew member is missing are incorrect and he or she is found safe and well.At approximately 05.45 New Zealand time (NZDT) the Esperanza responded to a distress call from the Nisshin Maru.
We contacted the New Zealand Maritime Rescue Coordination Centre (MRCC), who gave the nature of the distress as a fire/explosion, and requested our assistance. We confirmed that the Esperanza would assist.
At 07.40 NZDT, New Zealand MRCC informed the Esperanza that we were no longer required. We have no details of the incident or what caused it.
We remain ready to assist with the emergency.
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What a special Valentine's day!
Posted by Sakyo, on the Esperanza
© Greenpeace / Jeremy Sutton-Hibbert
I'm happy to see that people all around the world expressed their love for Japan - my country, on Valentines day. However, the important thing is that Japanese people who received this message also should consider the message that 'whaling breaks our heart'
From my experience, growing up in Tokyo for 27 years, I've often heard "whaling is part of our culture, foreigners are trying to ruin our culture". Whenever anti-whaling voices are heard coming from outside of Japan, many Japanese people condemn them as being against our culture. But when I look at the reality of whaling in the Southern Ocean, it's very far from the version I've heard. If you actually study Japanese history, whaling in the Southern Ocean is not a traditional part of our culture.
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14 February 2007
Valentines Day: We love Japan - but whaling breaks our hearts
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
© Greenpeace/ Jeremy Sutton-Hibbert
Happy Valentines day from the crew of the Esperanza! Here here in the Southern Ocean it's been Valentine's Day for nearly 22 hours. In othe parts of the world, people are just waking up to the one day of the year dedicated to love. And today, in 28 different countries around the world, activists are taking to the streets to send a Valentine's Day message of love to Japan - but demanding the Japanese government puts an end to whaling in the Southern Ocean Whale Sanctuary.
It's already Valentine's Day in Tokyo too - where the "International Whaling Comission Normalization Meeting", is being held by the Japan government, supported by pro-whaling nations. A big valentine card card appeared outside, saying "Normalization Means Protection, Not Whaling" and activists presented St. Valentines Day whale-shaped chocolates to the pro-whaling delegates attending the meeting. Nice!
© Greenpeace/ Jeremy Sutton-Hibbert
There's been lots more happening - in Fiji, Australia and New Zealand, and even Ecuador, which had an early Valentines Day! Check out the photographs from St. Valentines Day whale activities around the world! »
Save some whales now!
Whale Love Wagon »
Mannes - Chief Engineer
© Greenpeace/Baumann
Netherlands
Hi, I'm Mannes.
I am from Oudeschip, the Netherlands... yes, another gloggy on the ship. I have worked for Greenpeace for over six years now... a period that is engraved in my memory.
Before Greenpeace I was sailing commercially . Six years ago I applied for a job on a factory fishing ship, but in the weekend before the job-interview I visited my local pub and ran into my cousin, who had worked for Greenpeacefor nine years. Of course he disagreed with my future plans, and I knew he would spend the rest of the evening buying me drinks, trying to change my mind ("good luck", I thought). After the cleaning lights in the pub switched on, we continued our "conversation" at his place looking at old Greenpeace videos and photos. After sunrise I walked out of his house, in one hand a Greenpeace flag and in the other a Greenpeace sticker... three weeks later I joined the MV Greenpeace.
Five months after joining I was involved in a climbing action that put my face in a lot of newspapers. This news also reached my home town, and after the minister of our village church announced in public that he was proud to see me taking action for a better world... I knew I had to watch my step in the future (ha ha).
Sometimes you are just not aware of what's happening... like how we are draining our world of its natural resources.
I think... would I have ended up on that factory fishing ship? I would have been shocked bywitnessing the amount of by-catch and the destruction it leaves behind. Raising awareness is for that reason one aspect I really like about Greenpeace. The more people that know what is going on, the more people that can form their opinion and hopefully do something with it.
So here I am back in the Southern Ocean. Last year I was also part of the Southern Ocean expedition on the Esperanza and I was really hoping that it would not be necessary to get back here to raise attention on the issue again. I will not get into details here and now - I don't want to make this a sad story.
For me the region of Antarctica is defenitely the most beautiful place in the world, and I feel privileged to be here - yeah, it is cold, but really amazing. Soon I will have my thousandth day on this ship and every day there is something else to see, waves as big as a house, totems in Alaska, an erupting volcano in the Philipines, dolphins, whales, icebergs, the most beautiful sunrises and sunsets, flying fish, places where there is no darkness, the Southern Cross, the Northern star, Albatrosses... too much to write down.
Before I am Getting all romantic here I better quit.
Thanks for your interest and support - keep visiting our sites!
Gegroet en het beste, Mannes
13 February 2007
The odd, yet strangely boring, Normalisation Meeting
© Jeremy Sutton-Hibbert
By Shane, on Day 1 of the IWC "Normalisation Meeting" in Tokyo
So today was the first day of the Japanese Government hosted ‘Normalisation’ meeting, intended to find a pathway to resume commercial whaling.As I said yesterday, it was definitely a gathering of the countries who support whaling. Of course, I should have known that when you have a meeting of people that all agree with each other it is going to get boring, but this was worse than I could have imagined!
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Peace versus violence
Posted by Isha, on the Esperanza
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Isha sent me this blog yesterday. As I was editing reading it, the distress call came from the Kaiko Maru. When a distress call comes in a location as harsh as the Southern Ocean, you can't help but expect the worst. Fortunately, after the second distress call in a week, we didn't find ourselves having to search for people in the icy Antarctic waters. Isha's blog was certainly a calming influence while we waited for news. - Dave
In this world that we live in, violence is increasingly becoming the widest spoken language. The heart is silenced with voices of anger, frustration and hate. The heart functions on subtle vibrations... the vibrations of nature are the subtlest. Do we ever hear a flower bloom or leaves fall?
Violence begets nothing... it spreads only more pain and hate - only peace and love bring strength and tolerance, and this is what the heart of this planet is asking of us, and so few speak this language these days.
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Whaling Timeline
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
This is a chronology of whaling, adapted from "The Whaling Season: An Inside Account of the Struggle to Stop Commercial Whaling" by Kieran Mulvaney (Island Press, 2003). I read this excellent book recently, before I came on board. There's currently three copies doing the rounds of the Esperanza. Kieran was on board several Greenpeace anti-whaling expeditions, and manages to pack his personal experiences, detailed expedition logs and a detailed explanation of the complex mess that is whaling, as well as untangling the intricacies of the International Whaling Commission. This table is from the appendices of the The Whaling Season:Continue reading... | Permalink | Comments (3)
Look in the mirror first
Posted by Sara, on the Esperanza
Apply pressure at the right time...
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Okay, I have held back for long enough now. Greenpeace has made it very clear for years that we will not cooperate with Sea Shepherd because we don't agree with the tactics they employ. That is a position based on long held principles. We do not publicly criticize Sea Shepherd nor do we intend to, because that is also a principle we hold - we simply say that our focus is on the whaling issue and how to stop it, in the Southern Ocean, in the political arena and most importantly in Japan. Of course, not engaging in a slanging match always leaves one party open to more and more criticism. So be it. I have broad shoulders and if you want to criticise then go ahead. But look in the mirror first.
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12 February 2007
Frank - Captain
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Netherlands
Hi - my name is Frank and I am the new Captain of the ship. Not that it is my first trip on the Esperanza, but it always exciting to get back to her, especially when the ship is doing a year long ocean campaign, which is my favorite issue to work on.
I am from the Netherlands and first went to sea as a ship's boy when I was 17 years old to see what it was like - I've been sailing ever since. I came to Greenpeace having had direct experience of the oil industry - towing oil rigs from Borneo to the Nigerian river delta and bringing flareblooms to oil rigs in the North Sea. I've now worked on numerous Greenpeace campaigns around the world; from climate campaign work in the Arctic Ocean, to surveying the Persian Gulf after the "oil war" in Kuwait, and anti-whaling work in the Southern Oceans.
- Frank
At the whaler's club
Shinjuku, Tokyo, near the Greenpeace office
By Shane, in Tokyo to attend the IWC's "Normalisation" meeting
Here I am in Japan to attend a meeting organised by the Japanese Government. Over recent years, they have increasingly talked about the need for 'normalisation' of the International Whaling Commission (IWC). This is basically code for a return to commercial whaling. So this meeting is really about commercialisation, not normalisation.
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"Normalisation" isn't good for whales
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
This week the Japanese government will host a meeting of predominately pro-whaling International Whaling Commission (IWC) members in Tokyo.The stated purpose of this meeting - which isn't part of the official Commission agenda, is to "normalize" the IWC. Almost without exception, pro-conservation members of the IWC have agreed not to attend this meeting, because it is expected that the Japanese government will use the occasion to claim support for a resumption of commercial whaling. Not a welcome thought.
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Helena - Deckhand
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Australia
Hi, my name is Helena. I usually have a hard time with profiles, especially when having to fill out forms that ask me things like my address - when I've been travelling for four years - my occupation, which varies - for now I am a deckhand/sailor/activist) and nationality - born in Brazil, Kiwi mother, Spanish father and grew up in Rio de Janeiro and Sydney, three passports. So I feel right at home on a Greenpeace ship.
I have been involved with Greenpeace on and off over the last six years - both in offices as a "webby" and on the ships as a "deckie". The first time I set foot on a Greenpeace ship was the Arctic Sunrise when it returned to Melbourne after the whaling campaign in 2000/2001. Someone had donated a huge pink whale to the Sydney office - we used it as our mascot to display the message "end Japanese whaling" - and took it on its first ten-hour road trip from Sydney, receiving many curious looks and hoots in the process. We arrived at the Sunrise at sunrise and I did my first watch. I walked around the ship and imagined myself sailing with Greenpeace someday, somewhere, somehow. I really am gobsmacked that six years later, I am now in the Southern Ocean, on board a Greenpeace ship.
In April 2004 I joined the Esperanza as a volunteer deckhand, at the end of that trip we went to Iceland to push the point that whale watching was more viable than a return to whaling. It was a spectacular place - we went to a town that once used to be a whaling town but had converted the whaling boats to whale watching boats. Way to go! It was there I saw my first blue whale. Wow! I have said a lot of wows over the last four years but I think the last few days I have said wow with every second breath!
I have sailed many miles (both on Greenpeace ships and sailing yachts) experiencing some incredible beauty, but also some devastation - the worst is that which is imposed unnecessarily by greed and short-sightedness. The sea will forever seduce me, it is such an integral part of, not only my life, but of all of us.
One last thing.
Death is a powerful force, and we never know how it will affect us - but all of us at some point, if not already, will be faced with it.
It is a difficult and sad process but it can also be a gift - to make us realise the importance of living and to appreciate what we have. This time last year I was carrying my fathers ashes from Chile to Sydney. He had died when a storm hit while trying to summit a volcano called Lanin, straddling the border between Argentina and Chile, at the beginning of the Patagonia region. After a grueling ten days we found his body, and were able to find a peace - a peace that came knowing he had died following his passion and at the hand of Nature.
The location was breathtaking - when I stood at the base of the volcano I was overwhelmed with gratitude for having had a father that had been so enthralled by, and engaged with the natural world. A father who not only brought the world into our living room but also took us to it... I vividly remember our camping trips (every holiday we would go), him showing me the stars, studying atlases and the world map on the wall, speaking four languages and reading national geographic articles together, and watching David Attenborough religiously.
He was obsessed with the forces that shaped our planet and especially volcanos. It's sad I can't share this with him but I realised when I saw my first iceberg that he is with me on this journey. Its also kinda special that my grandmother is called Esperanza - so I have a definite attachment to this ship. She also loved the sea and mountains. I owe it to both of them to try to protect what they taught me to love.
If you have kids - then don't forget to take then outside, climb trees with them, show then the stars, and take then sailing or hiking.
It is one thing is for nature to take away life - the other is for someone to chose to take it away. I want this to place to be a sanctuary where whales are left to fend for themselves and not hunted.
We need to preserve our natural heritage - and not allow commercial interests to be so blind and selfish. We need to look around once in a while, appreciate what we have, but also what we are allowing, by inaction, to be take away from us.
- Helena
We condemn violence in the Southern Ocean
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
This afternoon the Esperanza received a distress call from the Japanese whaling fleet's unarmed sighting vessel, the Kaiko Maru.The Esperanza offered immediate assistance, heading at full speed to their position.
According to the Rescue Coordination Centre of New Zealand, first reports stated the Kaiko Maru was "under attack." Later reports claimed a collision between the Sea Shepherd vessel Robert Hunter and the Kaiko Maru, with the Robert Hunter receiving a hole in the hull above the water line and the Kaiko Maru suffering unspecified damage to its propeller.
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Logi - Deckhand
© Greenpeace/Beltra
New Zealand
Kia ora, I'm Logan and I am from Aotearoa (New Zealand). I've been involved with Greenpeace since 2000, and this is the third time that I've been honoured with the opportunity to be part of an expedition on a Greenpeace ship. The other times were both on the Rainbow Warrior in the Tasman sea working on the bottom trawling campaign.
As we travel along in the Southern Ocean with beautiful icebergs outside my cabin porthole, I realise that missing the heart of summer back home is worth it. Fairly soon we'll be in amongst the whaling fleet and that both excites and saddens me. Knowing that we few are out here representing so many people from around the world is so empowering and it drives me to do the best that I can to help save as many whales as possible. I'm looking forward to doing my bit when the action begins. Kia Kaha to you all.
- Logi
11 February 2007
Spread the word and end whaling now
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
We're down here in the Southern Ocean, doing our bit to stop whales from being killed -but we need your help. While it's important to stop individual whales from being killed, we really need whaling to end forever.We need you guys to help us. We need you to help us communicate that whaling is still going on - but that it's possible to end it. Got a campaign idea? Post it on whales.greenpeace.org, and run your own online campaign!
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10 February 2007
Hughie - Chopper Pilot
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Scotland
Hi, my name is Hughie, and I am the helicopter pilot.
I am from the Isle of Mull, in Scotland, but now live on the mainland near Inverness. I was educated, for the most part, on the Island, where I left school at 14. Since then I have gained various degrees in business management and aviation.
My involvement with Greenpeace has been a life enhancing experience over the last 16+ years that I have worked for them. Travelling to many remote areas all over the world, and witnessing the individual and corporate destruction of our planet. Flying over the visible land areas that have been destroyed is a privilege that is given to few. With a dedicated film team, we endeavour to capture the images to relay them to the world. When viewed as a photo, a lot is lost. This is no fault of the camera crew, but the fact that you cannot envisage the magnitude of the damage. Places that come to mind are Patagonia, the Amazon rain forest, and Alaska.
The helicopter is a Hughes 500d. It is small (4 people), fast (130kt), and manoeuvrable. On certain campaigns it is invaluable. This year we were in Greenland, documenting glacial melting, and were privileged to have two scientists from Maine with us to conduct the survey. By being able to land right on the top of the calving face of these huge ice flows, and with the scientists being able to place their equipment in a situation that has never been done before, they were able to gather information that has lead to groundbreaking scientific papers. They have previously conducted these surveys working with government bodies, but their conclusion was that we offered a more flexible and professional platform than they had previously encountered. Thank you Gordon and Leigh.
This is a common role for the heli, being used to gain access to inaccessible territory, and gathering images that cannot otherwise be got. She is also used in many action situations to gather images, and as a safety back up to monitor situations. When in remote areas it is a vital link should anybody need serious medical attention. This is not a privilege that we reserve for ourselves, as we have taken many people from remote areas to our own hospital on the ship.
When I do not work for Greenpeace my time is divided between my family, and delivering small aircraft for clients between Europe / Africa and the USA / Canada. My main hobby at home is building Land Rovers and competing in 4x4 off road competitions.
Prior to working for Greenpeace I have worked on trawlers, owned a trucking company, and a forest harvesting company - poacher turned gamekeeper ?? I don't think so, but I do have an insight into how people 'on the other side' think, and that, to me, is important.
Sometimes you have to think of the implications of your actions very carefully. Are they going to get to the corporation, or simply mess up a lot of hard working people in a small community? It is a difficult roll to play but with the enthusiasm of young people and the cynicism of us older ones, we do, at the end of the day, make a unique team of dedicated people.
- Hughie
Sightseeing?
Posted by Hughie, on the Esperanza
The Esperanza from the air
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Sightseeing? Yes, and some of the sights we see aren't too nice, but whilst we are enroute to intercept the Japanese whaling fleet, we document these sights. What they depict is global changes that will affect every living thing on this planet - including you.
During the transit we utilise this time by gathering other information and compiling reports to people involved in other matter than just whaling.
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Pep - Chief Mate
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Spain
My name is Pep and I'm from Spain. I'm a sailor, I like my job, the sea, the sailor life. Half of the year I'm at sea, the other half on land on vacations, less if I'm run out of money. I started to work in GP in 2002, I was Captain on a 20 m sailing ship called Zorba, that was managed by GP Spain. We where doing an Educational Project in Balearic Islands, Spain. Since Zorba I come to sail on Greenpeace International ships, I have done 5 trips as Chief Mate on the three ships. That has been a good time too.
It happened again
Posted by Daniel, on the Esperanza
© Greenpeace/Beltra
It happened again, I'm a very lucky guy.
Last night I won 2nd prize in Contemporary Issues at the 2007 World Press Photo. It's the most prestigious award for photojournalists. This year professional photographers presented over 78,000 images.
Last year I got a World Press award while I was working in the Amazon, but this year I am on a Greenpeace ship near Antarctica. At least here I can receive emails and phone calls, in the Amazon I was out of reach for several days while the organization of the World Press tried to locate me.
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Hans - ICT Officer
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Netherlands
My name is Hans, and I am happy to be part for the 5th time as part of an international team of Greenpeace crew sailing to Antarctica to o stop the whale hunt. I have been working with various Greenpeace campaigns since 1990, like the nuclear testing in Moruroa, the Brent Spar, the Amazon campaign and the Mediterranean campaign. We must make it clear to the world that we should not sacrifice whales for money. A small group of people can still make a difference, it really does matter how you live. We will stop whaling, but only if we do not give up. We will win the whaling cause and equally important, we will inspire people that you can change a part of the world. By changing a part, you change it all.
It does matter.
- Hans
9 February 2007
Whaling: The International Situation
Posted by Karli, on the Esperanza
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Almost every single person on this ship comes from a country that says they are opposed to whaling. But saying you are opposed to whaling, and then doing something about it are two different things; there is a whole spectrum of action and inaction that lies between. So, while we are here amongst the icebergs of the Southern Ocean, preparing to take direct action to save whales from Japanese Government's whaling fleet's deadly harpoons... what is going on in the rest of the world?
From one International Whaling Commission (IWC) meeting to the next, the Japanese government works away at recruiting new countries to vote pro-whaling... However, although the IWC started life as an organisation that represented fifteen whaling nations in the divvying up of the oceans' whales and tried to keep things from getting too far out of hand - the IWC has now changed. Over time, nations that wanted to see whales protected began joining, giving strength and a voice for the whales. Those years saw the introduction of the moratorium on commercial whaling and the establishment of the Southern Ocean Whale Sanctuary. But is that momentum now slipping away, and the majority eroding?
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The Esperanza in the Ice
Posted by Maaike, on the Esperanza
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Yesterday, my afternoon watch (I'm on watch from 1200 till 1600 hours and then again from 0000 till 0400 hr) was an interesting one. When I got on the bridge, we were surrounded by ice. Not icebergs, but small bits of ice that you can sail through at slow speed. In circumstances like these you go to hand steering, because the autopilot won't react quick enough.
Hand steering is nice, because you feel much better what the Esperanza does and how it reacts (or not, at slow speed). Also, you change speed all time to adjust to the amount of ice, since some areas the ice is more packed then other areas. Some of the bigger bits that you should avoid, you can't avoid in time. That makes noise and it makes the ship shiver, but it doesn't do any damage (as long as your speed isn't too much of course). The captain, Frank, was also on the bridge while sailing through the ice, so I could learn about the conditions. This wasn't extreme yet, but already you can anticipate and try to find a path to sail through. No pressure though, because there was no chance of getting stuck here. Even if the wind increased very rapidly, we would have been able to be get out of the ice soon enough. It was a very nice experience.
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Missing Sea Shepherd Activists Found
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
Update: 04:40 CET 16:40 NZ Good news - the missing Sea Shepherd people have been rescued. Now we're no longer steaming to help with the rescue, we will return to our original mission - to find and stop the Japanese fleet from whaling.Earlier:
Some serious news - two crew from the Sea Shepherd Conservation Society ships have been reported missing in the Southern Ocean, in foggy conditions. Sea Shepherd had found the Japanese whaling fleet earlier today, near the Balleny Islands.
Our primary concern - and hope - is that the two missing people will be found safe and well - and as quickly as possible. We're still well out of range, about a days sail away, but we're currently steaming towards to co-ordinates given to us by the Sea Shepherd ship, Robert Hunter.
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8 February 2007
The "Isle of the Dead" Iceberg
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
Tweety and the iceberg
© Greenpeace/Beltra
We spent today pushing through more of the Southern Ocean's ice in our search for the whaling fleet. The sea looks very odd here - dead calm, and because it's so close to freezing, it has a slick, oily consistency. The loose ice that floats almost stationery bumps against the Esperanza's hull as we push forward. Sitting in the office, you can hear the crunch and the impact as another piece of ice gets pulled aside.
In mid-afternoon, a very strange looking iceberg appears on the horizon. Even as it was still in the distance, it instantly reminded me of two paintings by Swiss artists; Isle of the Dead by Arnold Böcklin, and one called Hommage a Bocklin by H.R. Giger (the guy who designed Alien).
The 'berg was massive colosseum with walls and columns of stunning blue and white ice rising up out of a massive base. Inside, the greeny-blue water was thrashing around, though the overall structure barely seemed to be moving.
It was quite simply one of the most amazing things I've ever seen.
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Maaike - 2nd mate
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Netherlands
Hi, I'm Maaike.
About ten years ago I joined Greenpeace Netherlands as a volunteer activist. I was studying biology. Basically I joined every action I could. Through the Dutch action team I got on board of the ships as a volunteer deckhand and one thing lead to another. Now I sail as second mate on the Esperanza.
My last trip was in 2005; during this trip we worked in the North Sea on the bycatch campaign, then against deep sea trawling in the northern Atlantic. It's shocking to see how much bycatch goes over the side, from small crabs to dolphins, to creatures from the deep sea I've never seen before.
After that trip I had a break from Greenpeace. I do that once in a while. I sailed as mate on a coaster (small cargo ship) delivering general cargo in north western Europe. I enjoy this kind of work, it gives me the chance to look from a distance at work I do for Greenpeace. Somehow that makes me more motivated on future trips; which is the reason I alternate Greenpeace work with other (non-NGO) work.
After sailing on that coaster I wanted to do another trip on the Esperanza, but a challenging opportunity came up: ships co-ordination for a windmill-park that was being build in the North Sea. A job ashore, but working with ships and renewable energy! I took that change and it became a very interesting summer.
So now I'm back on the Esperanza. It's very good to be back at sea. You only know how much you missed it when you're actually sailing again. After the transit through the Pacific, we've been in Auckland for about two weeks to prepare the ship for Antarctica. I really enjoyed these dynamics, lots of people and lots of work. Very busy time!
This is a trip with a lot of "firsts": first transit, first time crossing the equator (meeting Neptune, before reaching Auckland), first time in Antarctica, also first time whaling campaign, icebergs and live penguins.
So here we are, in a big ocean, looking for the Japanese whaling fleet. The crew is very motivated and determined to find them. Still, it's a challenge of course! I hope that with our actions and demonstrations we can make a difference in the awareness of the people in Japan, make them more conscious of the fact that there government allows whaling in a sanctuary. And of course to have influence on governments world wide, so they won't vote for whaling during the IWC this year.
- Maaike
Celeste - Assistant Cook
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Australia
Wow - I cannot believe the beauty of the Southern Ocean. The elegance of the albatrosses and petrels in any weather. Seeing seals and penguins swimming past the ship and humpback whales frolicking around an iceberg. Can you imagine? And the ocean itself is amazing - never have I seen such colours anywhere else. The blues, the greens - they are indescribable. I feel insignificant here but I am also over-awed on a constant basis.
But it is a hostile place for humans and if I had my greatest wish, it's a place where we would not come, it is enough to know it is here. I'd been told this by people who have been here before but never really agreed - now I feel it in my bones. But we have to come because the Japanese government continues to send its whaling fleet to the Southern Ocean Whale Sanctuary and the Australian government, like so many others, continues to do nothing about it.
This is my first time here, and my second onboard the Espy as assistant cook. I cook with Isha and I try to keep the stores (huge grocery cupboards) in order - not an easy task when we are being tossed around in 12 metre seas! Apart from exploding yoghurt we have had no great mishaps so far! And that is a good thing because we have to keep the crew healthy and well fed, ready to put themselves on the line with the Japanese whalers. It is definitely an interesting task to prepare a meal for 38 while rolling 30 degrees in each direction! You have to laugh at what goes on in the galley under those conditions - like cookies that I am aiming into the oven flying off the tray and through the air, winding up metres away in with the boiling eggs! But we did wind up with about 70 chocolate chip cookies for morning tea.
So in the weeks ahead I know I will take in the beauty of this place as much as I possibly can, and I know that I will see my first whale killed, and my second, and my third. But I also have the opportunity to be part of an amazing crew that are here to stop whales being killed - and I will do my best to see that happen.
- Celeste
ODTV: Heading South
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
Now is not the time to whale watch
7 February 2007
Ice
Posted by Melanie, on the Esperanza
Penguin on pack ice
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Last night at around 11pm, the ship's engines were turned off to avoid having to navigate through ice at night. We spent the night quietly rocking back and forth, and as a result, I had my best night of sleep since leaving Auckland. I didn't wake up or move all night long, as evidenced by the neatness of the bedding when I woke up in the morning. I don't think I moved at all, which was a lovely change from the tossing, turning and rolling around in my bunk that usually takes place.
This morning when I got up, I could see the ice edge about half a mile from the ship. For me, that's better than coffee or anything else for jump starting a morning. Nothing (except for an ice sheet or a high latitude glacier) can beat the polar pack ice. I've been obsessed with it (and all things Arctic) since my first trip to the Alaskan arctic on the Arctic Sunrise in 1997. Since then I've buried my nose in books, research papers, news articles and just about anything I can find about the Arctic, as well as the people who have explored both poles in the past few centuries. It's fascinating stuff, and it can capture your imagination like nothing else. Up until now my obsession has focused on the Arctic since I'd traveled there, worked there and had a first hand "relationship" with it. I never thought I'd ever make it to this part of the world. Now I can feel my obsession shifting to include all things Antarctic, which means a trip to the book store when I get home and another pile of polar books amassing next to the bed.
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Birthday Bergs
Posted by Karli, on the Esperanza
Karli's birthday iceberg
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Last year I celebrated my birthday with friends and family with a sunny barbecue beside a river in Golden Bay, New Zealand. This year I celebrated it with the Greenpeace family "Esperanza" in the Southern Ocean. What a world away! I woke to the scraping and crunching of the ship moving slowly through pack ice, looking out the porthole to see that the fiesty sea of the past week had been replaced by the most tranquil surface imaginable.
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Penguins Past the Porthole
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
The Esperanza in pack ice
© Greenpeace/Beltra
This morning's wake up call interrupts a deep deep pit of sleep. I don't know even who did the wake up call, but they mention something about "ice".
"Ice? What are they talking about? It's summer in New Zealand. Oh hang on. It's winter in Ireland. Wait... where am I?"
I fight my way to the surface, open my eyes. Sitting up I glimpsed ice through the porthole. I can hear more of it clunking against the Esperanza's hull.
"Good grief, I'm in the flippin' Antarctic!"
I stumble out on deck, bleary-eyed, swaddled in warm clothing, and hanging on to a cup of Earl Grey. The shipped is fogged in and surrounded by brash ice. Here and there a seal - trying to get the last bit of a lie-in on a comfortable chunk - wakes up and glances at the big blue ship, as if to say "what the hell is that?", then dozes off again. A few penguins stand flapping their wings at each other, looking like they've missed their bus to work.
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Freddy - 2nd engineer
Freddy
Mar del Plata, Argentina
I came to the Greenpeace ships on March 19th 200,2 to the Arctic Sunrise when she was moored in Melbourne, Australia. Before that I worked for years for a nasty oil tanker company. The tanker I was due to join was delayed and while waiting I met, by coincidence, a schoolmate I hadn't seen for years who was sailing with Greenpeace. To keep it short, when the tanker company called to tell me the oil tanker had arrived I told them I wouldn't embark because I was joining a Greenpeace ship. They didn't like it.
Living on a GP ship is like living in a floating Babel Tower where you see people from all around the globe working as a team, but at the same time keeping their own culture or whatever predominant culture they have left at home. Listening to three or four different languages at the same time in the messroom is quite a common thing, together with long discussions on the etymology of local bad words and their literal meaning in English: Did you know that when an Argentinian drops badly a hammer on her/his finger they will yell "parrot's pussy!" instead of a sh** or a fu**?... and I really don´t want to go into the etymology on this (well, not now).
Last year I was onboard my beloved Arctic Sunrise when she was down in the Whale Sanctuary chasing whalers together with the Esperanza. This year the experience promises to be less shaky, as I'm onboard the last one, hoping we find these supposed researchers and show their illegitimate activities to the majority of the people of the world.
- Freddy
Nienke - Deckhand/Medic
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Netherlands
There was that unexpected phonecall; "Hey, like to come with Greenpeace to the Southern Oceans as a medic for three months? Departure in 4 weeks". Well, there's no way to resist an offer like that! After finishing my medical studies and working in a hospital for a year, Greenpeace just came my way and seems to fit very well! Since I've grown up I've spent a lot of time on sailing ships, both recreationally and professionally, working as a deckhand. Sailing, working as a medic and taking care of the environment at the same time, it just seems the perfect job for me. And then travelling to such beautiful, extreme areas, sharing experiences and working with an international crew!
So, now I'm going for the second time to the Southern Oceans, after working part of the year in another hospital, while living in Amsterdam. At the ship my work is most of the time deckwork, but the "hospital" also needs to be ready for all kind of smaller and bigger accidents and illnesses; cuts, infections, tooth problems etc. Doing a small crew training again turns out to be functional and hilarious as well, practicing transferring " victims" on a stretcher through narrow steep alleyways... You think you know what to expect, but the ocean always seems different, although it still is a lot of water... While being smashed around during big storms on a rolling and pitching ship, it's sometimes a bit of a question as to I'm here, but the view of the ice, penguins and albatrosses afterwards makes it all worth while! And of course the whales swimming by, quiet, peaceful, curious! Hopefully this campaign will be successful, the Southern Oceans and the whales protected without the need of any more special campaigns and expeditions!
- Nienke
Penny - Bosun
© Greenpeace/Beltra
UK
Arti - Video
© Greenpeace/Beltra
Argentina
Hi, my name is Arti, I'm from Gualeguaychu, a city 200 km far from Buenos Aires in Argentina. I've been working for Greenpeace for three years, doing different commercials, TV spots, documentaries and visual graphics for the Argentine Greenpeace TV. My job on the Esperanza is to do all (editing, visual graphics and music too) the web videos that appear on the IGO web, all that are performed in the ship, also I'm the only man who has the knowledges of the Manga whale's movements!
I'm here because I'm working for Greenpeace International, for this project. For me this is a very special ocassion to know some great places, and also to be part of this tremendous campaign. I might say that is being hard for me living on board the ship, cause the shaking (during bad weather) is so strong and doesn't stop! But all the good things in life cost a huge sacrifice!
See u soon!
Arti's weblog: www.artipost.com.ar/antarti
6 February 2007
The Iceberg Cometh
Posted by Sara, on the Esperanza
Humpback whale fluke
© Greenpeace/Beltra
It has been 48 hours of firsts for me.
There can be few more incredible ways to start your day than with your first iceberg. But, despite it being nearly a mile long and over 50 meters high out of the water I confess that to my sleepy six-thirty-in-the-morning eyes, it was a tiny bit disappointing that it wasn't pointy and alpine, like the ones in the storybooks. But a few slugs of hot tea later, there was no escaping the majesty of this piece of Antarctica as it floated slowly away, decaying with each crashing wave that pounded against its almost sheer sides.
So after considerable teasing from the rest of the crew as they gathered on the bridge or stood out in the icy blasts to watch it pass by, Neil explained to me that the pointy ones only come when parts have sheared off the great hunks like the one on our starboard side and then turn over in the water.
He promised I would be the first he called when a pointy one came into sight.
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Rick - Boat Mechanic/Driver
© Greenpeace/Beltra
USA
I grew up in the state of Michigan, near Detroit. I was probably about 10 years old when I saw my first penguin at the city zoo. I always felt sad about seeing the animals in captivity. Yesterday I saw wild penguins for the first time, heading south like us. This trip will have many firsts for me. This is my first time south of the Equator, across the Date Line, sailing on a Greenpeace ship, and maneuvering boats near the pointy end of an explosive harpoon.
What isn't new to me is Greenpeace U.S.'s RHIB boat the Hamilton Billy Greene. I have been on it for about 200 of its 430 hours of operation, most of it spent in South-Eastern Alaska for the Tongass Forest campaign. This past summer I dedicated about three weeks preparing the boat for this trip back to the Southern Ocean. It sustained significant damage last year and required several weld repairs to the hull. I have great respect for this boat and would like to thank Greenpeace for entrusting me with its care and allowing me accompany the Billy Green and the extraordinary crew of the Esperanza on this expedition.
© Greenpeace/Davison
I expect this trip to be filled with extremes. Weather, life, land and seascapes like nowhere else on Earth, and witnessing some of its most magnificent animals senselessly killed in a most horrific way. I try to imagine what I'm in for, but I'm not sure its possible.
Whales deserve to be left to live their lives in peace. Their ancestors decided to return to the sea 50 million years ago, and it was a good decision until humans learned to hunt them with modern technology. All that's left in any number is the relatively small minke, and that's only because it was ignored while the larger species were decimated.
I would like to thank everyone that has taken the time to read this, and especially those of you that have taken the next step of trying to stop this crime against nature. Everything is appreciated, your time and attention, letters and phone calls to decision makers, public protest and silent prayers.
I would also thank friends and family for teaching me the skills that I will rely on now, sending me off with all their love and inspiration, in short making this trip possible. I look forward to seeing you all soon.
The story of the Billy Greene »
- Rick
Luke - Assistant Engineer
© Greenpeace/Beltra
United Kingdom
I have been working on Greenpeace ships for about six or seven years. It all started when I spent six months working in a ship yard on the conversion of the Esperanza. The first time I ever went to sea was on her maiden voyage, sea trials in fact. It was in the North Sea, and there was a storm. I was sick as a dog. Since then I have managed to find some sea legs, which came in handy on last years trip down south, when we went though some pretty horrific, yet awesome seas. The Southern Ocean is an incredible place to go, nature in its least diluted form. Violent and without mercy, yet full of life and beauty. Its also a fair price to pay to lay eyes on the wonder of Antarctica.
A lot of my childhood inspiration for ecology came from early campaigns against whaling. Its such an emotive issue after all. But it does seem strange, and very sad, that at the age of 30 I have to journey so far to try and protect creatures and areas that my parents generation were already trying to save right back in the day. I hope my kids don t have the same situation with climate change, although i can't say I'm too optimistic.
On board I work in the engine room and like to give a hand fixing up the inflatables. I have great colleagues, all of us from different countries and cultures. This is the only job i ever had that made me want to get out of bed in the morning, (although I don t see why it has to be quite so early!). No two days are ever the same down below, always something to fix or improve, or some crisis to avert in the nick of time. I also get out and about in the boats when the need arises, and know my way around deck because I used to sail as a deckhand.
Going to sea is an amazing experience, one that changes your perspective on life and the earth. Its completely addictive, and yet so hard to verbalize to those who haven't had the opportunity. I just wish that we were here to document amazing advances in marine conservation, rather than having to fight for the very concept.
- Luke
5 February 2007
Sorry isn't enough
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
Pitching and rolling, last year's video and our first iceberg
Posted by Melanie, on the Esperanza
Iceberg
© Greenpeace/Beltra
On Sunday the ship started to roll and pitch again. It started at 4am, or at least that's the time that the movement woke me up from a sound sleep and kept me up for the rest of the night. The wind and waves increased for much of the morning so that by 11am, the ship was being pummeled by 10m/33ft swells coming from the starboard side, and the wind was regularly clocking in at the high 40 knot range with gusts into the 50s.
A lot of us were in the bridge hanging on to railings or permanently mounted objects, leaning to the right and then shifting to the left as the ship rolled 30 degrees. I've finally gotten over my ridiculous fear that somehow the ship will capsize when it rolls, so I quite enjoyed it.
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Japanese lesson
Posted by Sakyo, on the Esperanza
Here in the ship, some of the crew are really keen to speak Japanese. During the last expedition, there was a Japanese class held by the translator, John.Some crew still have textbooks and are trying to remember and practice some words they learned. Which is sweet but sometimes creates some hilarious sentences.
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4 February 2007
Manga Whale arrives in Auckland
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
Earlier movie: Manga Whale Asks for Help »
More from Manga whale on IGO »
3 February 2007
Calm seas once again
Posted by Melanie, on the Esperanza
Calm Southern Ocean
© Greenpeace/Walsh
After two days of rough weather the seas have calmed down once more. Hallelujah! I barely slept for the two nights we were in rough seas, the movement kept tossing me around in my bunk. The bow crashing into the water when the ship pitched forward created a loud bang and made the entire ship shudder. Not fun. I spent many hours looking at my watch and trying to will myself to sleep, which was an exercise in futility. It was so lovely to get a full night's sleep last night, I went to bed at around 10pm and slept until 7am. Sweet.
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Manga whale asks Greenpeace for help!
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
2 February 2007
I don't mind the pitching, but the rolling really gets you
Posted by Karli, on the Esperanza
Wave breaking over the bow of the Esperanza
© Greenpeace/Beltra
I've been hearing these comments all around the ship today: "it's the pitching that's the worst" or "I don't mind the pitching, but the rolling really gets you" ...for me, it's definitely the rolly-pitchy-rolling that does it. When you tip this way, then that way, then the other way and around and back to this way again, left feeling all heavy and light at the same time.
Today was our first day of large-ish seas (note to my boss: I know, it could be a lot worse). We are all eternally grateful that we are onboard the Esperanza, not her Greenpeace sister the Arctic Sunrise. Who looks, for all intents and purposes, like a ship... but is in actual fact a hybrid of a ship and a washing machine.
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1 February 2007
The message is spreading
Posted by Sakyo, on the Esperanza
Back in New Zealand, I was very surprised that so many people came to the Open Boat. At one point, I even joined the ship's tour with other visitors. When a volunteer guide talked about about how "most Japanese people don't really eat whale meat" and "two thirds of the people don't support their Government's whaling in the high seas", I could hear/feel that people around me were really interested in hearing this.
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Isha - Cook
© Greenpeace/Beltra
India
My name is Isha and I'm from India, but I belong to this planet. I'm on board the Esperanza as cook for this anti-whaling campaign, feeding a fantastic crew on an amazing mission yet again.
Its my second trip to the Southern Oceans, some people will wonder why but its hard to explain. To be asked to go down to this ocean for this particular campaign is my salvation, and I thought I had it when I was asked to go down for the anti-whaling campaign last year... but to be asked again leaves me speechless.
I am honoured and humbled that my life has brought me here. This campaign, though the hardest on both body and soul, leaves one stunned. The sighting of whales, flying albatross, polar blue ocean, the wonderful skies and the clouds that decorate open sea sunsets. A fantastic crew of brave souls to feed. And the underlying purpose of millions around the world. Busting the Japanese whalers and making the ocean safe for the magnificent whales.
Thats why I'm back, I guess. And of course Captain Frank who asked me to be part of the crew (have I thanked you personally cappy?). I'm humbled, honoured and so grateful to life for bringing me here - lets go save some whales!
"I am a sky where Spirit dwells; stare into this deepening blue..." - Jellaludin Rumi
The pain and the beauty
Pain and beauty are co-existent, they live beside each other almost fading into one extreme...
the magnificence of spotting sperm whales last evening and the afterthought of watching of seeing them brutally murdered.
It's harder to swallow than raw spaghetti.
But I'm learning to swallow it with hope. Hope that one day in my lifetime, sooner than later I shall see them free, with no threat to their lives.
One day all beings shall realise and love the whales... one day the people involved in this madness will see a glimmer of truth and change their minds... one day this carnage will stop!
Last year when we were sailing to the Southern Ocean my family was awaiting a new life arriving into this world: my nephew is now 7 months old. He spent 4 months gazing at the whale poster in my room, often talking to it
This is when I realised in my bones how important it is for all of us to see the need for all beings to coexist in harmony... or else we will leave behind a horrible mess of the earth, out of balance with itself.
They say when you ask the universe for something, clearly, honestly and purely, it conspires to give it to you.
I ask this universe for an end to whaling. For a time when this planet is regarded by all as precious. Its creatures and treasures. When every individual takes his responsibility for life in him and around.
I hope for the people of this planet that they learn to love, for that is the only way we shall protect and love this planet and its treasures. Only then will we be able to save it!
Let it be so!
Om shanti
- Isha
Daniel - Photographer
© Greenpeace/Newman
Spain
Hola, this is Daniel.
I'm from Spain, but I've been living in Seattle the last 5 years. I'm the photographer onboard for this tour. My first trip on a Greenpeace ship was in 1990! Despite all the years, I love it as much as the first day. Since I was a child, animals and nature were my passion, then a bit later came photography and traveling. I feel very lucky, I can't think of anything else I would rather be doing.
Greenpeace gives me the chance to help make a difference with my images. I am very motivated by that. In all these years I've participated in expeditions all over the world. My images have appeared in many publications and I've been lucky enough to get some awards.
In the last years I've worked a lot documenting Global Warming nd on the Amazon rainforest.
I'm always taking photos, so when I'm not working for Greenpeace I shoot for other clients. I do travel a lot and spending so much time away from home is the downside of this job. I want to use this opportunity to thank my wife Shoshana for being so supportive of my passion.
Whaling in the 21st century doesn't make any sens to me, let's work all together to stop it!
You can check some of my photos on my site:
www.danielbeltra.com
- Daniel
Black and white dolphins
Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza
Southern rightwhale dolphin © Greenpeace/Newman
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All updates from the Southern Ocean whaling 2007 leg »
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