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31 January 2007

Life on a floating roller coaster

Posted by Melanie, on the Esperanza

Sloping horizon © Greenpeace/Walsh
Sloping horizon
© Greenpeace/Walsh
The seas have picked up significantly since yesterday and the ship is rolling about 20 degrees to port and starboard, sometimes more. I'm psyched that I haven't had to take any seasickness medicine at all, and while I have a constant lowgrade headache and a tinge of nausea, I'm certainly nowhere close to how sick I've been on past expeditions on the Arctic Sunrise. This ship is so much more stable than the Sunrise, and I'm pretty confident that I'll be able to make it through the entire expedition with my stomach contents intact.

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Emilie: 4th Mate

Emilie - 4th Mate
© Greenpeace/Beltra

Emilie - 4th Mate
Netherlands

Here we are again. For the third time down south and every time I get back to land, I say to myself; I won't go down there again. And yet here I am again. The weather makes it a bit like hell on the way down and back up, but the beauty near all that ice, the albatrosses and above all the whales is incredible.

We said last year that we would finish the job, for once and for all. But then the sad news arrived, that in the International Whaling Commission, the Japanese government was able to buy a lot of votes.

With the votes of the countries to whom they gave development money, they hope to break open the sanctuary regulations so then they could go back to commercial whaling. So in the last IWC meeting the amount of counties voting against whaling were losing ground to the pro whaling side! So we have to go back and create more awareness on what's happening.

This time we have to be able to that! And I'm here to my little bit to help.

- Emilie

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So, why are we going to the Southern Ocean?

Posted by Karli, on the Esperanza

From the bridge wing of the Esperanza © Greenpeace/Walsh
From the bridge wing of the Esperanza
© Greenpeace/Walsh

For some people, it's self-evident why we are returning the Southern Ocean - to try and put an end, to whaling there. For others, I pestered Karli to write this 'mission statement' to explain why we're going - Dave.

For the past 14 months we've been running a campaign called Defending Our Oceans. During that time we have highlighted many key threats to the world's oceans, from whaling in the icy reaches of the Southern Ocean, to illegal pirate fishing and rampant over-fishing, and to toxic and plastic marine pollution. But like the name of our ship - Esperanza - the voyage is also about giving hope for the future: hope in the form of a global network of marine reserves. We started the expedition by going to the Southern Ocean to confront the Japanese government's whaling fleet in the Southern Ocean Whale Sanctuary, and we have come full circle: we will finish by returning to the whale sanctuary, and again defending the whales.

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30 January 2007

Hypocrisy on the high seas?

Posted by Sara, on the Esperanza

One of the key demands of this campaign is that governments act at the highest level to stop whaling.

The Japanese government has been hugely effective in pouring millions of yen and government hours into doing the opposite - advancing their position through diplomatic and economic channels year on year. But it seems that despite their rhetoric, some governments might be too concerned with appeasing a trading partner than they are about defending the whales.

Only a few weeks ago it was reported that the Japanese government had intervened to ensure three countries, the UK, Belize and Canada de-register the Sea Shepherd Conservation Society's ship, Farley Mowat. Today we heard they had succeeded in putting pressure on the UK once again and the British Registry of Ships has now de-flagged their second ship, Robert Hunter. Both ships are now sailing as stateless, pirate vessels.

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Hernán - video

Hernán - video
© Greenpeace/Beltra

Hernán - video
Argentina

My name is Hernán, I do documentaries. I've been collaborating with Greenpeace for ten years now. During this time I've had the chance to work and mature as a professional and take part in such a noble task which I adhere to, which is the protection of the environment.

Thanks to Greenpeace I've got to know infinite amount of places, people and cultures. Not always these images where pleasant. My job, above all other, is to show, via my camera, the destruction of the planet and the injustices human beings commit.

This pain and desolation is my motivation to keep on fighting in order to change this reality. I'm a witness and I point out our responsiblities. I spread the word. This is what I do every time I put my camera on my shoulder. Knowing that you are there, sharing the same ideal and willing to participate, encourages me to keep on with the hard work.

Alone, we are only a drop of water, but together we are an ocean. I am convinced that as one we will change the way in which humans interact with the environment. No abuses, in equilibrium and harmony. Future generations deserve to enjoy of this wonderful planet, as much as we do.

- Hernán

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Laith - Aircraft Engineer

Laith - Aircraft Engineer
© Greenpeace/Beltra

Laith - Aircraft Engineer
New Zealand

Hi my name is Laith and I am a Helicopter Technician and Pilot, I've always loved helicopters and when asked if I would join an expedition to Antarctica to look after one I didn't have to think too hard about it.

I have a background in the NZ Air Force, but not long after I joined they stopped operating helicopters on the ice, which was disappointing as I had always wanted to see the Southern Ocean. I am a keen diver and have spent much of my spare time appreciating the ocean and its offerings which is why I am only too happy to take on this first time experience, if I can help by doing what I love then as far as I am concerned I am the one gaining the most benefit.

I realise that the helicopter plays a very important role on this expedition but that role can not be fulfilled without the people who make it possible, I hope to do my best beside those people in the hope that we can make difference.

- Laith

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Gavin - Video

Gavin - Video
© Greenpeace/Beltra

Gavin - Video
UK

Unlike a surprisingly large number of people that I meet on Greenpeace boats, I'm not multicultural and don't speak two or three languages fluently. I'm the typical Englishman. Born in London, always lived in England and only speak one language, English!

I first worked with Greenpeace 13 years ago when they were looking for an underwater cameraman and photographer to dive on Driftnets at 3am. A mutual friend suggested he might know someone mad enough to do that and so my Greenpeace life began. Since then I've dived on every kind of fishing net you can think of, taken samples from undersea nuclear pipelines, camped on the arctic sea ice, swam with whales and been shot at by fishermen. Life as a Greenpeace cameraman can be unpredictable but rarely dull.

I specialise in underwater and underground filming and photography, equally happy behind a video or stills camera. When I'm not working with Greenpeace I spend my time either beneath the waves or down caves working for clients such as dive magazines and the BBC with the odd very boring corporate video shoot thrown in to pay the bills...

I love the challenge of trying to find new ways to film and photo things, often building specialised filming rigs to get the shot. Greenpeace offers many opportunities to meet these challenges. Onboard the Esperanza you're as likely to find me in the engineering workshop building yet another strange camera mount as in the edit suite or photo room. For this Southern Ocean trip I've build a gyro stabilised camera mount for the helicopter, waterproof helmet camera's for the boat drivers and an array of other camera systems to try to give the viewer the first hand experience of what it's like to be involved in these anti-whaling campaigns.

As well as shooting video for Greenpeace on this trip, I'm also making my own independent documentary about the trip for release on DVD later this year.
Diving with sharks... no problem... flying my motorised paraglider... no problem... underwater caves... no problem... spiders... utterly terrifying...

You can see some more of my work for Greenpeace and others on my website at: www.underworld-productions.com

- Gavin

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Joe - Deckhand

Joe - Deckhand
© Greenpeace/Beltra

Joe - Deckhand
Austria

My name is Erich Boehm. But everybody calls me Joe. I was born in 1954 in Bruck/Mur, that's in Austria. After my time in school, I've learned a job as a carpenter but pretty soon, I wanted to see the world, so I started a job as an engineer on a ship and traveled for 5 years around the world.

After my time as a seaman, I worked for a few years in Russia and met my wife. Now we have two sons and live on a farm more than 1000m above sea level in the mountains.

It was 10 years ago when Greenpeace Austria was looking for somebody in the warehouse, and lucky me, I got the job!

In the last few years I spent more time in some of the east European countries than at home. Two years ago, I started to work in our oceans campaign and when I heard about the the plans of the Southern Ocean tour, I thought, one of us must go onto the Esperanza to join the expedition! And well, what can I say? I was chosen by our team, so last year down to the Southern Ocean.

From the very first beginning, I helped with pump system that we used to block the view of the whaler's harpoon.

I also wrote a weblog and was surprised how many people where reading it, and how many answers we got!

This year I got a call at my birthday, and was told, to join the tour in 2007 again! It was a hard trip last year, we stayed three months and it wasn't easy for me, but I decided, to come again!

- Joe

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29 January 2007

Ocean Defenders TV: Safe sailing Esperanza

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Esperanza leaving Auckland
The Esperanza leaving Auckland - the crowds wave goodbye
Auckland says goodbye to the Greenpeace ship Esperanza and her crew as they set off to the Southern Ocean to defend the whales. Watch Ocean Defenders TV »

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Scrimzy: the anti-whaling alien

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

whales.greenpeace.org »

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Respect for the cooks!

Posted by Karli, on the Esperanza

Making Sushi on the Esperanza © Greenpeace/Beltra
Making Sushi on the Esperanza
© Greenpeace/Beltra

Yesterday, the three campaigners onboard the Esperanza took on a different challenge. Being fiends for Japanese food (especially sushi and inari) we offered to cook a Japanese meal for the entire crew. Realising that 38 people means a lot of sushi-rolling, and in a slight last-minute moment of doubt, we also recruited kiwi volunteer Logi, who we heard on good authority had a fantastic Japanese-style eggplant recipe up his sleeve (he did).

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We love Japan, but not high seas whaling

Posted by Melanie, on the Esperanza

Making Sushi on the Esperanza © Greenpeace/Beltra
Making Sushi on the Esperanza
© Greenpeace/Beltra


Yesterday was Sunday, and traditionally, someone offers to cook dinner so the cooks can have at least half a day off.

Last night the campaigners on board (me from the US office, Karli from Greenpeace International and Sakyo from Greenpeace Japan) cooked a Japanese dinner for the crew. We started at 1pm and it took the entire five hours to get all of the food ready for the crew by 6pm. We had a pretty ambitious menu: nori maki (seaweed wrapped rolls of sushi rice and vegetables), onigiri (triangular-shaped rice balls with a pickled umeboshi plum in the middle and a seaweed wrapper), miso soup and two kinds of shiratame (sticky rice balls) for dessert: one with sweet adzuki beans called oshiruko, the second served with soybean powder called kinako. We had a lot of fun, and of course the best was learning from Sakyo how to make rice, the nori maki sushi rolls, miso soup and shiratame. I love Japanese food, and at home I frequently make nori maki and miso soup, but I learned last night that I've been using a lot of non-traditional (read: wrong!) ways of cooking Japanese food. Sakyo was very polite and diplomatic about my and Karli's non-traditional ways of cooking Japanese food, calling it "interesting."

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Sara's Challenge

Posted by Sara, on the Esperanza

I've been a journalist for many years and my brain is the repository for more useless information than you can begin to image - very handy for impressing at dinner parties - very boring on long train journeys (at least for my fellow travellers).

But in my crew profile I did promise more amazing facts on whales.

Did You Know...?

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Jetske - Boat Driver

Jetske - Boat Driver
© Greenpeace/Beltra

Jetske - Boat Driver
Netherlands

Greenpeace has taken me to many beautiful places in the past 8.5 years, from ancient forests in Finland, to the Dogger Bank in the North Sea and now for the second time to the Southern Ocean.

My start with Greenpeace was a desk job at the international office in Amsterdam. Not long after that I became a volunteer for the Dutch action team, where I learned to drive the inflatable boats and took part in many different actions. They showed me how much you can accomplish when you stand up for the things you believe in. I've changed my jobs, worked both in and outside of Greenpeace, but always stayed a volunteer for the action team.

The sea and all the life in it has a special place in my heart. Maybe this is because of living close to the sea when I grew up. Or maybe because the underwater animals and plants keep surprising me with their beauty and characteristics when I go diving. There is still so much we can learn about them. Of all the campaigns I've been part of, last year's expedition in the Southern Ocean was the most special. It was a trip of extremes. I saw nature at its best and human impact at its worst. I don’t know what will happen this year, I only hope that the whale sanctuary in the Southern Ocean will become a true sanctuary, protected even from so called 'scientific whaling'.

- Jetske

Visit Jetske's blog in Dutch »

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Serkan - Deckhand

Serkan - Deckhand
© Greenpeace/Beltra

Serkan - Deckhand
Turkey

Merhaba, Serkan, coming from Middle East, Turkey, Istanbul and heading to south to meet with the whales and protect them from harpoons - so that they aren't inside 250 gram or half kilo meat product package for human consumption. Two thirds of the whole population of Japan is against whaling in high seas for so called scientific research, which this year will more than thousand of whales... marketing science products... nice try... right now in Antarctic icy waters...

Almost six years working on the Greenpeace Ships; the Rainbow Warrior, Esperanza and Arctic Sunrise, and on the land in Turkish office, a part of the Greenpeace Mediterranean with Lebanon, Israel and Malta. Beside this, making flying effects for the videos and movies within the climbing team called Vertigo in Istanbul.



Here on Esperanza, I am at the ultimate point of dreaming, feeling, thinking and acting. The inspiring mood on board coming from the people, the biggest crew, all around the world. Physically 38 people on board the Esperanza from 16 different lands on earth. Many worlds on this beautiful planet... now we are here heading to the south on the Esperanza with esperanza (hope). All ready to stop the whalers killing, trying to give the whales a chance to balance their population in their very sensitive ecosystem...

Join us, the biggest crew working for the life in the oceans.

Here we all are the whales

Todos somos ballenas aqui

Hepimiz burada balinalariz

- Serkan

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Tweety - Helicopter

Tweety - Helicopter

Tweety - Helicopter
New Zealand

Hi. My name is Tweety, and I am the Greenpeace helicopter. I thought that you might like to know some things about me, and the role I play.

Like any respectable lady, I will not disclose my age. I have a lot of experience, yet have retained my youth due to a lot of tender loving care.

My family breeding designates me as an MD 369, or Hughes 500 D.

We were originally based in Vietnam with the military, but then moved out into civilian life, where I was born. Here, I became very popular owing to my sleek performance and good looks. I have many cousins who crave after my refinement and abilities, but alas I remain unique, and very popular with pilots.

My performance is generated from a powerful Alison 250B jet turbine engine. This is coupled to a gearbox driving 5 main rotor blades that give me the smooth performance that my lesser two-bladed cousins lack. When I am coming you will hear me humming as I get close, where as my two-bladed cousins just whack away, making a lot of noise. This made me quite stealthy and able to come and go without disturbing the environment around me too much.

At best, I can support 5 people, but I prefer it when there are only 3. This does not impede on my performance too much, but for one person, the pilot – I am a dream.

Most of the time I work with photographers, they are demanding, but respectful. I try to give them the best shots, but to do this I have to remove my doors and let them hang out.

At work I am fast and accurate, with the ability to outperform many of my rivals. My agility, for my size and age, can not really be matched. I am as happy performing an old time waltz as I am doing rock and roll. I do not do rap, and to date, I have never done a break dance...

My life with Greenpeace has taken me all over world, where I have witnessed beauty and atrocities. I have soared over the mountains of Alaska, and I have sweated pure kerosene in the jungles of the Amazon. I have spent long hours at sea trying to stop pirates, and many hours helping to expose the beauty of whales, and other animal life, whose very existence is being threatened by our financial greed. All my time is dedicated to gathering documentation and helping people who are less fortunate than us.

I know that I am not the most ecological being, but my abilities can not be substituted at this time in my evolution, so to that end, I hope that you will understand that I am here to expose to you some of the criminals that are being unwittingly supported by the public, and plundering our fragile resources.

- Tweety

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Ask Denmark not to attend Japan's Commercial Whaling Meeting

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

This February, the Japanese Government will be hosting a meeting in Tokyo to discuss the future of the whaling industry. They will be inviting other governments in attempt to create an illusion of widespread support for an end to the moratorium on commercial whaling by the International Whaling Commission (IWC).

We’re asking Denmark not to go to this meeting.

Denmark is a swing country at the IWC. IT takes a strong pro-whaling line because its delegation is dominated by the wishes of Greenland and the Faroe islands. But a majority of its population opposes whaling, and Denmark has supported many positive initiatives to protect whales and maintain transparency at the IWC.

Write to the Foreign Minister of Denmark and ask him NOT to support a return to whaling and not to participate in Japan’s attempt to undermine the moratorium »

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27 January 2007

A whale's tale in the sky

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Whale tale cloud formation © Greenpeace/Walsh
Whale tale cloud formation
© Greenpeace/Walsh

I was out on the bridge wing tonight, talking to Emelie, the 4th mate, who was on watch. We were chatting away, talking about the landscapes of New Zealand and Ireland. I must have seemed a little rude - I suddenly said "excuse me", and darted away. Seconds later I was back with my camera.

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Departure and the first 24 hours at sea

Posted by Melanie, on the Esperanza

BBQ on the Esperanza © Greenpeace/Beltra
BBQ on the Esperanza!
© Greenpeace/Beltra
We've now been at sea for a little over 24 hours. We departed Auckland yesterday and it was quite emotional. My eyes welled up with tears and I was a bit embarrassed by it, but then I looked around and realized I wasn't the only one without dry eyes. We had quite the nice crowd on the dock to wave us off, including the folks from the Greenpeace office in Auckland and some folks from the land-based campaign team who have been working hard to get the on-board campaign team prepared and ready for the expedition.

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26 January 2007

New Zealand Air Force spots Japanese whaling ships!

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Mindblowing news - a New Zealand Air Force Orion aircraft on a surveillance mission against illegal fishing in the Southern Ocean has sighted Japanese whaling vessels operating in the Ross Sea! Not only that, the Airforce managed to film the fleet, and has made the footage available.

“New Zealand has been at the forefront of international efforts to prevent whaling, and expose the heavily contested scientific basis for lethal whale research. We regard the release of this footage today as part of that effort," said Chris Carter, NZ's Minister for Conservation.

He also said that “the Orion has taken footage of the Japanese fleet's activities. Three whaling vessels were observed harpooning, hauling and processing whales. Given the strong public interest in this issue, the government has decided to make the footage available to the media".

"In doing so, we hope to allow the public to make up their own minds about Japan's whaling activities."

Here's the footage from the New Zealand Air Force on YouTube »


Watch the video »

News story: NZ Government releases footage of Japanese whaling »

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First night at sea

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Esperanza leaving Auckland © Greenpeace/Beltra
The Esperanza leaving Auckland
© Greenpeace/Beltra

So, we're off. With a mixture of relief, anticipation and emotion, we watched the mooring lines drop into the water, and the thrusters push the Esperanza away from Prince's Wharf. Dozens of people were on quayside to see us off, including, as Sara has written about - John, the man with the sign. We're off to intercept the Japanese whaling fleet in the Southern Ocean - and to hinder their attempts to kill hundreds of whales.

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It's a sign!

Posted by Sara, on the Esperanza

John, the sign-man. © Greenpeace/Walsh
John, the Signman!
© Greenpeace/Walsh
Goodbyes are always emotional. Sailing out of port, leaving good friends behind and the anticipation of what is ahead always leaves me a little misty eyed and soppy.

You expect your friends to wave you off. But, I am always amazed by the number of people that come to wave off a gang of virtual strangers simply because they are on board a Greenpeace ship.

There was the elderly lady that I met for a matter of minutes at an open day a couple of weeks ago, who turned up today all dressed up and blowing kisses. But I was most struck by one person who has already been nicknamed "Sign Man".

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The day before departure

Written last night, and posted by Melanie, on the Esperanza

Melanie Duchin, Greenpeace

Greetings from the Esperanza in Auckland, New Zealand. It's 8pm on Thursday night and we were supposed to be underway today at noon, but our departure was delayed due to something in the engine room and some epoxy that needs to dry before we can go. The epoxy is pretty important since from what I have heard (and don't quote me on this since I'm anything but an engineer) is that it is fixing a crack in the engine block. Sounds pretty serious. Definitely worth waiting for. But I've been on board the ship for a week and after a week of preparation, I'm ready to get out of here and head south toward the Southern Ocean and get on with the campaign.

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25 January 2007

Whale Love Wagon!





What's this? A Whale Love Wagon? What's it all about then? Spanish boy meets Japanese girl - they hit the road and tour Japan in the "Whale Love Wagon", in search of true love - for the planet, and for whales!

Ivan and Yuki are ready for a whale of an adventure!

"I've loved Japanese culture since my childhood," says Ivan, "I want to learn more about whales and Japanese culture."

Yuki adds, "I want to deepen my knowledge about whales and express my feelings in my art-work".

Follow Ivan and Yuki as they go to Shibuya to talk to people there »

Check the Whale Love Wagon myspace account

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Problems With Glue

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Ok, so I jumped the gun a little last night - it wasn't our last night in port. We had planned it on tonight on being our first night at sea, but our departure has been delayed until 1200 midday on Friday, New Zealand time. This is because of work that needed to be done in the engine room - it involves waiting for some epoxy to dry. One New Zealand radio presenter had it sort of right, and sort of wrong when he reported - while talking to Junichi - that we were delayed due to a "problems with glue".

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Sara - Media

Crew: Sara
© Greenpeace/Beltra

Sara - Media
Amsterdam (but actually Irish)

My little niece Mimi asked me if I would say hello to the polar bears when I go to the South Pole - I had to explain that there aren't any there. Penguins are south, polar bears are north. It has been my dream to see Antarctica and all that is there for some time, so I am very excited to be on this trip.

The reason for going is not so appealing, though. All of the figures about the number of whales still being killed in the Southern Ocean - nearly 1,000 this year, including endangered species are too awful, but the figure that really sticks in my mind for last year was the number of pregnant and nursing whales that were killed.

Of all the mature female whales that were killed last year - a nearly 94% were either pregnant or nursing, so leaving young whales to starve to death and unborn ones to die inside their mothers.

And all of that, for an industry that doesn't make sense environmentally, scientifically or economically.

I've just spent the last two years planning and working on the Defending Our Oceans expedition looking at all of the threats to our oceans, but just as importantly, all the amazing stuff that is in them, that we would be insane to allow to go to waste. For me, whaling in one of the worst examples of pointless, needless waste of ocean life, so I am very glad to get the chance to try to stop it from happening. I hope that as many of you that can sign up and campaign with us - we can't do it without you! (or the Fluffy Red Dog - yes! He's back!)

If you want the boring CV stuff: I live in Amsterdam, Irish, born in England, TV journalist/presenter for 15 years before joining Greenpeace. Whales on the other hand are far more interesting live between the polar regions and warmer tropical waters where they feed and breed... would laugh at the thought of a migration from UK to Amsterdam - as they migrate thousands of miles each year. Talking of laughing - no they don't but their songs can be heard up to 1,500 miles away. Even my laugh can't match that. I have a stack of amazing whale facts - so stay tuned for more...

-Sara

Sara's profile from the West Africa Pirate Fishing leg of Defending our Oceans »

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Regine - Boat Driver

Regine: Boat driver
© Greenpeace/Beltra

Regine - Boat driver
Germany

Last year I joined the Southern Ocean Tour on the Arctic Sunrise, a smaller ship, that was moving much more in the waves than the Esperanza...

My name is Regine, I live in Germany and work for the German actions unit. I've been a Greenpeace boat trainer for six years, and I've also spent three years as part of the international trainer team.

For nine years I've organising, whalewatching expeditions to the Arctic, in my free time. These animals fascinate me more I can say! I think whaling is not necessary. Nobody needs dead whales! Not for food, not for science! There are much more effective methods, to study these amazing animals. There are not many whales left! Even since the moratorium, the stocks have not recovered! Because of all this, and my personal feelings about our oceans and the animals in them, I'm here to help protect what the governments of all our countries can't, or don't.

-Regine

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24 January 2007

Last night anywhere near land

By Dave, on the Esperanza

It's another warm, clammy night here, in the campaign office of the Esperanza. There's no one here, but us chickens - Sara and I, glued to our laptops. You'd think we'd be out savouring the delights of urban life, but no, tonight, that's not our path. We've too much to do.

Tomorrow morning is our pre-voyage press conference - and then we're scheduled to depart at 1600 tomorrow, New Zealand Time, with all our crew, supplies and equipment on board. We'll be heading down the east coast of the North Island, heading for the Southern Ocean through the roaring forties, furious fifties and the screaming sixties.

It's down in the wild Southern Ocean that we'll find the whaling fleet, and we'll be making sure they don't go home with a full quota of dead minke or fin whales.

The adventure is just about to begin... you can take part too. Keep watching the Ocean Defenders blog and sign up to our crew on whales.greenpeace.org

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Karli - Expedition Leader

Karli - Expedition Leader
© Greenpeace/Beltra

Karli - Expedition Leader
New Zealand

Hi, my name is Karli and I'm the expedition leader onboard the Esperanza for this campaign in the Southern Ocean.

I'm from a small place at the northernmost tip of New Zealand's South Island, called Golden Bay (someone told me recently that they thought everyone should be from a place with a name like that). At the entrance to the Bay is a sandspit, where sometimes whole pods of whales get stranded.

That was always a time when the whole community would get together with buckets, gumboots, wetsuits, whatever - and try to save the whales by re-floating them with the next high tide. I remember going by bus from our little country school to the windswept beach to help with the efforts. It was always sad when some of those whales could not be saved ­ but it's not as heartbreaking as when people go out to deliberately hunt whales in one of the most untouched parts of our planet.

Growing up so close to the ocean means it has always been my passion. I first worked on marine issues when I was in Tonga, and helped with public education about whales, and promoting whale watching. Tonga has a successful whale-watching industry, and the humpback whales that people go there to see may be the same whales that the Japanese Government intends to add to its hunting plans for the next whaling season.

There are so many threats facing our oceans, and I want to help make sure that hunting whales is no longer one of those threats.

And, make some more marine reserves.

See Karli's profile from the Mexico leg of the expedition »

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Melanie - Campaigner

Melanie - Campaigner
© Greenpeace/Beltra

Melanie- Campaigner
USA

Hi, I'm Melanie Duchin. I'm a campaigner for Greenpeace in our office in Anchorage, Alaska. When I was asked back in August if I'd be interested in being on board the Esperanza for this expedition, I almost fell off my chair. It took half a nanosecond before I said, "YES!".

I've been with Greenpeace for almost 19 years and have watched Southern Ocean Expeditions from afar, always wowed by the footage and humbled by the bravery of the people who put their bodies between the whales and the harpoons.

I know it will be gruesome, difficult and highly emotional to watch the whale hunt in person, but I know that it's an important part of why I am on board: to bear witness and be the eyes and ears for the global public who can't make it to this remote part of the planet to see what the Japanese government is doing in the Southern Ocean.

Another important reason for being a part of this expedition is because the next meeting of the International Whaling Commission will be my hometown of Anchorage, so I'll have an important role back home in Alaska and throughout the U.S. talking about what I've seen in the Southern Ocean. I think a lot of Americans will be shocked to learn that the Japanese government will be killing almost 1000 whales this season, and has plans to add humpback whales to its sham "scientific whaling" program next year. I hope our expedition to the Southern Ocean will inspire people to take action so that we can finally put an end to high seas whaling.

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Sakyo - Campaigner

Sakyo - Campaigner
© Greenpeace/Beltra

Sakyo - Campaigner
Japan

My name is Sakyo, I was the action coordinator of Greenpeace Japan until last week but now I'm on the Esperanza as a Japanese campaigner.

I feel really responsible for this campaign as a Japanese person. This whaling operation is run by the Japanese Government, which has been spreading propaganda about how the anti-whaling voice of foreign countries is all about 'being anti-Japanese' or 'Japan-bashing'. This has creates a nationalistic reaction internally, in Japan and portrays us (the people who try to save the whales, like you and me) as enemies.

So my role on board the Esperanza will be to try and correct these misconceptions by letting the Japanese people know what the whaling fleet is actually doing in 'our Sanctuary' .

Surprisingly, a recent poll shows that 92% of Japanese people don't know that the fleet hunts over 900 whales, including 10 endangered species, within the Southern Ocean Whale Sanctuary.

At the same time, since the Japanese Government has been misleading the people outside Japan, saying that 'whalemeat is a popular meal choice', I have to tell you - this is not true and most Japanese people very rarely eat, or have never eaten whale meat. It's not what the majority of Japanese people want, but only a tiny number of people in the Fisheries bureaucracy who want it, in order to maintain their longterm interests.

When everybody in Japan understands why this whaling is unacceptable, and who is doing it, then finally we can put real pressure on the Japanese Government to save the whales!

By the way, I was remembering the first time I watched Greenpeace on TV, bearing witness to the dumping of the nuclear waste in the sea near Japan. I was only a kid and didn't really know about conservation but I remember I thought 'oh my god, if Greenpeace isn't there, things could have gone really bad'

And this whaling activity is similar to that nuclear dumping, 'doing dodgy things somewhere behind us where people can't see' But we, Greenpeace using our fastest ship, will find them and witness all of their activities wherever they are! And with our committed activists, we'll defend as many as whales we can.

Let's go and do our best together!

-Sakyo

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23 January 2007

Iceland's sustainable whaling? Yeah, right!

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza


Dumping site for 179 tonnes of whale entrails in Iceland
© Greenpeace / Arnkvaern

In late 2006 a single whaler, given a commercial license by the Icelandic government, hunted and killed seven fin whales. This caused huge public and political controversy, both in Iceland an internationally.

Now, some of our activists in Iceland have been hard at work, discovering whopping 200 tonnes of meat and blubber from endangered fin whales still in storage - awaiting tests for chemical contamination.

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20 January 2007

The Preparation continues on board the Esperanza, and Edmund Hillary speaks out against whaling!

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Hernan, IGO
Hernan giving a presentation about IGO

Well, the last Open Boat is done, and the Esperanza has temporarily moved to another part of Auckland harbour, continuing the ongoing preparations for our expedition to the Southern Ocean. Nearly all the crew have arrived, and everyone is getting to know each other, and some of us even managed to grab a few hours off from thinking about ships and whales and environmentalism. Just a few hours, mind.

Last night, Greenpeace New Zealand held a party so that local staff and activists could get to know the crew of the Espy, and today, Hernan did a presentation in the Greenpeace office about the IGO project. It's been a busy few days!

Meanwhile, Mount Everest hero Sir Edmund Hillary has been at Scott base in the Antarctic for what he says his last time. While there, he took the time to criticise the Japanese government, who he said do not "seem to have accepted that these creatures, wonderful creatures that they are, should be carefully protected".

Everest, Antarctic explorer Hillary returns to frozen continent on last time

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Open Boat - and some new recruits...

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

Open boat, Esperanza
© Greenpeace/Walsh

A week ago, John wrote about hosting "open boat" days. Today we had another busy day (with the final Auckland public day being tomorrow, Sunday) with hundreds of people coming on board to find out what we do. Apart from advertising in the media, anyone we bumped into got asked along - people we met in shops, bars and restaurants. This evening, after the Esperanza had 'closed' for the day, I got talking to a German couple who had just arrived on a flight from Fiji (no visible coup-related trouble, they assured me) who pledged to come back to visit tomorrow.

For me, the most interesting visitor of the day was a gentleman named Tony. You see, on my arrival into Auckland airport on Monday, one of my bags was missing. I registered the loss at the baggage desk, and headed for the ship. On Tuesday morning, I phoned the airport, and got talking to one of the baggage staff, who queried first my (Irish) accent and then the address I'd given: "The Big Blue Ship on Prince's Wharf, beside the Hilton Hotel". I told him it was the Esperanza - and he knew all about the whaling campaign. He promised to find my bag, and I invited him to visit the ship.

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New Zealand Minister for Conservation visits Esperanza!

Posted by Dave, on the Esperanza

The Esperanza's captain, Frank Kamp (let) talking to New Zealand's conservation minister Chris Carter and Greenpeace New Zealand's Burrny McDiarmid on board the Esperanza
The Esperanza's captain, Frank Kamp (left) talking to New Zealand's Minister Chris Carter and Greenpeace New Zealand's Bunny McDiarmid on board the Esperanza
© Greenpeace/Walsh

Life on board the Esperanza ain't always paint-scraping and seasickness and dolphins - last night saw plenty of landlubber guests on board the Esperanza here in Auckland, for a gathering of "friends and allies". Amongst them were New Zealand's Conservation Minister Chris Carter and the Department of Conservation's Mike Donoghue - a real live whale expert.


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Defending our Oceans is Smart!

As Adele has posted over on the Making Waves blog, we've just made (at the time of posting) the #2 spot on a list of the "59 Smartest Orgs online as chosen by GetActive, NetSquared and Squidoo". They say:

"These are organizations that give their volunteers and members a voice and get out of the way. They're pros at mobilizing awareness online. They're experimentors. Innovators. On a mission. They're fearless....These aren't just orgs that throw up a video or a forum or a MySpace page and stop."

Read more here - and vote for us!

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Dave - Web Editor

Crew: Dave Walsh
© Greenpeace/Beltra
(new more Antarctic-style photograph to follow)

Dave - Web Editor
Ireland

There's a running joke in my parent's house - my father mislays whatever it is he's reading, and ask anyone if they've seen it. What's on the cover, we ask? A ship, he answers. But dad! They all have ships on the cover!

Nearly three years ago, before I went on my first Greenpeace expedition, I had a phone conversation with my father. I think it went something like this (and sorry dad if I'm misquoting you).

"Dad, I've gotten word from Greenpeace. I'm joining the Rainbow Warrior in Auckland"

"That's great! I think you should take them up on the offer"

"Whatdya mean? I already have. I'm going.

"Hang on - how did you get into all this stuff?"

"Well, I grew up in a house full of books about ships and maps and the sea and expeditions and stuff. I guess I realised that you can off and see this stuff for yourself."

"Oh... I was just happy to read about it!"

And so here I am again, on my fourth trip on the Esperanza, as it heads south towards the Antarctic. I've always dreamed about going South, even before I was introduced to the photographs of Frank Hurley, the writings of Shackleton or the adventures of Tom Crean.

But we're not headed to the Southern Ocean for fun. We'll be confronting the whaling fleet as it continues to flout world opinion and common sense by slaughtering nearly 945 whales. Despite the watery arguments of the whaling industry's apologists, the practice of whaling 21st century is completely absurd.

Now, don't get me wrong - I'm not a utopian, and I'm not unaware of the massive scale of poverty, violence and injustice in the human world. There are many things wrong with our world, and we all have a responsibility to try and put them right. That goes for what we do to each other, and how we treat other species.

After centuries of human devastation of the global whale population, I think it's high time we laid off these massive denizens of the deep, and let them live out their lives in peace, instead of dying from the impact of exploding harpoons.

Outside of a very localised examples of sustenance whaling, there's just no good reason to continue whaling - it has become a moribund, dated practice. Absurd - that's the word I keep returning to. It's simply absurd that it's still taking place.

So let's put a stop to it - if you're still reading this, then you need to get yourself over to whales.greenpeace.org and sign up as a campaigner. Go on, you know it makes sense!

Want to read about the history of whaling? Get hold of Daniel Francis: A History of World Whaling. It'll give you a good rundown of the systematic decimation of whale populations in both hemispheres.

My earlier profile, from the West African Pirate Fishing leg
I'm also the editor of the web-based magazine blather.net »

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19 January 2007

Free trade means empty oceans: Nairobi Part II

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Daniel (right) at the Nairobi press conference
Photo by a slightly shaky Sari Tolvanen!

By Daniel, in Nairobi

Carrying the heavy Trading Away Our Oceans reports to Nairobi was well worth it. The launch at Nairobi’s oldest building (if you ignore the railway station) went well. Sometimes Defending our Oceans takes us to some unusual locations and ok, it did feel a bit funny to talk about justice and the need for fairer fisheries in a symbol of Kenya’s colonial past: the Norfolk Hotel. But our message was clearly received – and compared to where trade ministers will meet in Davos next week, I am sure even the Norfolk was modest.

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Ocean Defenders TV: Jetske Arrives in Auckland

jetske_auckland_video.jpg

Freshly arrived from the Netherlands, here's Jetske, one of our boat drivers. She looks back on her experiences of last year's expedition and wonder what might lie ahead this year.

Ok, so she's on board - but you're gonna have to come here too!

Meet Jetske on Ocean Defenders TV »

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18 January 2007

The Esperanza by Night

By Dave, on the Esperanza

Greenpeace Esperanza in Auckland
View from the deck of the Esperanza, Auckland, January 2007
© Greenpeace/Walsh

The last time I was in Auckland, was in 2005, when I joined the Rainbow Warrior for the bottom trawling expedition to the Tasman Sea. Right before we left, I did a long exposure from the deck of the ship, from our berth at Prince's Wharf, showing the deck and the skyline of Auckland, with the inevitable view of the Sky Tower.

Rainbow Warrior, Auckland 2005
Rainbow Warrior in Auckland, May 2005
© Greenpeace/Walsh

On this visit, the Esperanza is at the other side of the wharf, with less of a city skyline, but still with a view of the Sky Tower. So, last night, I was inspired to take another photograph from on top of the Esperanza's Heli-deck. Enjoy!

Deja Vu - The Rainbow Warrior is back in Auckland »

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Want to come go to the Southern Ocean with Us?

Well, you can, with I-Go!

Yes folks, we're looking for a whopping 30,000 campaigners to join the Esperanza as we sail to the Southern Ocean. OK, so the ship might only accomodate 35 crewmembers, but we need all of you guys to come along with us. So there's jobs available:

JOB DESCRIPTION: Become a Greenpeace campaigner by signing on to whales.greenpeace.org in order to create a truly global campaign to defend the whales.

BACKGROUND: Greenpeace actions against whaling fleets brought about a moratorium on commercial whaling over twenty years ago. However, in recent years, against the wishes of more than 70% of Japanese people and in the face of international condemnation, the Fisheries Agency of Japan has spent millions of dollars of Japanese taxpayers money pursuing a campaign to reintroduce commercial whaling and the hunting of endangered species.

LOCATION: Anywhere in the world where you can log on to: whales.greenpeace.org and take action.

QUALIFICATIONS: Possess great ideas, is willing to campaign relentlessly to defend the whales and ensure the Southern Ocean becomes a true sanctuary for all whales. Has a positive and constructive approach, racist jerks need not apply.

REWARDS: Become part of the biggest crew to sail to the Southern Ocean, just by surfing the Internet. Have your idea used by the Greenpeace crew to defend the whales in the Southern Ocean Whale Sanctuary

BENEFITS: No need to endure rough weather and terrible seasickness!

Ok, so where do I sign up for this madness? »

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17 January 2007

Trading Away Our Oceans

By Daniel, in Nairobi

It’s been a couple of months, since we haunted the World Trade Organization building in Geneva with our news that trade liberalization in fisheries are bad news for people and the planet.

But this Friday, as global global civil society is heading to Nairobi for the
World Social Forum , the time has come for a
follow up. My luggage will be heavy for Nairobi. I will be carrying dozens of
copies of “Trading Away Our Oceans”. We will launch this new report at the
Norfolk Hotel in Nairobi Friday at 11am. The room we have booked is next to the
pool, the Hotel staff inform me. Hope there won’t be any sharks in it!

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16 January 2007

New webbie on board

Well, not that new

Hi - I'm Dave, the latest web editor to join the Esperanza. I'm no stranger to Greenpeace shiplife, indeed some of you might remember me from previous adventures like Pirate Fishing: West Africa. Right now I'm posting from the Greenpeace NZ office, while the Esperanza is pulled up at nearby Prince's Wharf, in Downtown Auckland.


Over the next few weeks, I'll be guiding your through our adventures in the Southern Ocean, where we'll be in pursuit of the whaling fleet. We can't do it on our own though - Join our virtual crew and post your ideas to save whales!

If your in New Zealand, come visit the Esperanza this weekend!

Where: Princes Wharf, Auckland (behind the Maritime Museum)

Dates: 20 & 21 January 2007

Time: 10am - 4pm

Entry is free. Your koha/donation is appreciated and will help our voyage.

The open boat days will be on regardless of weather.

For more info, contact Greenpeace NZ.

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15 January 2007

Remember...

By John Bowler, in New Zealand

Today’s blog is not about the Esperanza or the whale campaign or how the Open Boat went today (for your information it was great, 500+ visitors and the sun shone brightly). Although I really enjoyed it again today my head (and my heart) was elsewhere.

I have been with Greenpeace for 20 years and during that time have travelled widely, but I have never been to New Zealand before. Yes, this is my first time in Auckland and so I had to check out Marsden Warf just about one kilometre away from Princes Warf where the Esperanza proudly sits.

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14 January 2007

Five days later

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Greenpeace NZ Oceans Campaigner
Jo McVeagh

By John Bowler, in New Zealand

It’s now five days since the Esperanza arrived in Auckland. During this time we have been busy with crew going and coming, repairs and maintenance, and the arrival of equipment for the upcoming Southern Ocean voyage.

It has been a busy five days, full of hard work, long hours and constant discussions over the strategy and tactics to be employed to stop whaling in the sanctuary.

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10 January 2007

The Esperanza sings

esperanza-auckland-harbour.jpg
The Espy arrives...

By Sara, at Princes Wharf in Auckland

After 15 years working in television news, I now know why I spent all my time IN FRONT of the camera and not behind it - because I am a rubbish camera woman. The lovely surprise for you all was going to be great footage of the wonderful songs the team here in Auckland had rehearsed for the ship and the equally fabulous musical response the crew had been practicing for days... But the tape needs "a little work" on it before it is presentable and frankly might never see the light of day.

So to compensate here's what you would have seen, but in a way that even I can manage - written down!

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9 January 2007

Videoblog: Return to the Southern Ocean

tn_KarliThomas.jpg
A face you'll soon see a lot more of!
What will it take to finally end whaling? As the Esperanza and her crew prepare to return to the Southern Ocean we investigate the background of Antarctic whaling - and the many strands of work required to end it - whether in political fora, corporate boardrooms, within Japan, or with ideas from people like you.

Check out the latest installment of Ocean Defenders TV.

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Powhiri Update

By Adele, in the Stockholm office with a little help from John Bowler

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The Espy crew sing under the watchful
eye of Soul Brother Marc (third from left)
Sadly I haven't yet received any incriminating footage from Sara which may reveal how good (or bad) the singing by the Esperanza crew was, but John Bowler has sent us a photo. He says:

"The Esperanza arrived today, Tuesday 9 January, at 1215 local time at Princes Wharf in Auckland, New Zealand (in the pouring rain I may add).

As soon as the Esperanza was tied up Greenpeace New Zealand performed a traditional Maori welcome. It was a very rousing and beautiful ceremony and the crew of the Esperanza responded with a song of their own.

We all (crew and welcoming committee of 40 as well as the media) went on board
the Esperanza for a wonderful lunch.

Everyone on board seems in good health and great spirit. "

If you're in Auckland, see below for the dates and times of Open Days when you can visit the ship!

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8 January 2007

New Zealand within sights

img_0505.jpg
Greenpeace NZ webby Nick Young
Is he practicing his welcome dance?
Or has he just lost his binoculars?

By Helena, onboard the Esperanza

I am still struggling to believe that tomorrow, after a month at sea, we will be on land. This week has passed by super quick, well… we lost Friday by crossing the international date line – went to bed Thursday and woke up Saturday, no complaints there. Today we were followed by an albatross, another sign we are close, and what a spectacular seabird that is. Seafarers once believed the albatross a bird of good omen, and to harm one was to bring bad luck. These days they are threatened with extinction due to longline fishing. Seeing the albatross reinforces the importance of protecting our oceans and life it sustains.

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Kia Ora from New Zealand!

By Sara, waiting patiently in the New Zealand office

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Sara on the Esperanza
...no, the firehose is NOT the surprise welcome

Having travelled half way round the world and gone from the Northern winter to the Southern summer in just two days I am now happily sitting in Auckland, waiting for the Esperanza to sail into port tomorrow morning.

The office here is planning a big welcome - but I will keep the surprise a secret for now! I can tell you it was fun to watch the last minute practicing though. Stand by and I will send pictures tomorrow (if I can figure out how to work the video camera!).

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7 January 2007

Gavin Newman looks back on 2006

By Gavin Newman

Before we embark fully on 2007, the lovely Gavin Newman, camera, video and gadget man extraodinaire has gathered some of his favourite images from his time onboard the Espy in 2006 and recorded an audio track to accompany them. So our fourth photographers photo story is born - this one looks back on 2006 and forward to the Southern Ocean. Check it out on oceans.greenpeace.org.

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6 January 2007

Behind the scenes 3: Adele Major

By Adele, at the Greenpeace office in Stockholm

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Adele (left) and friend, Japan, December 2005
So, I'm the third victim of our "Behind the Scenes" series. You've probably seen my name at the top of many a Greenpeace blog, dotted amongst the comments, or heard it muttered angrily under the breath of onboard web editors (if you happen to be a crew member). But what exactly have I been doing for the last "year" which, in true Greenpeace style, is apparently now sixteen months long?

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5 January 2007

New Zealand: Ready and Waiting

a-diver-examines-the-rainbow-w.jpeg
A diver examines the wreck of
Rainbow Warrior I in Auckland Harbour

By Carol, in the New Zealand office (holding the fort for web guru Nick)

When the Rainbow Warrior was bombed by the French in 1985, it tore a hole in our hearts, but it did not diminish our passion or stop us returning to the sea.

I wonder if there has ever been a time when there wasn’t a Kiwi aboard at least one of the Greenpeace ships, young and spirited, craving adventure, and with a fire in their belly to protect our environment and defend our oceans.

I’m looking forward to the Esperanza’s arrival. I’m also looking forward to seeing an old friend, Karli Thomas, who’s now leading the campaign team aboard the ship. We worked together a few years ago and now she is sailing home, for a brief stop, before taking on the Southern Ocean to stop whaling.

We already have so many heroes, the world does not need more villains. We love Japan, but whaling breaks our hearts.

Haere mai Esperanza – we’re ready.

Read Carol's full story on oceans.greenpeace.org where she reflects on the shared history of Greenpeace, New Zealand, and the oceans.

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3 January 2007

Letter to a whaling captain

By Helena, on board the Esperanza

One of our youngest supporters, Martina, has a good idea and a great New Year's Resolution for Captain Toyama of the Nisshin Maru - the leader of the Japanese whaling fleet.

She suggests .... "why don't you go back home take out all the harpoons and come back to the sanctuary full of tourists for whale watching"


Watch Martina's video on YouTube


Inspired? Share your ideas at whales.greenpeace.org

Not yet signed up as an Ocean Defender? well go on then

Read about our encounters with the Nisshin Maru last year -->

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1 January 2007

2006: The Year in Pictures

By Helena on the Esperanza, and Adele struggling after too much champagne in Stockholm

As another year passes by, and I try to catch up with it, Helena has been chatting with the crew about their involvement in Defending Our Oceans. For many this is the second or even third leg of the trip. There are a number of crew who are heading back down to the Southern Ocean, but some will be disembarking in New Zealand.

2006 was an amazing year. Having sailed across oceans and working on a number of campaigns; whaling, pirate fishing, tuna ranching, pollution, oil spills, marine debris and destructive coastal development. Here are some stunning pictures to reflect on the year behind us…and inspire some resolutions for the year ahead.

       

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All updates from the Southern Ocean whaling 2007 leg »
All updates from the Pacific transit »
All updates from the Mexico leg »
All updates from the Hawaii leg »
All updates from the Pacific leg »
All updates from the Philippines leg »
All updates from the India leg »
All updates from the Red Sea leg »
All updates from the Mediterranean leg »
All updates from the Azores leg »
All updates from the Pirate Fishing/Africa leg »
All updates from the Southern Ocean »

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