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10 July 2006

A Remote Island Stop Over.

by Slade, onboard the Esperanza

Island stop over
©Greenpeace/Slade Gray
Today was something a bit different. The crew of the Esperanza had the fantastic privilege of visiting a remote island community. We were passing Kelai Island, in the Maldives to research the risks of rising sea levels on Island communities. This incredibly unique island is one of the most far northern islands in the Maldives. It's only two metres above sea level and is in constant risk of rising sea levels due to climate change.

We lowered the Jetboat into the water (which is affectionately known onboard as "The Jetboat"), with Mark at the wheel we boarded via the pilot door on the port side (left side) of the ship. We weren't entirely sure what to expect as we approached the island in the boat, we were quite excited whilst being cautious at the same time. We spent sometime searching for an appropriate place to make a landing as the sea floor was very rocky.

Once we found the ideal place, Mark got us in as close as he could, then it was into the water for a few metres swim to get to shore. It felt like I was in a reality TV show like Lost or Survivor. I was even hoping to meet people who had been ship wrecked there for years and we'd be the first people they'd seen since. However, we did our research prior to departing the ship and we established that this tiny island paradise had a population of around 2000 people, so no castaways were likely.

Once on the Island we spotted a fisherman with a long bamboo fishing rod, sitting on a man made chair, or as I like to call it ‘Ocean Stool' about 20 metres off shore. Shortly after he passed us by while we were on the beach and we exchanged ‘hellos'. Our first interaction with the local community was just Hello? Damn! I figured he must have just been shy. A few of the crew noticed a small village further round the cove we had landed in. So In typical friendly Greenpeace style a few of us decided to go and have a chat with the locals.

Not knowing what to expect upon arrival in the little village, the local community was extremely friendly and perhaps slightly surprised. This community has 0 percent tourism so having visitors isn't a common occurrence. With such a warm reception we decided to take the opportunity to sit with them and have a chat.

       

As remote as this community is, it's not totally isolated. Speaking with Wahid Ibrahim, who manages the local postal service, he tells us that he can pick up 113 TV channels. The next question I'm sure we could have guessed the answer, but we asked what they do for fun to which we got a reply of "we watch TV". I think the most humorous thing I found was that they had a cell phone tower and a lot of people seemed to have cell phones. It was great, but just looked so odd in this remote village to see that. With 2000 people on the Island I wouldn't have thought they needed to call each other, but even the kids we're SMS texting each other.

This community is very self sufficient and self sustainable. They have very strict laws on fishing. They aren't so much 'laws' as they are community morals - no net fishing at all. They are all aware that if they over fish there will be none left. They only take from the sea what they need.

Rising sea levels here are a scary and clearly visible reality. The island is two metres above sea level. In the recent Tsunami, the nearby island of Filadu took an intense battering whilst at the same time sheltering Kelai Island. The people of Filadu we're evacuated to Kelai. The population here know that they are sinking and are very conscious of the rising sea levels. In the last 50 years they have lost nearly 30 percent of their land to the sea. It's quite obvious that the sea is rising because when you look along the coast line it's slowly being washed into the ocean. There are dying trees surrounded by sea water that are slowly being taken by the ocean. There is very little beach left, only is some sheltered coves on the south west side of the Island can you found any decent beach.

I think this stop has been very educational for all onboard, I know I learnt a lot. It was also good to see the devastation that is happening here with my own eyes. I think this is definitely an experience I will remember for the rest of my life. It's sad to think that quite possibly in my life time, this tiny Island I visited may not exist and will be wiped off the map.

   

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Comments

This must have been a really interesting experience. Sounds intriguing and awesome pictures.

Though the 'We watch TV' answer was a bit disappointing!! ;)

Posted by: Jerome at July 13, 2006 6:13 PM

I saw some pics that Paul shared. This is paradise!

When will people take action?...

Posted by: Mary Ann at July 13, 2006 7:00 PM

Hi Slade...,
...what an absolutely beautiful island, ...the water color and all. Thanks for a great presentation, and such a human and perfect story to go with it. It's so sad it has to be a tragedy, as we continue on with carbon emissons and global warming. It shames me to know that 30% of all carbon emissions in the world come from my country, the richest one, and the one that has the greatest ability to achive 0% emissions. You guessed it, The United States. Pretty soon though, we're going to have competition, ...soon there's going to be a billion Chinese driving cars.
There's a new movie just out in theaters if anyone out there can get to see it - 'An inconvenient truth' with Al Gore. The movie has some some stunning and convincing proof. I urge you all to see it. I'd put it on my site, but Al Gore and his thugs would probably come here and whip me. Thanks for a most excellent article Slade

Posted by: Grateful Child at July 13, 2006 9:10 PM

hey slade! what's up?
it's the old Ass. cook...

nice places you'r visiting..so sad it's gonna dissapear..

say hi to all the crew for me.. + would be nice to know what's the campign will deal with in india..

here a little intense.. kind of a war... so sad..will people ever learn?

i'm bording the Rainbow Warrior again soon.. we'll deal with some peace issues as well i hope, since it's "greenPEACE", right?

fair winds and soft landing in india!

PEACE!!!

p.s
charles, you'r the man.

Posted by: ilai at July 14, 2006 1:55 AM

Hey Ilai,
Thanks for the posting mate. It was great to hear from you. Hope all is well there, I imagine it must be very full on and stressful. I hope you are ok. I've passed your posting onto the crew. We all send our love and positive energy your way and hope that peace can happen soon.

All the best, and will see you soon!

Peace!
The Crew of The Esperanza.

Posted by: by Slade, onboard the Esperanza at July 14, 2006 2:42 AM

What a wonderful experiance you all must have had.
Thank you Slade for the pictures & story, you made me feel apart of it. If it was warm here I would have felt as tho I was with you. (Any room for Mum). Keep up the good work all of you. I realy look forward to looking you up every day. Next time a picture of you.
Love Mum

Posted by: Bernadette at July 14, 2006 12:09 PM

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