Enjoying a cup of tea after breakfast is best on the lea (less-windy) side of the ship. I don't even try to put my feet on the railings anymore, since Eddie the bosum told me about a thousand times it damages the paint. Outside everybody is always on the lookout for whales or dolphins. Although we've spotted loads, it's still a great thrill to see them. Any time the call comes from the bridge "sperm whale off the port bow" or "pod of risso's - starboard quarter" - we all start running to that side of the ship, cameras and binoculars in hand.

Ships like these need overhauling all the time. Esperanza's sides, hatches and decks are forever being painted and repainted in a constant battle in the war of iron and steel against their ancient enemy - rust. Every place you put your feet or fingers on, or set down a cup, could be newly fresh, wet paint. Checking if it's safe to lean against is something that happens automatically by now.

Everybody on board has to help keeping the ship clean. It's turned out to be a smart idea to sign up for cleaning duties when the weather is not too rough - cleaning the toilets in a Force 7 gale is not for the faint-hearted! And also to put your name down often enough to show your cooperation, but without doing too much. Garbage is kept on board - we never throw anything over the side. That means empty milk cartons get washed to prevent them stinking, and all cans are crushed to keep the volume down.

Sleeping in a bed that moves on the waves is not easy. Following the advice of an experienced sailor I have filled my bed with some extra pillows to prevent the biggest shocks. It works! Just one more week to go now, and I will be off the ship. I wonder how soon I will adopt my normal life again. I guess I will find myself hungry at ship feeding times and flushing the toilet at home for at least thirty seconds for quite some time to come!

- Laura