26 September 2006
Nan Madol
by Richella, onboard the Esperanza
Yesterday evening we departed Pohnpei. It had been an exhausting, rewarding five days. We had hosted two big events, an open boat and a social evening, been guests at Hayhows house, dived with mantas, discussed catches with local fishermen, caught up with our partners and officials from FSM, and visited the ancient city of Nan Madol.The ruins of Nan Madol were a highlight for me. A legendary city built out of basalt on over ninety artificial islands, its origins and history are cloaked in legend and superstition. It is a powerful place. The ruined walls simultaneously exude a sense of disquiet and tranquility.
It was once the religious centre of the ruling Saudeleur dynasty, and for locals today it is still a place of spirits and superstition. No one is quite sure when it was first built. Excavations suggest the area was occupied as early as 200 AD, and carbon dating puts the once impressive current structure at 1200 AD. The Saudeleurs Pacific dynasty was thought to have reached its peak in the 1300s before being over thrown by invaders from an unidentified island.
I'm embarassed to admit that I was surprised when learnt that a small group of islands in the middle of the Pacific had supported such a sophisticated and advanced civilisation. I am humbled to realise that all that remains of 1000 years of cultural, social and economic structures are an assortment of walls, graveyards and ante-chambers.
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