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3 October 2006

Banabas, discarded jewel of the Pacific

by Hughie, onboard the Esperanza

The island of Banaba
©Greenpeace

We flew over Banabas, an island that now lies like a discarded crown with all the gems picked from it, to document it from the air. The skies were clear and an ocean breeze ran across the seas. We left the ship about 10 miles from the coast and flew the short distance to the shores of this remarkable island.

There is a huge history, and a lot of sadness here.

The phosphate miners
In more modern times - the 1900s - the island was discovered to be rich in phosphates. The British and Australians set up an open mining company. When they arrived, the indigenous population was in the region of 450, by the 1940s there were nearly 2000 people crammed on this tiny island.

The island is constructed of coral pillars, and between these pillars, are the valuable phosphates. The mining company tore up the island. The engineering to remove the phosphates and to transport them to the facility on the shore for crushing and drying, was incredible. Having been crushed and dried, the phosphates had to be shipped.

Banabas has no natural harbour, nor any anchorage. Instead a mooring was constructed just off the beach. It comprised a large buoy attached to a 5 ton anchor that had been sank in 400 metres of water. To provide stability, 2 cables ran, at 90 degrees, from the buoy to the shore. The ships, tied to the buoy, could then be loaded by a crude elevator system - if the wind blew off the land it kept the ships straining at the buoy. Four ships fell foul of wind change and were dashed to the reef.

World War II
The island was bombed by the Japanese at the same time as Pearl Harbour - 8th Dec.1942 - and subsequently invaded by them in 1942. Between these times all the inhabitants, with the exception of 150 local young men, were evacuated. The Japanese set up gun placements and fortified the island using the men as slaves.

At the end of the war in 1945, the commander, Suzuki Naoomi, had them all executed. One man survived and was able to tell of the atrocities. Suzuki was tried and hung for his heinous crime.

The decimation
What we witnessed today, were the sad remains of what was once a beautiful island that had supported many families. The buildings from the mining company crumble to the ground, eaten with rust and time. The accommodation blocks are lined up along the coast like a chicken farm. The interior is an awe-inspiring lunar landscape.

You could not traverse this land by foot, but it is without doubt a haven for birds and small mammals. There are a lot of trees growing amongst the debris and pillars, and the vegetation is lush. On the coast there are white sand beaches that run up into coastal caves, and to the seaward side, there is a line of coral with white breakers rolling over it. From here the seabed drops off very quickly into the abyss.

     
A video snap-shot of Banabas.

Today's islanders
Banabas is said to be the highest island in the Gilbert group - a staggering 800 feet. People have returned and are living here. Fruit is plentiful, and like most other Pacific islands, their main source of protein is fish. But fish is no longer abundant.

The island has been, pillaged by European empires, exploited by industry, enslaved and slaughtered by an invading army. Yet, until now, the people have survived. Are we to be the part of history that will finally be responsible for their demise by stealing all their fish and starving them to death? We must look at ourselves before we criticise others. We may be responsible for a far worse crime, by our own greed.

   

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Comments

Interesting article & nice video about this fragile blob of land in the middle of the pacific ocean. Such a tragic story about the human and ecological results of our worldwide never-ending quest for natural resources.

Is phosphate mining still taking place on the island?

Oh btw: Farah seems to be very contented hovering above the pacific in the chopper :-)

Posted by: Pepijn at October 4, 2006 11:49 AM

Though shall search before asking simple questions ;-). Took about ten seconds to find out that mining was discontinued in 1979. Lets hope the island and its inhabitants get some peace to live their life the next decades :-)

Posted by: Pepijn at October 4, 2006 11:56 AM

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