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31 October 2006

A Haunting Ghost Story

by Marie, onboard the Esperanza

It's Halloween, and even out here in the Pacific, I have a ghost story to tell you... a true tale of horror and death. Here, in the middle of the ocean, hundreds of miles from land or other ships, there are unnatural creatures prowling the ocean depths, killing sea turtles, dolphins, and other animals indiscriminately.

They're called ghost nets, and they drift aimlessly through the oceans, killing anything that crosses their path. These nets once belonged to commercial fisherman, but were abandoned overboard, to live on for years, creeping through ocean currents in search of innocent victims.

When they've killed so many animals, they sink to the ocean floor with the weight of their prey, and let the elements devour the remains. Once the bodies ensnared within their ropes decompose, like Freddie Krueger in your worst nightmares, they rise up again to continue their dance of death beneath the waves.

THE END

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30 October 2006

Don't Judge a Book by Its Cover

by Steve, onboard the Esperanza

So, we're out here in the Pacific to get a better sense of how much plastic is in our oceans, and what it's doing to ocean life. Since this is my first time at sea, I was in awe at how blue and clean the ocean looked. I assumed it was because we were passing through a relatively untouched part of the seas, but slowly but surely, I kept getting glances of little reminders of how humankind is trashing the oceans.

If you look overboard long enough, you'll see lots of plastic bits passing Esperanza by. A buoy here, a blue chunk there, a bucket top over there. It's a bit surreal to see all of this garbage floating out here, and I can't help but wonder how long it's been out here, and what each little piece of plastic was once a part of, and where the rest of it is. As you've already read, the samples we've taken up from the ocean so far are pretty nasty.

I guess what they say is true: don't judge a book by its cover. Even though the ocean out here looks clean, we've seen a disturbing amount of plastic come up. In looking at all of the stuff that the yellow thing has pulled up, I can't help but think of all of the plastic I use at home, and how we really do think it's disposable and easy to use. But let me tell you, after seeing the huge hunks of junk float by me out here in the middle of the ocean, i'm going to think twice about those plastic water bottles and i'm definitely going to stock up on cloth bags for shopping. Just recently, I was reading a story about a whale in the Cook Islands of the Pacific who died from eating a plastic bag. Apparently, the whale (whose name was Temata) mistakenly thought the white plastic bag was a jelly fish, and the rest is as you can imagine it.

We're going to learn a lot over the next week or so about what plastic does to our oceans, but sadly, we already know enough to be certain that changing how we live on land is the only way to make life better for our oceans and all of the life that depends on them.

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29 October 2006

Cookin' Up a Storm

by Marie, onboard the Esperanza

Sundays are a day off onboard the ship, and that includes the cook. Charles Moore, one of our onboard experts on the subject of plastics in our oceans, also happens to be quite the expert cook too. He was in the galley for both lunch and dinner today, cooking up a treat for our resident birthday boy Steve - a pineapple upside down cake. I tagged along to help out, and it was a lot of fun to cook in a moving kitchen.

We've changed course to avoid a storm and search for calmer waters to conduct our testing. But the storm front has kicked up the waves just enough to make cooking more of a rollar coaster ride than a chore. But now it's time to go clean up after dinner - nothing can really make that fun.

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Marie - Web Editor

How or why did you get involved with Greenpeace?

As long as I can remember, I've cared about the environment. I grew up watching Jacques Cousteau and National Geographic. Jane Goodall was (and still is) my hero. I've worked in the environmental field my whole career, but nothing can compare to Greenpeace - there's more raw passion and dedication in the people I've worked with here than anywhere else. I really feel like Greenpeace is on the frontlines of environmental protection and awareness.

Why are you on this expedition?
I write about the threats facing our oceans on a regular basis, but this is my chance to get out from behind my computer in Washington, DC, and really see for myself what's going on. I knew things were bad, but this has been eye-opening, even for me.

What personal connection do you have to the ocean?
I live on the shores of the Chesapeake Bay, and every morning I watch the sunrise over the water - there's nothing like the feeling you get when you're near water.

If you were not on the Esperanza at this moment where would you probably be
instead and what would you be doing?
I'd be working in the DC office, and following this expedition from afar. The view is much better from here.

Have you been on a Greenpeace ship before?
This is my first time onboard, and I feel really lucky to be here.

What was your best experience for Greenpeace so far?
This one. The Greenpeace ships are so legendary - both inside and outside the organization - I can just feel the history and magic in here. Besides, I came to Greenpeace to be able to communicate to the outside world about what's really going on, but that doesn't show up on the nightly news. I can't think of a better platform for that than this.

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Steve-o, Communications Officer

Have you been on a Greenpeace ship before?
Well, this is my first time on a moving Greenpeace ship. I have been onboard
Esperanza before- when she was denied entry into the port of Miami back in 2003.
It was a very magical experience, even though it was only for a few short
hours, and I'm really excited to be here this time around.

How or why did you get involved with Greenpeace?
I've always been excited by Greenpeace, ever since I was a kid and saw images of
Greenpeace activists confronting whalers, seal hunters and nuclear power plants.
It's much more than an organization: it really is a movement. After college, I
moved to Washington, D.C., and was beyond excited to see that Greenpeace was
hiring. I started working officially for Greenpeace in 2001, and after leaving
for two years in 2004, was drawn back again this past winter because I really
wanted to be a part of this amazing expedition.

What was your best experience for Greenpeace so far?
There really are too many to mention. I was lucky enough to be part of the
Greenpeace team at the WTO meeting in Cancun, Mexico, which was a very profound
experience. But I would say that the best experience was being part of a human
art image on Miami Beach in January 2004, when over 1,000 people formed
Picasso's famed "Amnistia" drawing. Being part of such a large crowd gathered
for a unique cause was really something special, and to wake up the next day to
see it on the front page of the newspaper is a feeling I'll never forget.

What do you like best about your work on the ship?
Definitely the views from the ship. The ocean is so blue out here! And the stars at
night are truly a sight to behold.

What personal connection do you have with the ocean?
I've always felt best when the ocean is near. I don't live near the ocean at
the moment, but every chance I get, I go near the water. Being in the ocean
recharges me and even just watching the ocean from land makes me feel at peace.

If you were not on the Esperanza at this moment where would you probably be
instead and what would you be doing?
Well, I'd most likely be at the office, making phone calls and
trying to get the word out about what Greenpeace is doing. If not there, I'd no
doubt be out and about with my friends getting into some pretty hilarious
situations.

Why are you on this expedition?
I'm here because our oceans are under threat in so many ways. Especially in the
U.S., we just don't seem to understand that our consumption and daily practices
have a direct impact on these waters. Since we come from the ocean, and they
continue to give us life, I thought it was high time to give something back, and
tell the story of what's happening out here, and hopefully get a few people to
think about our daily choices and how they impact the oceans. I also really
wanted to be part of a truly global expedition- Greenpeace is global in scope,
and to be part of such a large-scale campaign has always been a dream of mine.
But, this expedition isn't just about us onboard or those of us who work with
Greenpeace. It's about all of us, since oceans protection begins on land.
Hopefully you'll join us and become an Ocean Defender right now!

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28 October 2006

Picture of the Day

The first sample collected here in the North Pacific had high concentrations of plastic.

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Plastic Pacific

by Adam, onboard the Esperanza

The scientific sampling program has now begun in earnest. Our pelagic
marine debris sampler, the courageous and now very well travelled "yellow
thing," has been in action twice. Skimming a meter-wide section of the
ocean's surface, it collects everything floating past, down to 0.3 mm in
size. The initial findings are not good. Considering the narrow strip of
water that we're sampling, the hundreds of plastic particles found
paint a shocking picture. Of course, from the ship we've seen the odd bottle
or fishing buoy floating by. However, other than that, the water looks fine;
crystal clear and beautiful. Yet, in reality, out here, in the middle of
nowhere, the sea's surface is a floating mosaic of plastic. We have
collected a diverse range of particles; mostly fragments of indeterminable
origin but also a number of pre-production pellets (negligently spilt by
industry). Judging by the number of organisms growing on the
plastic, many of these pieces began their journey years ago, potentially from
anywhere around the North Pacific.

Our work is currently being hampered by a factor beyond our control, the
weather. The location of where high pressure that creates the vortex sits
during the summer months is currently the same location as a storm. This churns the
water, mixing plastic down throughout the water column. And even the
gallant yellow thing can't work there. So we are heading east, looking for
the calm.

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The North Shore

by Steve onboard the Esperanza

So, we departed last night from Hawaii, from a place called the North Shore. I had heard of the North Shore before, because I've seen loads of surfing movies and have seen photos of the huge waves that this place is famous for. But, I had no idea that the people there would be so warm and welcoming and supportive of Greenpeace and the Defending Our Oceans expedition.

There were so many people who came out to our events. We met an incredible and inspirational woman named Jane, one of many amazing community leaders there, who helped us get in touch with the right people to help us get the word out about the problems facing our oceans. We also met Jeannie, who hosted us at her house on Sunset Beach, and came out to nearly all our events. There was also Crystal, whose work to get the positive messages out to the schoolchildren of Hawaii is so important and such a great help for the overall cause. A great guy named Mark helped us clean beaches on the North Shore, and kept telling us that despite the huge problem facing our world, he was tired of plastic polluting our beaches. There was also a woman named Cora, who's always trying to bring attention to the problems facing the environment up there. Really, the list could go on forever, but the point of the story is that these folk have inspired me so much.

Many of these folks came out to the dock at Haleiwa to bid a fond farewell to Esperanza. Some of them even paddled out to wave goodbye. In Hawaii, they talk a lot about the "Aloha Spirit," which I hadn't really understood until yesterday when we left. Aloha means hello, goodbye, and love. Its spirit guides the work of so many on the islands, and it was in full effect during our stay there. As I rode in the boat to board Esperanza, and the paddlers waved goodbye to us, I couldn't help but feel embraced by the aloha of these fantastic individuals. Every now and again, we can bear witness to the power of a community, and I really feel honored to have spent even a little bit of time in the North Shore of Oahu, and to have met even some of the folks up there whose work is so necessary and profound. Although we're now in the Pacific, I just wanted to thank all of the people there who showed us the true spirit of aloha. I don't know when I'll be back there, but hopefully soon, because the people there have impacted me more than they could ever know.

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26 October 2006

Paradise Lost

by Marie, onboard the Esperanza

When you picture Hawai'i, the first thing you think of is paradise and beautiful beaches, right? Well, it is paradise, and the beaches are beautiful, except on the windward side.

We returned to Kahuku Beach for a second beach clean up today. Each of us focused on a particular item, and I chose fishing net and rope. Of course, I could only collect smaller pieces, because it took several people to carry the large masses of fishing net that had been washed up in a tangle. Adam, one of our resident experts onboard, explained that the ocean has a way of knitting together abandoned remnants of net.

Adam also described a beach he visited on the Big Island of Hawai'i last week, which was worse than the one we were cleaning yesterday. Considering what I was looking at, and what we found, I thought that was hard to believe - until he told me that the sand there is almost completely replaced by fragments of plastic.

You see, Hawaiian beaches receive trash from the outer currents of a trash vortex, where plastic and trash from all over the Pacific Ocean are pulled by currents and wind, into a swirling mess that can reach the size of Texas in dimension.

This trash vortex is what we're here to see, so after the beach clean up, we got back onboard the Espy, and said Aloha to the friends we'd made during our brief stay in Hawai'i. We'll miss them, and hope to come back and visit them again soon.

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25 October 2006

Mahalo Tyler

by Marie, onboard the Esperanza

The Espy has been Defending Our Oceans for 11 months now, but yesterday was Day 1 for me. It's been a whirlwind of activity, with a supporter reception last night, and open boats all day today. I've met so many great people among the more than 400 who came onboard, but one really stood out for me, a boy named Tyler. Tyler was on my last tour of the day, and just as he was about to leave the ship, he handed me an envelope addressed to the crew of the Esperanza. Inside was this letter:

"Hi my name is Tyler. I heard you defend the ocean. I like the ocean too. I know not to walk on the coral and stuff like that. So anyway, do people still go whaling? I mean, I know it's against the law, but I wonder if they still go whaling. Good luck for the next time you defend the ocean.
Sincerely,
Tyler"

On the back of the letter was a fantastic drawing of the Esperanza and some of the wildlife we've been working to save over the course of this expedition. I absolutely loved it, and so did the rest of the crew.

This whole expedition has been about exposing the many threats facing our oceans, and asking all of you to become ocean defenders. It really warmed my heart to meet the next generation of ocean defenders, and I just want to say mahalo to Tyler for his beautiful drawing and letter.

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24 October 2006

Get Onboard

by Marie in Honolulu

This morning we stood on the dock of Pier 9 in Honolulu and watched as the Esperanza appeared over the horizon. I was surprised by how excited I was to see her - this was my first time seeing a Greenpeace ship in person. As she got closer, we waved to the crew, and soon we were able to make out recognizable faces, including Bill Richardson, our Deputy Executive Director in the U.S. office.

Once the Espy pulled into port, I got to meet new faces of the crew, and everyone was so friendly. I also met some supporters who were just as excited to see a Greenpeace ship as I was.

Taking a tour with some of the outgoing crew was almost surreal - this is going to be my home for the next 3 weeks.

By 2:00, the ship and her crew were welcomed by Hawai'i's Lt. Governor, James Aiona. He stressed the importance of marine protected areas like the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands National Monument, and thanked Greenpeace for our work defending the oceans.

But by the evening, we got to blow off some steam and get to know each other over dinner. I think this is going to be an amazing experience, and I couldn't ask for a better group of people to share it with. I'm really looking forward to getting onboard tomorrow.

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23 October 2006

No Ordinary Day at the Beach

by Marie in Honolulu

A toy soldier, a toothbrush, ribbon from an unwrapped gift, duct tape, a Nestle candy bar wrapper, bottle caps, ropes, fishing nets, and an explosion of plastic bits... not exactly ingredients for a perfect day at the beach. These were just a few of the things we collected on our beach clean up this morning.

We arrived at Kahuku beach bright and early this morning, but not quite early enough - the community-organized beach clean up had already begun. As soon as we set foot on the beach, we started noticing little specs of blue. I bent down, and found fragments of plastic. As I started picking them up, the sheer magnitude of what was happening hit me - these little fragments were everywhere, and they were being washed up from the ocean - from the very trash vortex we'll be investigating when we get onboard the Esperanza. We spent an hour filling our trash bags with pieces of fishing rope, plastic pieces of all shapes and sizes, when we realized the rest of the volunteers were around a bend in the beach. We picked up trash as we worked our way over to them.

As I turned the corner, my heart just sank - the trash was so much worse on this side of the beach. The entire beach was speckled with plastic bits - it literally looked like the kitchen countertop in our office, made of recycled containers. But this was exactly the opposite - evidence of all of the plastic swirling around the Pacific Ocean that hasn't been recycled, hasn't been thrown in the garbage. It was the worst result of littering, and every piece of plastic I saw represented a massive threat to wildlife, like sea turtles and albatross, who eat these pieces of plastic mistaking them for food, and end up starving to death, because they can't digest any of it. I used to wonder how an animal could mistake a plastic bottle for food, but today, as I bent down and looked closely at the debris, it wasn't until I picked something up that I could see the difference between clear or white plastic, and bits of shell that are natural on the beach. Once plastic breaks apart, it's hard to tell what it once was.

Margaret, one of the organizers of the clean up, told me that this part of the beach is worse because of the wind and currents. Here, in addition to all the little bits of plastic, were huge items like a tire, and a huge, heavy tangle of fishing nets. It was so depressing that I really felt like sitting down and giving up. But that didn't last, how could I give up, when the locals here come out all the time, and keep working to clean the beach?

So, we'll be back here again, this time with the Esperanza anchored offshore.

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22 October 2006

The real problems in the Pacific

by Richella, onboard the Esperanza

During two months of joint surveillance with enforcement officials from two countries we've patrolled over 30,000 square miles of ocean. In that time we’ve inspected 8 suspicious fishing vessels, found a warehouse full of de-finned shark carcases and spent a night fishing on a Longliner .

The situation in the Pacific is different to what we'd been expecting. The pirate fishing here is much more subtle than in West Africa. There are no rusting unlicensed vessels with demoralised crews fishing surreptitiously. Instead, each of the vessels we’ve inspected has been in good condition, the crew well fed and in good spirits. Nonetheless they are pirates, operating in a grey area between the legal loopholes and lax governance.

Read the full story >>
Listen to 'Pirates of  the Pacific' documentary - part 1 (5mins) >>
Listen to 'Pirates of  the Pacific' documentary - part 2 (5mins) >>

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The Aloha Spirit

by Marie in Honolulu

Aloha! I’m writing from Honolulu, awaiting the arrival of the Esperanza. This is my second time in Hawaii, and I’m excited to be here again. In Maui last year, I was so lucky to see humpback whales during their migration, spinner dolphins, and sea turtles – talk about seeing some of the top animals on my life list. I’ll never forget seeing baby whales learning how to breach, or snorkeling above a green sea turtle.

This time around, I’ll be boarding the Esperanza for 3 weeks, as we celebrate the new Northwestern Hawaiian Islands National Monument, and investigate the trash vortex swirling between Hawai’i and California.

I arrived a couple of days ago with some other Greenpeace folks, including Buffy and Steve who will be getting onboard with me. We’ve been fortunate enough to participate in a couple of community events here in Honolulu, including the Bioneers conference at the Manoa campus of the University of Hawai’i, and a warm welcome at the Patagonia store in Hale'iwa. The people here have been amazing, and what they've managed to accomplish through local activism is an inspiration to us all. My favorite line came from our Bioneers host, Joshua Cooper, when he explained the meaning of the Hawaiian expression, ma ka hane ka ike: in the action, that’s where knowledge is. Well, I think that sums up Greenpeace pretty well, and describes what we’re here for.

I hope you’ll follow our journey and share in the knowledge we discover.

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Picture of the day

We've arrived in Honolulu, Hawaii. Miguel hoists the anchor ball, the internationally recognised signal that our ship is at anchor.

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21 October 2006

Letter from the prosecutor

by Måns, onboard the Esperanza

What do U think of when U hear people talking about the Order of Free and Accepted Masons, a Knight Templar, Lions, Mormons, Jehovah's or sparkling wine from Germany. Well, most likely the word "sect" would cross your mind. (If U prefer the sparkling wine without alko, ask for "Apfelsekt"). Some say that the definition of a sect should be: the institution of an elite, standing outside the social reality and most often in opposition to it.

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Climate change in the Pacific

by Richella, onboard the Esperanza

Last week it was 37°C in Sydney and 19°C in London. I’ve lived in both cities. Sydney’s 33° south of the equator, London’s 51° north. These temperatures are unseasonably warm for both cities and that's wrong. When it’s hot in Sydney it should be cold in London, and vice versa. That’s supposed to be part of the fun of having two homes. Anyone who thinks climate change isn’t real, or isn’t significant or that it won’t radically alter their lifestyle needs their head examined.

Read the full story >>

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Picture of the day

Now that Tweety (the Greenpeace helicopter) is no longer on stand-by the marine debris sampling device, aka the Yellow Thing, is back in action. Today's trawl netted a selection of krill, copepods, jeuvenile fish and this blue bottle jellyfish.

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20 October 2006

Picture of the day

Before I got on board I wondered what the deckhands did all day. Now I know - a continuous cycle of deck maintence. This afternoon Mary Ann painted the fire-hose box.

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Raoul - engineer

Have you been on a Greenpeace ship before?
I’ve been working for Greenpeace for almost 2 years; I’ve sailed on the Arctic Sunrise 3 times, this is my second trip on the Esperanza.

How or why did you get involved with Greenpeace?
I was working in a drydock in Curaçao. The Arctic Sunrise came in. Her main engine needed overhauling, and I was asked to do the job. I fell in love with the ship, the first time I set foot on her. Luckily for me the crew liked my work, and I was offered a job.

What was your best experience for Greenpeace so far?
Being part of an action against a nuclear navy submarine base in Brest, France. The Arctic Sunrise was part of an anti-nuclear flotilla of boats outside the base; we broke off to cross an invisible line separating us from it. The rest of the flotilla cheered us on from the other side. The French navy tried to push us back with tugboats, and they had choppers above us – but we managed to launch an inflatable and get 2 activists inside the base, although they got arrested almost immediately.

What do you like best about your work on the ship?
The engine room, all the engines have different personalities. My favourite is Brigitte, the main diesel generator; she never gives me the trouble some of the others do!

What is your favourite place on the ship?
The nets, they are perfect for relaxing and looking at the stars, we have great night skies here and masses of shooting stars.

What personal connection do you have with the ocean?
I grew up on an island. The seas are a part of who I am.

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My treat

by Mary Ann, onboard the Esperanza

I have been on this ship for almost 2 months now and we are on our way to Honolulu. A couple of days ago was the last day we could scout for more fishing vessels in the Kiribati EEZ. And that meant it was the last day for Tweety, the Greenpeace helicopter, to fly till the next time she is needed.

When I found out there was a chance to go I scrambled to talk with Emily, our logistics coordinator. Happily, she said yes.

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19 October 2006

Bloody whaling

by Richella, onboard the Esperanza

I’m sure you’ve heard that Iceland is intending to resume whale hunting. I just don’t get it. Why? Whales are smart, beautiful creatures. Sure, you could feed a family of four for months on the carcass but if the Gallop survey of Icelanders’ consumption habits and the market for whale meat is anything to go by – food’s not the issue.

Is it national pride? or is it something else…

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Picture of the day

A Brown Booby has made its home in the mast at the bow of the Esperanza. The Booby feeds on the flying fish that leap out of the way as the ship steams towards Honolulu.

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18 October 2006

Picture of the day

The view from the campaign team's cabin.

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17 October 2006

Local feelings

by Richella, onboard the Esperanza

We’re working with local enforcement officers and have some Pacific Islanders onboard as crew and campaigners. I don't know if it's because I'm English, but sometimes it's hard not to feel like a great white hunter cruising through the Pacific telling the natives how to manage their own resources more effectively.

But Greenpeace does have offices in the Pacific, run by local people who have been working on the issues facing the Pacific for years. Greenpeace does get some amazing support from the local community. In 2004 Te Vaka, one of the most successful bands in Polynesia, wrote the song "Our Ocean, Our Future, Our Choice" for Greenpeace. The song is a passionate call from the people of the pacific to their leaders, and to the world's fishing industry, to ensure the Pacific tuna fishery survives large scale commercial fishing and piracy.

Listen to Te Vaka's song >>

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Videoblog - thanks for all the fish

by Richella, onboard the Esperanza

Maarten has been busy putting together the latest episode of Ocean Defenders TV. Join Farah, our European oceans campaigner, as she leads us behind the scenes of the onboard inspections.

Watch Ocean Defenders TV

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Picture of the day

“Imagine what people would say if a band of hunters strung a mile of net between two immense all-terrain vehicles and dragged it at speed across the plains of Africa…” This is how Charles Clover starts to explain trawling.

His book -The End of the Line - is an informative, engaging polemic on the history, politics and science behind the mismanagement of the world’s fisheries. It provides real-world worse case scenario examples for the few remaining viable fisheries and exposes hypocrisies such as “If one were to subject the world’s fisheries to the Revised Management Procedure devised for controlling catches of whales... most fisheries would be closed overnight.”

Reading it has made me more determined to fight to save our remaining ocean wildlife, because once it's gone, it's gone for good. Buy, beg, steal, borrow but most of all, read a copy of:

The End of the Line by Charles Clover – published by Random House (ISBN 0-09-189781-5) and available from Amazon.

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15 October 2006

Picture of the day

A half-moon at midnight.

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Getting nautical

by Jo, onboard the Esperanza

"Arr me hearties" "Ahoy there landlubbers", unfortunately perhaps we don't talk like this on the ship, but we do use a whole different language for everyday things. Måns our third engineer regularly threatens to make me walk the plank whenever I say room instead of Cabin, or call the portside left and starboard right (or even in my case, calling port right and starboard left but my directional dyslexia is another story!).

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14 October 2006

Ecard - Tuna School 2006

The lovely Elaine in Amsterdam has been busy creating an informative flash e-card.

Check out Tuna School 2006 >>

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Take offs are optional

by Hughie, onboard the Esperanza

People have been asking me about manoeuvres with the heli, noticing that when in what (seems to them) the same situation, different manoeuvres are sometimes conducted. To answer some of your questions, here is a basic introduction to what can become a very deep subject. If I told you that aircraft are in fact sucked up by a vacuum above the wings, and then went on to explain it, you might be a little bored. So, lets go with the KIS (Keep It Simple) approach.

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Picture of the day

The air conditioning has finally given up the battle with the oppressive Pacific heat. As a result the number of sleepy crew roaming around the ship at night has dramatically increased. At least Alex brings his camera - this is the shot of the Bridge at dawn.

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13 October 2006

From sea to shelf

by Richella, onboard the Esperanza

Canned tuna is weird sh*t. I spent my student days living off the stuff but had no idea if it was even ‘raw’ or ‘cooked’. The meat’s the colour of a cadaver, salty, and kind of soft - sadly it was one of the highlights of my diet at that time. My late teens and twenties were another life, pinched out of space and time, driven by a burning desire to make money, see the world and taste everything it had to offer. Back then I didn’t even consider tuna to be a fish. It came in cans, and I ate it on toast, on pizza and when my culinary imagination failed me, on a fork straight out of the can.

Watch the video >>

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12 October 2006

Slideshow - Night fishing

by Richella, onboard the Esperanza

Two days ago part of the team boarded a Korean longliner the Shin Yung 51 as part of a routine inspection. It took officials nearly 18 hours to verify whether they were legal. During that time our team had an unprecedented opportunity: to spend a night fishing with the 24 member crew of the vessel. Two teams worked day and night. The day team set the lines, the night team hauled them in and butchered the catch.

We've put together a slideshow that captures some of the 'highlights'. It's makes fascinating viewing and reaffirms, if there was ever any doubt, that Pacific fish are wild animals, deserving of the respect we normally reserve for residents of the African plains.

View slideshow >>

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11 October 2006

I always hated Longlines

by Bill, onboard the Esperanza

Sunrise over the Pacific was beautiful this morning. It was just a bit surreal seeing it from onboard a Korean longliner, where I'd spent a sleepless night making sure the Shin Yung 51 didn't make a run for it after we found possible fishing violations. It was also an opportunity to witness and document their operation from a front row seat.

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10 October 2006

May you live in interesting times…

by Richella, onboard the Esperanza

We do, but it’s not always interesting in the ways that I like. On monday, North Korea became the ninth country in the world to test a nuclear weapon. It’s been 61 years since nuclear weapons were first and last detonated in anger. Escalating arms races in different parts of the world are increasing its likelihood of happening again. The so-called ‘civilised’ world has definitely been going backwards since 9/11.

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9 October 2006

Wonders of the Pacific

by Jo, onboard the Esperanza

Every day in the Pacific is different. I could never have imagined that staring out at miles and miles of blue everyday could have such variation. That the tiniest difference in ripples and waves could have such an impact on the colour of the water –that there could be so many shades of blue.

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Ocean Defenders: Rock 'n' Roll Chinese-style

By Adele in the Greenpeace Nordic office

As the Espy continues its work in the Pacific I just wanted to rudely interrupt to give a glimpse of what our other Ocean Defenders are up to. Chinese band Catcher in the Rye performed at a huge concert in Beijing on October 2nd, and proudly wore Defending our Oceans tshirts. Rumour has it that they're even writing a song about Greenpeace. You can check out more pics on the Catcher in the Rye blog. Feel free to leave them a message, although it's a bit tricky to figure out in Chinese!

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Videoblog - plundering the Pacific

by Richella, onboard the Esperanza

Is it really possible that we are even overfishing the Pacific - the world's largest ocean? The answer is a straight forward yes and we should not even be surprised. Find out why in the latest episode of Ocean Defenders TV, narrated by yours truly...

Watch Ocean Defenders TV

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8 October 2006

Meet the new crew

by Richella, onboard the Esperanza

During our stay in Pohnpei we swapped and gained a few team members. On the campaigns front, Mal left to return to his veggie patch and was replaced by Farah, Sam the videographer has been replaced by Maarten and Bill from the US and Emily from Australia joined the team. Their profiles are up in the meet the crew section so have a read and say hello.

And for those of you who have been following closely, Mike our sparky electrician has has updated his profile and shows-off his Photoshop skills.

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7 October 2006

A view from above

by Bill, onboard the Esperanza

One of the tools on the Esperanza that helps us patrol the ocean is a helicopter. It sits bound to the small heli-deck on the back of the ship when not in use, and takes off from there when we need it. It greatly expands our reach in searching a vast ocean for pirate fishermen, and captures photo and video images from the air that help us tell the story about the beauty and threats currently facing our seas.

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Picture of the day

Matthew and Teh relax and play some tunes during morning tea.

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6 October 2006

At the UN: What's in the media and what's going on in the room are 2 very different things!

By Karen, at the UN General Assembly in New York

Hello from the UN in NY, where the negotiations over the annual UN Resolution on Sustainable Fisheries are now underway. Over the past two days, delegates have met to discuss what to do about the issue of high seas bottom trawling. The momentum is all there for something to happen, but it is what goes on behind closed doors in the basement of the UN that is going to decide what actually happens.

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Mike "Sparky" - Electrician

Hi,

I'm Mike, electrician here on the Esperanza. I love to be at sea, I like being an electrician and having people around! In addition, at Greenpeace, you get to work towards making changes, and to make this planet a better place!

It is a great job; you are working just like at home and travel from place to place at the same time. You can enjoy being in the middle of the sea and are part of the crew which is like a big family.

But how did I come to a nice job like this? A friend of mine worked on Greenpeace ships and I wanted to work for Greenpeace too. When I heard they were looking for an electrician on board the Esperanza I applied, and joined the ship in Alaska. That was such a great experience that I am now here for my sixth trip...

This time I joined the Ship in Manila. Ready for the next leg of the “Defending Our Oceans” tour. Back at sea I hope we will be able to tie up to the big success from the last months! Since I've worked for Greenpeace, I became more and more aware of how important it is to fight for the sea and its inhabitants. That is exactly what we are going for!

Are you an Ocean Defender already...?
Peace, Mike

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5 October 2006

Suspected pirate on the run

by Richella, onboard the Esperanza

At around 3pm on wednesday afternoon the team on the bridge of the Esperanza spotted a vessel on the horizon. By 4pm we could see it was a Korean longliner, the Dong Won 117. There are two fisheries enforcement officials from the Pacific Island of Kiribati onboard with us, and we went out with them to check out the boat.

Read what happened next and the shady world of Dong Won Industries...

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Suspicious shark finning

by Richella, onboard the Esperanza

This photo was taken in a warehouse less than 100 metres from where the Esperanza had been docked in Pohnpei.. While most of the team had been busy on official Defending Our Oceans business, Alex had come across evidence of a lucrative shark finning operation. Maarten and I joined him and we spent the remaining two and a half hours in Pohnpei trying to unravel what was going on.

Read the full story

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Maarten - Cameraman / Producer

Hi, I'm Maarten and I am the onboard cameraman for this leg of Defending Our Oceans. I work as a producer / cameraman at our international office in Amsterdam co-ordinating our video output on oceans issues. This means I am usually at the receiving end of footage coming in from the Esperanza. It makes it all the more exciting to once again be allowed during the expedition and hey, the Pacific - could be worse!

What are you looking forward to most in this campaign?
Seeing beautiful marine life.

Have you been on a Greenpeace ship before?
Yes, I am a member of staff at Greenpeace International and am occasionally allowed to work on the ships. The last time was during our work on bluefin tuna in the Mediterranean in May.

How or why did you get involved with Greenpeace?
The first thing I drew when I was a kid were whales, soon after came the Greenpeace inflatables. To coin a phrase from Ray Liotta in Goodfellas: "As far back as I can remember, I have always wanted to work for Greenpeace."

What was your best experience with Greenpeace so far?
I think working on Defending Our Oceans has been the best work I have been involved in thus far. As a marine biologist and film maker, I feel deeply connected to the oceans.

What do you like most about your work on the ship?
I feel I am very privileged to combine my interests in marine biology and film making. Getting close to a story and getting access by having a camera in your hand is great. Telling stories through images is my passion.

And least?
Very long hours in a hot, stuffy and cramped edit suite are ruining my back!

If you had three free wishes, what would those be?
1. Planet saved - switch over to natural history filming
2. Miss World
3. No more back problems

What is your favourite place on the ship?
Outside on the accomodation deck looking out over the bow.

Why this place?
Breezy yet slightly sheltered and more quiet than most parts of the ship!

If you were not on the Esperanza at this moment where would you probably be instead and what would you be doing?
Probably sitting in a more spacious edit suite in Amsterdam editing the footage coming off the Esperanza.

What personal connection do you have to the ocean (if any?)
I have a masters degree in Marine Biology but that is merely the cerebral side. I think the oceans truly are a place of beauty and wonder.

Did you bring anything special for spare time?
As I had to bring dive gear and camera equipment and travel four days to reach the ship, I brought as little personal stuff as possible. US airline security made me part with my toothpaste and deodorant. (I got some replacements in case you are worried!). My green frog Kikkert will travel anywhere with me though.

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4 October 2006

Emily - Onboard logistics coordinator

What is your job on the Esperanza?
My job on board the board is to work with the campaign team and the captain to find the fishing boats that we are looking for out here in the Pacific. This involves analysing all the data that we have and planning our route for the ship and the searching work we are doing with our helicopter.

What are you looking forward to most in this campaign?
The countries of the Pacific face such a huge challenge to patrol their own territorial waters. These tiny and very poor countries have some of the largest areas of territorial waters to manage in the world. So, I am hoping that our work here will help them protect this incredibly valuable resource.

Have you been on a Greenpeace ship before?
Yes - I have been working on the Greenpeace ships for over ten years in a range of different roles. In the 1990's, I spent five years working as a deckhand on the Rainbow Warrior and a number of other Greenpeace ships. Since then I have done a lot of work as an onboard logistics coordinator and as also as a project coordinator organising ship tours with many different Greenpeace offices around the world.

How or why did you get involved with Greenpeace?
I started with Greenpeace when I was a university student in 1992. Originally I was fundraising for them as a way to help pay my way through my studies - but very soon I got involved in the campaign work they were doing. When I graduated I ran away to sea on the Rainbow Warrior as a deckhand to work on an overfishing campaign in South America. I think it was the fact that as an organisation Greenpeace is actually able to get out into the world to confront environmental problems where they are happening that I find inspirational.

What was your best experience with Greenpeace so far?
I have had so many amazing experiences with Greenpeace over the last 15 years – it’s hard to say which is the best. One that stands out for me was in the Solomon Islands a few years ago.

The Rainbow Warrior went to visit a small village that the local Greenpeace team had been working with for many years, helping them establish a small scale eco-forestry project. The project involves the local community doing very selective and environmentally managed tree felling in their traditional lands.

By starting this small scale industry the community was able to kick out a big industrial logging company and were making enough money to build good houses in their village and a school for the local children. It was inspiring to see that there are solutions to huge problems, like industrial logging, that both save the forests for future generations and also provide enough income for local communities to support themselves on their own lands.

What do you like most about your work on the ship?
Having the ships is an amazing tool. To actually get out to the places where the environmental problem is occurring, and take action or bear witness is not something that many other groups are able to do. We can do this and by telling the story of what we are doing - we can bring other people with us on these journeys and give them a chance to see what is going on.

The other part of working on the ships that I find inspirational is the amazing diversity of people you get to work with. There are people from many different nationalities and from a huge range of backgrounds - from engineers and helicopter pilots to photographers and doctors.

And least?
I really enjoying being on the ship but after a few months I do miss being able to go for a walk, to feel earth, instead of steel, beneath my feet and the smell, sound and the look of trees.

If you were not on the Esperanza at this moment where would you probably be instead and what would you be doing?
I would be at home - I live in the Blue Mountains in Australia (just west of Sydney). I am in the process of fixing up an old cottage there - so if I wasn't here right now, I think I would be at home painting walls and enjoying the coming of spring.

What personal connection do you have to the ocean (if any)?
I don't know if it is a personal connection, but it always amazes me that although the ocean covers nearly 70% of this planet of ours (making land the exception rather than the norm), most people in the world have no idea what this amazing part of our planet is like. I feel very lucky to have been able to spend so much time living and working in the oceans of the world.

I hope that our work out here can help give other people a feeling of what the majority of this planet is like and why is should be looked after.

.

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Picture of the day

Here there be dragons. In the mess is a large map of the world. The position of each of the Greenpeace ships is marked by a model. For a couple of days now the Esperanza has been loitering at the far edge of the map, poised to sail off the edge of the world...

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Farah - Campaigner

I am an Oceans Campaigner with Greenpeace Holland, I carry a Dutch passport - but really, am a citizen of the world.

Why are you on this expedition?
I joined the Esperanza as the international woman of mystery. No seriously, I was asked to join the team as the International Oceans campaigner, particularly to push the story of over-capacity, capacity migration and illegal fishing in Europe.

Have you been on a Greenpeace ship before?
Just before joining the Esperanza on this tour, I was onboard the Arctic Sunrise as lead campaigner. We were in the North Sea taking on reefers (transport vessels) carrying illegal cod from the Barents Sea. We took action against a Russian reefer called the Mumrsinskiy, which came to Eemshaven in the Netherlands for offloading. We had 9 activists chained to the ship; the latches and crane to prevent the offloading of fish until the Dutch government could confirm the legality of the catch.

I have also been on the Rainbow Warrior in Hong Kong for Onboard Campaign Training.

How or why did you get involved with Greenpeace?
I have always wanted to work for the environmental movement and have always supported Greenpeace's commitment to non-violent creative confrontation to expose and prevent environmental crimes. Prior to joining the NGO world I worked as an environmental consultant primarily for industry. In this role my job was to manage my clients' environmental liabilities and I often felt very uncomfortable with the compromises I had to make with respect to the environment in order to make my client happy. Although it was a great learning experience, my 5 years in consultancy reinforced my motivation to join Greenpeace, which I pursued with persistence until I got in!

What was your best experience with Greenpeace so far?
I have had many good experiences with Greenpeace, but probably the most rewarding one was when I was running my campaign in the Netherlands and taking action against an illegal reefer. Despite the weeks of hard work and lack of sleep prior to the action, the adrenaline from leading an action was amazing. It is also a great feeling to know that there are so many volunteers and activists out there willing to be on the front line to support your campaign.

And who knows, the best experience may be yet to come on this tour. We have only just embarked on our second leg and I have good hopes for the weeks ahead.

What do you like most about your work on the ship?
There are many good aspects to being on the ship, but I'd have to say that the location for this tour has to top it all! We are cruising the Pacific - one of the most beautiful places on earth. Everytime I look out of the porthole, I look out over a stunning deep blue ocean that stretches for miles. Knowing where I am in the world makes me feel lucky.

And least?
We have only just started this second leg of the tour, so I can’t say I miss much yet from home, but what I like least about being here is the lack of space for movement. I miss running and going places. After only two days we’re already making jokes about where to go for lunch and our Pacific stroll after meal times – which involves rounds on the deck.

The worst thing for me at the moment though is the fact that there is a stomach bug going round the ship and almost everyone seems to be affected. I just hope it doesn’t get out of control - not very pleasant in such a small space…

If you had three free wishes, what would those be?
Personal or job-related? Let me see… I wish for this leg to be successful, that we bust some pirates and really shake governments to urgently address the fact that the Pacific is being plundered. At this exact point in time, I wish for a HUGE vanilla ice cream smothered in lot's of yummy honey! And last but not least I wish for a green and peaceful future ;-) – yeah yeah – Greenpeace’s mission statement.

What is your favourite place on the ship?
Anywhere on deck that captures the warm Pacific sea breeze and that is out of reach of any smells from the ship – so either the bow or the heli-deck.

Why this place?
The Pacific breeze is a warm and embracing one. Never too hot or humid and always with a soft touch. I spent some time in Hawaii, and being out on deck feeling the breeze brings back some good memories. Also it’s good to be outside looking out over the very realm that you’re trying to protect: the Ocean.

If you were not on the Esperanza at this moment where would you probably
be instead and what would you be doing?
Well, its 06.48 on a Wednesday morning back in Holland, which means that I would be asleep at this time. I would probably get up at around 08.30, do my morning routine and head out to the office. So nothing special.

What personal connection do you have to the ocean (if any?)
I grew up by the ocean, mostly in Scheveningen, The Netherlands, but also in Gabon (West Africa), Hawaii and St. Andrews in Scotland. I love the ocean and feel very strongly about protecting it. It’s a largely unknown world and we’re destroying it before even learning about it. To me the ocean is the most powerful force on earth. We should be respecting it rather than abusing it.

Did you bring anything special for spare time ?
My birthday has just been and my friends got me an MP3 player that’s takes up to like 9000 songs! The evening before I left they gave it to me with some 600 songs on it and I look forward to discovering all the tunes that are on it!

Anything else you'd like to say?
If anyone has actually read to this point on the page, and is interested in my one take-home message then here it is: Join us and become an ocean defender. Also do your bit and educate those around you about the threats the world’s oceans face and what we can all do to help mitigate them.

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Bill - Campaigner

Why are you on this expedition?
I am on as a campaigner and US spokesperson. Given the impact that American markets have on this region and the presence of a sizeable fishing fleet flying the US flag, it's important to get the story about overfishing and illegal fishing in this part of the world to run in the States. America loves a scandal, and stories about how fish caught illegally end up on their plates at home should get their attention. I'm also on to help make the connection between this leg of the Defending our Oceans tour and the upcoming US leg, as well as help negotiate any situations that might arise with American authorities.

What are you looking forward to most in this campaign?
Addressing the issues of overfishing and illegal fishing head on from the front lines. Mostly I just see this stuff on the chalkboard in the planning room, in updates via email and on the evening news. Behind-the-scenes efforts are obviously critical to make our work happen, and I take great pride in my normal day-to-day roles. But it's nice to occasionally have the opportunity to be part of the signature elements of Greenpeace's work firsthand.

Have you been on a Greenpeace ship before?
Yep.

Oh, I guess you want more. I was on the Moby Dick in 1995 as part of the Great Lakes tour in the US. From the ship we launched an action against the Fermi Nuclear Power Plant in Monroe's MI, during which we scaled one of the cooling towers and hung a banner. I was one of the climbers.

Arctic Sunrise in 2000 as part of our west coast tour of the US, in the lead up to the first "Star Wars" action at Vandenberg Air Force Base.

The Rainbow Warrior in 2001, as part of our east coast tour leading up to the organization's 30th anniversary celebration scheduled for New York City. Unfortunately, we were supposed to arrive in New York on September 11th. The hijacked planes crashed into the World Trade Center towers about three hours before we came within view. We ended up anchored offshore in sight of the skyline, a thick wall of black smoke where the twin towers had once stood. Eventually we were re-routed to Philadelphia.

How or why did you get involved with Greenpeace?
I started with Greenpeace right out of college. I was a political science major, and the decision to join the organization was the cumulative effect of several internships I did in various levels of government during my junior year of college. After seeing first hand the way government works, I started looking for a better way to help make a difference. The international aspect of Greenpeace was a big part of the draw, as well as the organization's signature element of creative confrontation. After studying Gandhi, I was drawn to being the change I want to see in this world. I have now been with Greenpeace for over 18 years.

What was your best experience with Greenpeace so far?
I have two. One was as a climber on the Sears Tower in Chicago. The action took place on December 2nd, 1992, the 50th anniversary of the first sustained nuclear reaction. We climbed the skyscraper's window washing tracks and hung a large banner that read "End the 50 Year Nightmare: Nuclear Free Future Now", with an image of a nuclear blast plume in the shape of a skull. Of course, the forefathers of this technology had to usher in the nuclear age in December in Chicago, as opposed to, say, March in the Bahamas. Even from the grave, they were making our lives difficult.

The second was the aforementioned climb of the nuclear cooling tower. We had to jump a fence at 3:00 am, run across an open field to the base of the tower with all our gear and cram into a small dark corner when a security guard came within 20 feet of our hiding place. Then I had to lead climb 70 feet of rickety, overhanging mesh to a platform and navigate across the moat of cooling water to the base of the ladder leading to the top of the 400-foot tower. The action took place on the 50th anniversary of the bombing of Nagasaki, and was part of the global campaign to tie together all things nuclear - weapons, testing and power. The action preceded the Rainbow Warrior's occupation of the test site in the South Pacific during France's renewed underground testing program.

What do you like most about your work on the ship?
In addition to the fact that our ships represent the magic of Greenpeace, and we tend to be at our best when we're campaigning on the water, I'd say that working with Greenpeace colleagues from over 20 different countries is what I like most.

And least?
Being away from my family. I'm missing my daughter's soccer season, and I miss throwing the football in the backyard with my son. Additionally, it's hard to follow the baseball playoffs back in the States from here.

If you had three free wishes, what would those be?
World peace, an end to environmental problems and a run of World Series championships for the Boston Red Sox.

What is your favourite place on the ship?
The back deck. It provides a beautiful view of the vast, deep blue ocean, and it's a great place to see the stars.

If you were not on the Esperanza at this moment where would you probably be instead and what would you be doing?
I'd be back at work in the US Greenpeace office, probably in a planning meeting or writing a board report.

What personal connection do you have to the ocean (if any)?
I have a real affinity with the ocean, although where I live in Washington, DC isn't particularly close to one. My family and I go to the Outer Banks of North Carolina every year for our annual holiday, with lots of time spent on the sand and in the waves. Although I'm not particularly good at it, I love to surf. I've always been drawn to sports that involve working with elements of nature.

Anything else you'd like to say?
Every day I work for Greenpeace is a privilege not to be taken for granted. To be able to represent our supporters around the world, as well as the hopes and dreams of those we inspire, is an honor that is empowering and humbling for me personally.

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3 October 2006

Banabas, discarded jewel of the Pacific

by Hughie, onboard the