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12 March 2006

The Invisibles

by Mike the Mate, onboard the Esperanza


©Greenpeace/Gleizes
In the seventeen years he's been sailing with Greenpeace as Radio Operator, Thom has crossed the equator over five times. Standing on the Esperanza's moonlit heli-deck, in a balmy equatorial breeze, he told me of his first 'crossing of the line' on board the Black Pig, while sailing to Moruroa Atoll in 1984. "I've made four more since then", he confided, in a Kentucky chuckle of laughter.

During my first year at sea, sailing on cadet training ships, I crossed the line eight times. Two days after crossing for the eighth time the captain of the Victory, brought the ship close in to Ascension Island. It was New Years Eve (1986/1987), and the ship was destined for Cape Town laden with cargo from the East coast of America. I was asked by the captain to signal 'Happy New Year' to the signal station on the island. The message starts with four short flashes (Morse code for the letter H) on the Aldis lamp. They returned a signal, but not an intelligent one, we reverted to VHF salutations, I don't think they were expecting company that night, so we sailed on by.

Yesterday, we stopped at Ascension sland, nearly eight degrees south of the Equator. On the bridge wing, a meeting for the Invisibles - interrupted on three occasions by individual pollywogs; the web-wiggler Dave, the absent minded professor Adam, and the efficient deckhand Timo - the last reporting to the bridge ten minutes before his night watch. Sabine was short and frank with each intruder and shooed them away. "Can't you see the ship is leaning over this way? It's too crowded over here already", she barked at them. This meeting of the invisibles had become urgent following what happened the night before.

Recorded by web-cam and still fresh in the mind of the mate on watch, the flickering red of fireflies appeared on the foredeck before metamorphosing into irregular shadows lighting up cigarettes. The web-cam and I watched the fireflies and the shadows from our vantage point on the bridge wings - their voices echoed against the bridge face and their meeting recorded together with a lot of Sara's laughter. These weren't fireflies, or the crew, these were the pollywogs on the fore-deck.

When will we cross the invisible line?

- Mike

History of "Crossing the Line"

   

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Comments

Oh my goodness!!! I tried so hard to figure out just what those strange lights were.

Posted by: Brenda at March 13, 2006 3:53 AM

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