From our vantage point at Princes Wharf we could see the very top of the Esperanza satellite peeping out above the buildings on the customs officials wharf parallel to us and a small hint of blue bow poking out beyond the offices. As the rain started to make a determined show, the crew waited for the customs men (and a cheery sniffer dog) to do the rounds before they could bring the ship onto the public dock.

It may have been grey skies above, but as the Esperanza finally rounded the corner a big, warm cheer went up from the waiting friends and she came alongside with out a hitch.

We and the TV crews had to hang on a little longer while the engines were powered down, to ensure they didn't drown out the assembled voices and once everything was set the crew filed down the gangway as the land team laid down a traditional Maori "challenge" known as a haka. Many of you may know a haka from the "face-offs" that the All Blacks rugby teams perform against their opponents, but in this case the difference is of course that we are all on the same side - all working to stop whaling in the Southern Ocean.

We had a very special guest with us too. Pakihana Hawke is a local Maori leader in the Auckland area and he welcomed the ship and crew in Maori, before the land team broke into a special song, written a few years ago to celebrate the arrival of the Rainbow Warrior. I have pasted the words below and I can tell you that it is hard to get it out of your head once it has been sung a few times.

Not to be outdone and in keeping with traditional welcomes, Pete, our captain replied to Pakihana with his own speech and then the crew also burst into song - this time a maritime version of Aretha Franklin's song "There's a train coming" - guess which bit of the lyric they changed!

Welcomes in New Zealand are not a cursory affair. There is no swift hand shake and mumbled, grunting acknowledgement. They are full of song and dance, laughter and lots and lots of hugs and kisses between old friends, reunited on the dockside.

Soon many of the current crew will be heading home and in a couple of weeks the newly supplied and crewed Esperanza will be wished "bon voyage" - I fully expect the departure to be equally fine (but I will get someone else to film it!)

Ps. You can always check out TV NZ for what at least some of it should have looked like: http://www.tvnz.co.nz scroll down "latest videos" to see it. [Editor's Note: You can also check out TV3 in NZ].

The first ever recording of the waiata by Aunty Veppie, Mere and Dean
http://www.nz.gl3/waiata_takeone.mp3

And then again with the guitar
http://www.nz.gl3/gpnz_waiata.mp3

Chorus:
Nau mai, piki mai
Welcome, get on

Te waka o te Rangimarie
The ship of Peace

He karere kite Ao
A carrier seeing/discovering the World

Te wairua tuitui tangata
Gathering the spirit of the people

Verse 1:
Manakitia a Papatuanuku e
Caring for Mother Earth,

Me ona whenua, ona ngahere
and the land and the forests,

A Tangaroa, me te takutai moana
The god of the ocean, and coast,

Hei oranga mo tatou e
Existing for everyone

Chorus

Verse 2:
No reira kia kaha e hoa ma
Therefore be strong friends

Kia manawanui tu tangata e
Be steadfast / have a big heart and stand up people

Me o tatou rereketanga
and our difference??

E whakapakari tatou e
Reinforce/support everyone.

Chorus x2

Te wairua tuitui tangata
Gathering the spirit of the people