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29 December 2006
Behind the scenes 2: John Bowler
What DOO I doo? By John Bowler
Introducing another of our less public but very important Ocean Defenders, Irishman John Bowler. Not only was John the leader of our Southern Ocean Expedition back in 1999/2000 as well as 2005/6, but he was one of the people responsible for convincing Bono to don a radiation suit (and apparently ruin his boots) to protest against the building of a second reactor at Sellafield nuclear plant. Here's John's account of the last year Defending Our Oceans...By now you all know about DOO (Defending Our Oceans) and the many people involved in the project especially those who have been on board one of the Greenpeace ships over the past year. But what doo I doo? What has been my role in this amazing year-long expedition.
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26 December 2006
Having a wonderful Christmas without Harrods and Wal-Mart
By Christian, onboard the Esperanza

Crew opening their 'ship made' presents
Out here, in the South Pacific, as far away from anything as you can get, there are no shopping malls, mega stores or cute little Christmas shops. Here, in the best Christmas spirit, we taketh what we haveth, and make do. And do well.
It works like this: About a week before Christmas we all pull a piece of paper from a hat. On this paper there is a name, and that is the person you make a Christmas gift to. All of this is very secret and hush hush, so we lock our cabins and sneak around at night (sometimes freaking each other out), putting things together.
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25 December 2006
Christmas a world away
By Shane, back at Greenpeace HQ
The Esperanza crew is currently celebrating Christmas, and we thought we'd leave them in peace to digest their dinner. Much to the amazement of some of our guests, we here at Team Sweden called Captain Pete last night to wish him Merry Christmas (even though he's ignoring it) and the onboard crew sounded safe and well. We'll have updates from them tomorrow. Meanwhile, last year's expedition leader Shane has sent me his reflections on where he was a year ago. -- AdeleAs we passed over the winter solstice and headed in to Christmas, I paused to think about how different it was last year. On 21 December 2005, I was in the Southern Ocean on the Greenpeace ship Arctic Sunrise, and we had just found the Japanese whaling fleet. Their deck was lined with the carcasses of whales that had been harpooned before we arrived. Over the next two days, we confronted the whalers, putting ourselves and our small boats in front of the harpoon in a desperate bid to defend these magnificent creatures. Back in the Greenpeace office in December 2006, that experience feels like it was from another world.
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23 December 2006
Behind the scenes: Rose Young
Rose on the Rainbow Warrior
By Adele, at the Greenpeace outpost on a small Swedish island
It’s been a whole year Defending Our Oceans, and while we’re transiting to New Zealand (calm before the storm, I suppose!) we thought it would be nice for you to meet some of our deskbound warriors who comprise the Defending our Oceans: Behind the Scenes team. First cab off the rank is possibly the world’s coolest grandmother (to no less than seven grandchildren), Rose Young.
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22 December 2006
Leaving the Northern Hemisphere
By Helena, onboard the Esperanza
The blue skies and puffy clouds are back, the light ocean breeze implies we have now passed through the ITCZ – intertropical convergence zone, or for the more melodramatic amongst us, the ‘Doldrums’. This is a belt around the globe near the equator where the north and south tradewinds meet and get a little confused, it appears the only way is up or cancelling each other out, resulting in frustrating sailing conditions and depressed sailors. ( It was named the doldrums as sailors often had to wait for days on end for a breeze to blow them back into the tradewinds, getting hot and bothered in the meantime). Tomorrow we actually cross the Line.
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Paul Watson
By Shane, at Greenpeace HQ
Years ago a man called Paul Watson used to work for Greenpeace. He now runs an organisation called Sea Shepherd. He frequently makes less than flattering remarks about Greenpeace and the people who work for the organisation. Recently he asked if we would collaborate with him in the Southern Ocean. We said no. Some of you want to know why, so for the sake of transparency, here is the letter that explains our reasons. Once you have read it, I suggest you do what I did - forget about it and carry on working to stop whales being hunted in the Southern Ocean.
Shane Rattenbury
Oceans Team Leader
(We'd welcome your comments to this post at the Greenpeace Forum.)
19 December 2006
What not to get Captain Pete for Christmas

The lucky recipient
© The New York Times
By Adele, in the Stockholm office
A bizarre Christmas story... since we're heading to the Southern Ocean, we have been reading up on whales. While our whales guru John Frizell and our webbie Helena put together some in-depth whale facts for you, here's a little story about an unexpected Christmas present, and what has to be my absolute favourite quote of the entire year: "We don't keep a certified whale-vomit expert on staff." Ok it's funny, but it also goes to show how amazing these creatures really are.
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18 December 2006
Rainy Day, bring out the videos
If you have visited the webcam in the last few days you will have noticed a sudden change in the weather today. Instead of the usual blue skies, today is grey and it's raining. On rainy days like this I just want to read books watch videos. And it just so happens that the clever media team at Greenpeace have put together a new video, “Defending our oceans: the story so far” .I love the whistling and whirring sounds the rain is bringing. As I look out the porthole I try to imagine what the view would have been like one year ago, when this ship and her crew braved the Southern Ocean. I ask my cabin mate Caterina what it was like, with her hands (she is Italian after all) in front of the porthole she demonstrates how the horizon would appear, rise, disappear, then come back down again. I then imagine the wind howling not whistling, and the waves thumping not splashing.
17 December 2006
The power of a T-shirt
One of the joys of being onboard are the different stories you hear. It's almost one week since we left Puerto Vallarta and, where Christian had a interesting adventure. I thought we'd share it with you on this quiet Sunday.
Seemingly small things, like e.g. the t-shirt you choose to wear, can have enormous consequences. The Greenpeace t-shirt I chose to wear on our last day in Mexico in Puerto Vallarta led to this uncanny chain of events.
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16 December 2006
Pete ponders the pacifc
By Pete, onboard the Esperanza
We are now a few days into the trip and beginning to settle into the familiar shipboard routines. The numbers on board are somewhat reduced and this leaves us all more space and so the atmosphere tends to be a little more laid back. Watches, deck work, routine maintenance in the engine room, and meals with fresh vegetables and fruit from Mexico.
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15 December 2006
Catch of the day!
By Helena, onboard the Esperanza
Paul gives me the heads up, followed by Penny then Natasha. It's happening. 'Smoko' [morning tea] is over and we are nearing the critical 500 miles. I am not going to miss out this time. I grab the Nikon, entrusted to me by the lovely folk at Greenpeace headquarters, and run out to the 'poop deck' [lower back deck].The crew gathers, and preparations begin. Meanwhile, I manage to mess up the camera settings so all my pictures are coming out blue. Not good. In my excitable state and fear of missing the days big 'event' I abandon the Nikon and grab Christian's compact camera. After a few practice photos - this obviously being my lucky day - the batteries die.
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14 December 2006
Aye, me did not know that Gar!
By Helena*, onboard the Esperanza
Over the next few weeks, we want to bring you some amazing facts about the oceans - and, to keep the geek stuff entertaining, we also want to bring you some some amazing piratical exclamations -- and pirate folk, like Raoul here. Ah, the fair Esperanza, where every day is Talk Like A Pirate Day (or Knit Like a Pirate Day, if you're that way inclined). During the transit of the Esperanza from Mexico we will continue to work hard Defending Our Oceans, albeit in a quieter way than has been the case for most of this voyage.
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13 December 2006
The Wanderer (and we don't mean Johnny Cash)
by Helena, onboard the Esperanza and Adele, in the Stockholm office (blog jam!)
The name plankton is derived from the Greek word πλανκτος ("planktos"), meaning "wanderer" or "drifter". We can certainly relate to these little drifters - both Helena and Adele being part of the great Australian diaspora. At least it's decidedly more romantic than Plankton, the bad guy in Spongebob Squarepants (1% evil, 99% hot gas). Which isn't too far off (except for the evil bit): plankton are tiny organisms that are too weak or small to actually swim - actually some are plants - so they just kind of drift with ocean currents, and end up as dinner. (Not very comforting for us Wanderers. Maybe we should work on the 1% evil).
So, why are we telling you this? Well today The Esperanza launched the very technical CPR, otherwise known as the Continuous Plankton Recorder. Despite the fact that certain members of the Greenpeace clan have referred to this delicate piece of equipment as "toilet roll on a stick", this humble instrument is going to provide some very important information for our friends at the Sir Alister Hardy Foundation for Ocean Science (SAHFOS to you and me).
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12 December 2006
Natasha - deckhand

From: Malta
What is the meaning of life?
If anyone knows the answer to this please let me know.
What's your favourite song?
I have no particular song that I like. My choice of music reflect the mood that I am in.
If you were marine animal, which one would you be?
This is hard to decide. For me the two most cutest animals are marine animals, penguins and the marine iguanas from the Galapagos Islands.
Essential survival item for spending time onboard a Greenpeace ship?
Lots of chocolate
Caterina - Deckhand

Italy
I'm 33 years old and I come from Italy. I live in Sardinia, the beautiful island in the heart of the Mediterranean sea.
I’m a deckhand and this is my fourth trip on a Greenpeace ship.
The first two I was on board the Rainbow Warrior around Asia and South Pacific. The last one was on board the Esperanza for the first leg of the Defending our Ocean campaign in the Southern Ocean. Amazing trip!
When I am at home I have a job as skipper of a beautiful vintage sailing yacht called “Vstona”.
I started to sail thanks to my dad when I was just a kid, I love sailing, the ocean is in my blood, but for me the best is when I go back to my place with my boyfriend, my friends and my dog.
During the time I’ve been sailing around the world the ocean has allways given me a lot of good lessons, I’ve got a lot of respect for it.
I sail with Greenpeace because I believe in actions and not in words.
Tom - Radio Operator

First name: Tom
Hometown: the world
Nationality: Belgian or so they say
Roll on ship: radio operator
How/why did you get involved with Greenpeace?
A friend asked me to come and help out in the ware-house in Belgium 9 years ago and after helping paint banners I worked in the ware-house as a volunteer for a couple of years and one thing led to another....
How did you get started working at sea?
The oceans are one of our "last frontiers" we can't see them when we are on land but a lot of things are happening here and I wanted to help out.
What do you love/hate about being at sea?
Being at sea is freedom.
Whats been your involvement in Defending our oceans campaign?
I was on board of the Sunrise when we were not allowed to go into Saint-Kitts during the IWC meeting.
The protest against the mining at Rapu-Rapu (the Philipines), working together with the local community and by using our name to help those people.
Highlights
Seeing the active volcano near Legazpi (Philipines) was an amazing thing and off course seeing Waikiki beach ;)
Something interesting you learnt about the ocean this year
There is plastic everywhere.... incredible and disturbing...
What are you reading or listening to right now or what you have brought onboard to listen/read?
Music: Lamb, VNV Nation
What do you want for Xmas? or Your xmas message?
The rich less rich and the poor less poor!!!
What do you think the Esperanza wants for xmas?
Some paint maybe?
What are your New Years resolutions?
More of the christmas gifts I asked for.....
Zeger - 3rd mate

Most of the time I sail as the skipper on a traditional sailing barge in Holland. We try to give people a nice holiday on board, and make them a little bit more aware of their natural environment, its beautys and its threats.
In winter time I sometimes sail on Greenpeace ships which is very important to me because it gives life this extra meaning, the feeling you can do something for the environment, make a little difference. The reason I like to do this via Greenpeace is that they are mainly focused on our oceans, which is where life began. We are only starting to understand what is in them. You don't want to destroy the oceans and their contents.
Freddy - 2nd engineer
Freddy

Mar del Plata, Argentina
I came to the Greenpeace ships on March 19th 200,2 to the Arctic Sunrise when she was moored in Melbourne, Australia. Before that I worked for years for a nasty oil tanker company. The tanker I was due to join was delayed and while waiting I met, by coincidence, a schoolmate I hadn't seen for years who was sailing with Greenpeace. To keep it short, when the tanker company called to tell me the oil tanker had arrived I told them I wouldn't embark because I was joining a Greenpeace ship. They didn't like it.
Living on a GP ship is like living in a floating Babel Tower where you see people from all around the globe working as a team, but at the same time keeping their own culture or whatever predominant culture they have left at home. Listening to three or four different languages at the same time in the messroom is quite a common thing, together with long discussions on the etymology of local bad words and their literal meaning in English: Did you know that when an Argentinian drops badly a hammer on her/his finger they will yell "parrot's pussy!" instead of a sh** or a fu**?... and I really don´t want to go into the etymology on this (well, not now).
Last year I was onboard my beloved Arctic Sunrise when she was down in the Whale Sanctuary chasing whalers together with the Esperanza. This year the experience promises to be less shaky, as I'm onboard the last one, hoping we find these supposed researchers and show their illegitimate activities to the majority of the people of the world.
- Freddy
Pete - Captain

© Greenpeace/Gleizes
Cornwall (UK)
I've been involved with Greenpeace since 1978, and helped convert the Sir William Hardy which became the Rainbow Warrior, and sailed on her first voyage. I also became Captain on that voyage. She was the first ship that we had in Europe and she eventually came to a violent and untimely end on the bottom of Auckland harbour.
The first campaign I ever did was against the building of Torness Nuclear Power Station in Scotland and from there we went to Iceland and an anti-whaling campaign. My last campaign was about oil transportation and pirate fishing in the Barents Sea.
I've been involved with many campaigns over the years. The environmental abuses which Greenpeace challenges and takes action over, have taken me into all the world's oceans and a good many of the countries bordering them. I've worked on Campaigns from Antarctica to the Arctic, in the Amazon and other rivers and ports and coastal waters throughout the world.
In between times I have worked on commercial ships and I studied to get my professional qualification, which used to be called Master Mariner and is now known as "Master: Limitations Applying - None", which doesn't have quite the same ring to it.
Defending Our Oceans is an exciting and innovative Campaign.
- Pete
Starship Esperanza and the Plasma Cutter
By Helena, onboard the Esperanza
As I roam the corridors I keep hearing talk of an impending plasma cutter delivery. When I overhear Captain Pete and first mate Paul discussing the 'plasma cutter' I realise things are starting to resemble a Star Trek episode and I am now on the Starship Esperanza with Captain Pete Picard and Klingon Paul, and their trusty radio operator Spock. The plasma cutter might come in handy as we navigate through the upcoming Pacific asteroid field. Not only will it lead us through wormholes and warp space-time, it is really good for cutting steel. While the latter function excites the engineers, the former is the one I am holding my breath for. I mean who doesn't want to engage in some time travel?Continue reading... | Permalink | Comments (5)
Raoul - engineer

From: Curaçao
Have you been on a Greenpeace ship before?
Ive been working for Greenpeace for almost 2 years; Ive sailed on the Arctic Sunrise 3 times, this is my second trip on the Esperanza.
How or why did you get involved with Greenpeace?
I was working in a drydock in Curaçao. The Arctic Sunrise came in. Her main engine needed overhauling, and I was asked to do the job. I fell in love with the ship, the first time I set foot on her. Luckily for me the crew liked my work, and I was offered a job.
What was your best experience for Greenpeace so far?
Being part of an action against a nuclear navy submarine base in Brest, France. The Arctic Sunrise was part of an anti-nuclear flotilla of boats outside the base; we broke off to cross an invisible line separating us from it. The rest of the flotilla cheered us on from the other side. The French navy tried to push us back with tugboats, and they had choppers above us but we managed to launch an inflatable and get 2 activists inside the base, although they got arrested almost immediately.
What do you like best about your work on the ship?
The engine room, all the engines have different personalities. My favourite is Brigitte, the main diesel generator; she never gives me the trouble some of the others do!
What is your favourite place on the ship?
The nets, they are perfect for relaxing and looking at the stars, we have great night skies here and masses of shooting stars.
What personal connection do you have with the ocean?
I grew up on an island. The seas are a part of who I am.
Nolan - 3rd engineer

New Zealand
Why are you on this expedition?
Because I work on this ship, and this is the campaign it's assigned to.
What are you looking forward to most in this campaign?
To make a difference to the attitudes of the 'faceless ones' and Governments behind the senseless wholesale plunder of our oceans.
How/why did you get involved with Greenpeace?
I first worked on Greenpeace in the 1985 on the Antarctic Campaign, although at the time my real interest was in stopping the atomic testing at Moruroa. I have drifted in and out sporadically ever since.
What personal connection do you have to the ocean (if any?)
I am a seaman. The sea is my home. It's the place I inhabit for more than half a year each year - I don't wish my home to become a desert from exploitation and greed.
What made you become a marine engineer?
I couldn't get a deck cadetship at the time, and so I took on engineering at sea instead - no regrets.
Anything else you'd like to say?
I have six grandchildren. I had always hoped to leave them a world as close to the one I inherited. It seems to me now that this isn't possible, but I will never give up trying, for better or for worse.
- Nolan
11 December 2006
I was there: how the Southern Ocean Sanctuary came to be
Over the next few weeks we'll be bringing you stories from the Esperanza as well as from some of our deskbound warriors. As we leave Puerta Vallarta in Mexico our resident whales guru John Frizell reflects on how the Southern Ocean Sanctuary was created when the International Whaling Commission (IWC) met in this very place in 1994.It had been a long road to the 1994 IWC meeting in Puerto Vallarta. Two years before, when I raised the Southern Ocean whale sanctuary with one powerful delegation, I had promptly been put in my place. “Find me one country, just one, that’s backing this and I’ll listen to you.” A year later, when France proposed the Southern Ocean sanctuary, support was growing but it was not strong. When the IWC held a vote that could not approve the sanctuary, but could kill it off, we were lucky to survive.
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Maaike - 2nd mate

Hi, I'm Maaike.
About ten years ago I joined Greenpeace Netherlands as a volunteer activist. I was studying biology. Basically I joined every action I could. Through the dutch action team I got on board of the ships as a volunteer deckhand and one thing lead to another. Now I sail as second mate on the Esperanza.
My last trip was in 2005, during this trip we worked in the North Sea on the bycatch campaign, then against deep sea trawling in northern Atlantic. It's shocking to see how much bycatch goes over the side, from small crabs to dolphins, to creatures from the deep sea I've never seen before.
After that trip I had a break from Greenpeace. I do that once in a while. I sailed as mate on a coaster (small cargo ship) delivering general cargo in north western Europe. I enjoy this kind of work, it gives me the chance to look from a distance at work I do for Greenpeace. Somehow that makes me more motivated on future trips; which is the reason I alternate Greenpeace work with other (non NGO) work.
After sailing on that coaster I wanted to do another trip on the Esperanza, but a challenging opportunity came up: ships co-ordination for a windmill-park that was being build in the Northsea. A job ashore, but working with ships and renewable energy! I took that change and it became a very interesting summer.
So now I'm back on the Esperanza. It's very good to be back at sea. You only know how much you missed it when you're actually sailing again. I haven't been a lot in this part of the world, so I'm very excited about being here. For now I hope we can start a campaign in the last part in the Year of the Oceans that will have impact. That we can make people aware of the fact that the state of the oceans and the life in it, is actually quite alarming.
Christian - Deckhand

Norwegian
This is my fourth time onboard Esperanza.
We’ve sailed together in the Barents Sea, the North Sea, the sea of Cortez and now we are crossing the South Pacific. We’ve been through raging storms and moments of utmost tranquility.Together we’ve confronted pirate fishing, illegal trawling, cod fisheries,tanker traffic too close to shore, oil drilling and tourism development in sensitive areas, promoted a global network of marine reserves and generally loved the sea.
Never doubt that a small number of dedicated people can change the world. Indeed it is the only thing that ever has. Greenpeace has about 3 million supporters. A small number compared to the 7 billion people we are. It is a joy to be one of those supporters and a privilege to be a volunteer.
No matter how much I try to give to Greenpeace, Greenpeace just keeps on giving even more back. The places I’ve been, the people I’ve met, the sights I’ve seen, the things I’ve done. It’s amazing.
Here we are, in a fabulous place, where we can manipulate our surroundings and create in it. Like casting spells we use life, the sky, land and oceans to make computers, homes, chocolate and children. We can also create climate change, cancer, corruption and nukes. But why in the world would we want to create such things? Nobody in their right mind would.
Sometimes we create much more then we are aware of. Some may think that they are creating jobs, profit and security, when they are in fact also creating pollution, extinction, exploitation and war. Our challenge is making the unforeseen consequences foreseen. To have overview and understanding.
We are always creating cascades of changes. Changes that travel through space and time forever. Like waves in the ocean constantly reflecting, deflecting, building up, calming down, going around.
What goes around, comes around. Everything we do, we do to ourselves. Also the good stuff. That is why Greenpeace is such a smart idea and why I am so happy to be here.
Marc - Boat Mechanic/Crew Musical Composer*

From: USA/Denmark
This year marks my 20th year in Greenpeace. 20 years ago in October I started working for Greenpeace in Auckland New Zealand for the Antarctic campaigns.
My first ship was the MV Greenpeace. Ken Ballard gave me an introduction and my first tour of the ship which was docked at that time on the viaduct in downtown Auckland.
The first Rainbow Warrior was docked just beside us. Chris Robinson was cleaning her up. I found out later she was due to be scuttled in the Bay of islands, damaged beyond repair from the sabotage of the year before.
I was new to Greenpeace new to the Southern Ocean and I must say my first days at sea were not pleasant. My first voyage was to the base camp on Ross Island in Antarctica to make a re-supply and drop off the new team and retrieve the overwinterers from the year before. Leaving New Zealand we sailed into the roaring 40's with a gale blowing right on our bow. Nolan Loveridge told me I looked as Green as a Kiwi as I struggled to come right.
The first Rainbow Warrior is now an artificial reef in Matauri Bay in the North Island of New Zealand. The MV Greenpeace was donated to a group that wanted to restore her to the original tugboat. The re-supply ship Gondwana is also gone. The Antarctic Base was dismantled in the early 90's.
These days I have been crewing mainly on the Esperanza. I look after the rigid hull inflatable boats and lend a hand in the engine room. I have no plans to stop sailing for Greenpeace. It has always been a challenge and the payoff is visiting places like Baja California.
*Recently appointed Crew Musical Composer
Paloma - Volunteer Deckhand

From: Spain
My name is Paloma. I'm from Colmebar Viejo, a town in Madrid. I'm a volunteer deckhand.
Here I work on deck, keeping the ship tidy, helping the people who have more experience and learning a lot of new things about the Esperanza.
I normally work in the Greenpeace Spain office, with the Fresh Water and Oceans campaigns. I decided to be a supporter when I saw the images of ships throwing nuclear waste into the Atlantic, and almost hitting the Greenpeace activists!!!!
In 1998 I became a volunteer in the Spanish office, working with the Supporters Department, putting letters in envelopes, checking data, and after a while I collaborated with the Forest and Wetlands campaigns. In 2001, I joined the campaign team. I asked for a 5 years leave on my job but now, I think I'm not going back there.... I will be working for Greenpeace for more time, I hope!!!
This year has been an Oceans year, with the Defending Our Oceans Tour. This ship, Esperanza, has visited Spain twice. Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, with the West Africa and Pirate Fishing leg and Barcelona, the start of the Mediterranean leg, where we were exposing the critical situation of the Atlantic tuna. As well, the Rainbow Warrior visited, almost, Cartagena on August with the Defending Our Mediterranean tour.... So, looking at the people on board, working with them for a while.... I decided to be a part of the crew of one of the Greenpeace ships. I couldn't wait any longer. I really like sailing on this ship. I know a lot of people in the crew and this makes my life easier.
What I really, really like from my cabin mate is when she or he gives me some chocolate!
ea!
Me llamo Paloma y soy de Colmebar Viejo, Madrid. En el Esperanza trabajo como marinera voluntaria.
Trabajo en cubierta, manteniendo el barco limpio, sin cosas de por medio, ayudando a los marineros y marineras con mas experiencia y aprendiendo un montón de cosas del Esperanza. Además, cuando estamos navegando y es de noche, estoy de guardia durante 4 horas. Durante las guardias, estoy en el puente con Nadia, la segunda oficial a bordo, aunque cada hora hay que hacer un recorrido por el barco, comprobando que todo este bien.
Normalmente trabajo en la oficina de Greenpeace España, en las campañas de Aguas y Océanos. Decidí hacerme socia de Greenpeace al ver las imágenes de los barcos arrojando a la Fosa Atlantica, (al noroeste de España) los bidones con los residuos nucleares, antes de que se consiguiera que dejaran de "esconder" este residuo peligroso en el mar. ¡¡¡Incluso los arrojaban aunque cayeran encima de los activistas de Greenpeace!!!
En 1998, empecé a colaborar como voluntaria en la oficina de Madrid, una de las oficinas que Greenpeace tiene en España. Comencé en el Departamento de Socios y Socias, metiendo cartas en sobres, comprobando datos, .. y despues de un tiempo pasé a ayudar también a las campañas de Bosques y Humedales. En el año 2001, pedí una excendencia de 5 años y empece a trabajar en el Departamento de Campañas. Creo que me quedaré todavía un tiempo en Greenpeace, espero, por lo que no tengo planeado el regreso a mi antiguo trabajo.
Este año 2006 ha sido el año de los Océanos, con la Expedición en Defensa de Nuestros Océanos. Este barco, el Esperanza, ha visitado España en dos ocasiones. Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, como final de la etapa de Pesca Pirata en África Occidental; y Barcelona, al comienzo de la etapa mediterránea, donde estuvimos exponiendo la crítica situación del atún rojo en el Mediterráneo.
Además, también tuvimos la visita del Rainbow Warrior, en Cartagena, bueno, casi, ya que no le dejaron entrar en puerto.... durante el tour En Defensa de Nuestro Mediterráneo.
Después de todos estos años viendo los barcos de Greenpeace, trabajando con las tripulaciones, ayudando en todo lo posible y haciendo campañas por el medio ambiente... decidí que tenía que formar parte de la tripulación de este barco, o de cualquier otro de Greenpeace, por lo menos una vez en mi vida. Me encanta navegar, estar subida en cualquier cosa que flote. En este barco conozco a más de la mitad de la tripulación, ¡¡¡lo que me hace la vida como marinera mucho más fácil!!!
Y, lo que realmente me gusta de mi compañera o compañero de camarote es cuando me invita a chocolate, me encanta el chocolate negro, sobre todo si es ecológico.....
Ea!
10 December 2006
Introducing Helena
By Helena, your new webby onboard the Esperanza

You might recognise Helena as
"that girl in the helmet on the
Greenpeace homepage"
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Karen - Assistant cook

Hello my name is Karen,
I'm from Mexico city, where I've been a Greenpeace volunteer since 1999. My dream to be on a Greenpeace ship has finally become real. I recently joined the crew in Puerto Vallarta, after their work in the "World's Aquarium" (Gulf of California) in Mexico, and to join the campaign " Defending Our Oceans. This is my first trip on the MV Esperanza;
I am a Food Engineer. My work on board is as assistant in the galley; I have to keep the galley, the stores and the cold-storage rooms clean - so the food will always be fresh, safe and ready to eat, avoiding the propagation of bacteria.
My passion is underwater photography, there is so much to discover so i want to make sure we preserve this fragile world.
Defending the oceans is a campaign for all and we all can do something.
For me: The will is a great force that allows us to reach what we want.
9 December 2006
Sanctuary under siege
by Karli, disembarking the Esperanza
It has been three weeks onboard the Esperanza in the Gulf of California, and as I pack up my cabin and do my laundry, it is sad to leave the ship.At the end of our time in Mexico, we are in Puerto Vallarta and it feels right. It is a symbolic place to close this chapter of Defending Our Oceans and open the next - a return to the Southern Ocean to confront the whale hunters.
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8 December 2006
Hello - swoosh - goodbye
by Irene, onboard the Esperanza
Friends would argue that my sense of time has always been off, but I swear, time just “swooshed” by . It feels like I came onboard yesterday, but it has been almost a month of sailing in the Gulf of California. Anther leg of the Ocean defenders expedition has reached its end, and the Esperanza will soon leave Mexico. Crewmembers get off the ship, and others join.Continue reading... | Permalink | Comments (5)
7 December 2006
What now in the World's Aquarium?
by Irene, onboard the Esperanza
We have started the process of suing the Los Cabos project. Jorge Buch, director of the project, has publicly announced that their constructions are perfectly legal, that they have all the permits required and that they even have the support of green NGOs (Non Governmental Organisations). The one NGO mentioned by name is Pronatura, where Sanchez Navarro, the owner of Questro Group also happens to be a board member. Funny that.This morning there was a scent of land was in the air - trees! Haven't seen anything but sea and cacti during the last few weeks.
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6 December 2006
Heading east
by Irene, onboard the Esperanza
We are sailing eastwards across the Gulf of California. Tomorrow we arrive at Puerto Vallarta. I've put together a little slideshow, with some of the pictures not posted previously.
5 December 2006
Action against destructive development in Los Cabos
by Irene, onboard the Esperanza
We got up ridiculously early, and when I half asleep jumped in the boat it was still dark, with a bright full moon over the mountains of Baja Peninsula. I could see it through the tiny openings in the upper part of my face, situated under the puffy pads we usually refer to as "eyelids".Continue reading... | Permalink | Comments (8)
4 December 2006
Nina - Volunteer deckhand

From: Germany
My name is Nina and I live in the beautiful capital of Bavaria, Munich, which is in the south of Germany. I am 25 years old and study politics, drama and German literature. I joined the crew in La Paz. For the last three months previous to that I was a trainee at Greenpeace in Germany. It is my first time on the Esperanza and it should not be the last. Now I look forward to staying on the ship for a while. My favourite place onboard the Esperanza: anywhere outside!
I work for Greenpeace, because I believe in a better world. I grew up with organic food and spend the recent years in the countryside in a small town with only a hundred people called Diemendorf. Since then, I guess, I started to love nature and the environment around me. This is how I spend my last free time before I have to go back to Germany to finish my studies. But nobody knows what comes after!
Fuelling the crew
by Nina, onboard the Esperanza
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3 December 2006
Windy Sunday
by Irene, onboard the Esperanza
This morning I was woken up by a howling wind - I half expected to see a pack of wolves dash through a snowstorm on the tundra. Luckily we didn’t drift quite that far during the night; Isla del Carmen was still there, and lots of white foam on the waves.It took a while to get the anchor up because of the strong winds. The ship moves back and forth, and when the anchor lets go of the sea bottom she starts to drift a little. This time the wind moved her further away from the island, which is better than moving against the shore of course. It is important to keep an eye on the position of the anchor chain, and there is a lot of mysterious hand signaling going on between the crew by the anchor winch and the bridge.
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2 December 2006
Isla del Carmen
by Irene, onboard the Esperanza
Today we arrived at Isla del Carmen, which is part of the Bahía de Loreto National Park. Around 40% of all the marine species living in the whole of the Gulf of California can be found here. Gavin, Alex and Alejandro jumped in the water, and once again I wished that I was a diver. The water temperature was around 23 degrees and the visibility better than expected. There are not a lot of divers coming here - most of them stay further south.Continue reading... | Permalink | Comments (1)
1 December 2006
The "Get out if You Can Canal"
by Irene, onboard the Esperanza
We are now passing through the Canal de Ballenas - the Whale Canal. And there they are - sperm whales on starboard. And there are dolphins too. Fantastic. But it makes me think: If there are whales in the whale canal, what can we expect from the next one? The next canal we pass through is called the Sal Si Puedes Canal - the "Get out if You Can Canal". Once upon a time some navigator must have gotten himself in serious trouble there, for the passage to earn such a name.Continue reading... | Permalink | Comments (1)
Quiet morning
by Matt, onboard the Esperanza
[The other morning I found a few handwritten notes scribbled on small pieces of paper by my laptop - I of course assumed it was a passionate love letter from a secret admirer. It wasn’t, but here you go, I typed it. / Iréne]
The wind has been up all night, the anchor dragging slowly through the mud of San Felipe. Day break, my watch is nearing a close and everything is relaxing.
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