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27 December 2005

Day four of no whaling

by Philster, onboard the Esperanza

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It's early afternoon Tuesday. Outside the sea is a jumbled mess of short steep swell. Thank goodness for radar I think as a snow storm envelopes us. The wind still 30 knots has a bite to it that leaves the ends of your fingers numb after only a few minutes outside. I was glove less to film the Arctic Sunrise as she pulled up next to us. From the south she had appeared over the horizon, I am sure much to the dismay of the Nisshin Maru, which changed course to port and for a while not one but two Greenpeace ships were chasing her.

The Nisshin Maru obviously short of a few hundred Antarctic Minke whales for ballast, her bow rising and falling a long way in these steep seas. There is some consolation in the fact that the crew on the whale "Research" ship are having a hard time in these conditions as well.

Christmas day was very quiet in the morning, many of us not sleeping so well. The bridge was abuzz however as a ship appeared on the radar in our shadow and made its way past us in big seas.

I missed all of this but at 0730 I watched the Sea Shepherd vessel at our side, painted all black and looking ominous in the wind waves and snow. Captain Frank radioed the crew of the Farley Mowat and wished them a happy Christmas as they slipped behind as we sped up to keep pace with the NM in these huge seas. That day the weather became a full force 10 on the Beaufort scale, going into almost a force 11. The wind gusting up to 66 knots, the seas over 12 meters, the tops curling over and breaking into an angry foam. Waves crashing over the ship.

Life remained quiet onboard except for some sad Christmas music coming from the lounge. People put the final touches on the Christmas presents they had made. Some of the crew were watching movies around the ship. The cooks little helpers had been busy helping in the galley.

It was a very quiet day for me, I didn't eat lunch. Caterina tried to point out that I could be seasick. I of course explained that couldn't be possible - an old sea dog like me doesn't get sea sick. I explained that it is a rare symptom that occurs to New Zealanders when they are not home for Christmas.

That evening we gathered in the lounge, super Joe rocked up as Santa and gave out the gifts that the crew had made each other. The standard of gifts was high I thought. Some people having put in a lot of time with their presents. At one point we took a wave and the ship rolled violently, Santa and several of the crew unceremoniously dumped on each other amongst laughter and the odd OW!. Celebrations went into the night. Another uncomfortable night, hard to stop everything from sliding or banging around. Wedged into my bunk with pillows on each side I am violently rocked to a disturbed sleep.

Boxing Day became a re-secure things day as we checked the ship. A boat on the top deck had moved a little, a liferaft had jumped off its cradle, a blade tiedown for "Tweety" had blown off. Otherwise everything was ship shape. Standing in front of the bridge at one point I leaned into the wind arms stretched convinced that was what flying felt like. The wind blowing so hard you couldn't get a breathe of air.

Today while standing watching the Nisshin Maru crashing through these waters, an adult Giant Petrel escorting us for a while, it still hadn't really stuck home that we were pursuing a ship in the Southern Ocean. Modern pirates hunting in what is supposed to be a whale sanctuary. At one point Jeremy, (the snapper) the photographer asked me to stay where I was to get my silhouette with the NM in the background. The icy cold wind tearing at your skin. I'm wearing a short-sleeved top and sleeveless jacket, still I don't complain because Jeremy is out there with me in the cold. Jeremy was on board the Mermaid when we spent the day with the hunters. Not once did he complain of the cold or that he was hungry, in fact as with me he didn't want to come back to the ship when we did that day. Some of Jeremy's amazing shots are on the web page I believe.

Just checked out my porthole, a giant iceberg heading north looms out of the fog. We are turning north, the Nisshin Maru has decided we are going that way for now. We think that they are trying to wear us out.

   

Comments

God Bless you all! keep up the good work and know that there are so many of us unable to be there with you, supporting, admiring and appreciating your efforts!.

Posted by: Kimi at December 27, 2005 1:52 PM

Happy New Year to all of you and my fondest wishes for a safe and joyful new year.

Kjell from Sweden

Posted by: Kjell at December 27, 2005 6:48 PM

Happy New Year and Good Luck.

Kjell from Sweden

Posted by: Kjell at December 27, 2005 10:21 PM

Caterina !!
Philster seasick ???
are you crazy ?? what the hell are you saying ??
what is going to be your next comment? that Captain Frank is scared by a 40 kts gust of wind ?
bah... :)
All the best to you all guys,
Giuliano

Posted by: Giuliano Necchi at December 27, 2005 10:39 PM

From the deepest of my heart, I thank you all for doing what you're doing on behalve of so many of us. Also a BIG thank you to many of you finding the time, under such difficult weather conditions -and time constrains- to write your individual stories of the day's events... Thank you! Keep up the good work warriors of the rainbow. You're an inspiration to many many people and gives us all hope for a better and more just future.

Hugs all round, with love,
Rien
peace

Posted by: Rien Achterberg at December 28, 2005 1:55 AM

Hello again.

4 days without any whales, and all becouse of your preasence! dont give up, your doing a very good work out there.

Best wishes Ken Rabelius, Sweden

Posted by: Ken Rabelius at December 28, 2005 6:07 AM

I think that it is fantastic that there are people like you out there defending the whales (and the rest of nature)... Keep up the fantastic work!

Posted by: Heidi at December 28, 2005 6:58 AM

Hey Philster and all the crew out there in the wild S. Ocean, I just want to let you know that there are so many people wishing you well & thanking you for what your doing down there. Your dedication is incredible & thanks also for keeping us up to date with whats happening...
Its hard to imagine those freezing fingers as I sit here in my mothers warm house full of food & too many beers & all the other festive season endulgences, but my thoughts are never to far away from you guys
The storm seems like a blessing because it means our precious whales arn't being killed, but I'm sure for you all that line of thought is wearing a bit thin as you get thrown around...

What can I say but hang in there, thank you all so much & Happy New Year!
Kia Kaha...

Posted by: sheenabee[TypeKey Profile Page] at December 28, 2005 7:45 AM

From a peaceful, snowy town in the UK... enjoy the respite - short as it may be.But don't give in! Or let them grind you down.We still support you!

I am sure our snow storm does not compare to yours but it is very beautiful at this moment in early morning Lincoln.

Posted by: Bobby and Cogs at December 28, 2005 9:08 AM

If you could see the light you cast across the globe, you would never be discouraged, downhearted, or overwhelmed. In the Christian scriptures there is a passage where a young disciple and a powerful prophet are faced with an enormous army of enemies to their cause. The young man feels completely outnumbered and questions the prophet's calm. "Show him, Lord," the prophet prays; and the young man's eyes are opened to a dimension he has not seen before, and the world is filled with warrior angels of light, dwarfing the enemy forces completely. If Greenpeace's own warriors of light could only see as that disciple saw, your hearts would lift in joy and new strength would surge through your bones. Way down in the Southern Ocean, you may think that you are two tiny boats fighting for the good in a vast and lonely sea, opposed by stoneheart, hostile governments and the greed of those who draw blood but never see it. But on a deeper plane, two powerful lights thrust back the black greed and cruelty that has so tragically, and temporarily, blinded our Japanese brothers, and the night is full of angels, who carry the light you cast across the Earth. See? here and here and here, millions of hearts that are not stone nor dead have caught fire, and the strength of your peace, the force of your defense, the courage and love in your hearts, illumines the world.

-----
Andrew replies

Thanks Arianne. I'm not especially religious myself, but I like that story. It's one that rings true for me on a very earthly level. Although it might look like we are only two small ships facing a huge task in a vast ocean - you are right, we are supported by an organization with millions of members. And our organization, Greenpeace, is only one part of a much bigger environmental movement. It's an encouraging fact that all over the world - from the US to Europe, India to Australia, New Zealand and yes even Japan - regular people are coming to the defense of these whales. You can help, by telling Gorton's (US seafood company) to pressure its parent company into helping us end whaling. You can also contact your government and let them know how you feel, and if you e.org/en/ocean-defenders">sign up to be an Ocean Defender we'll send you updates on how to be part of our entire 14 month Defending Our Oceans tour.
Looking forward to working with all you "points of light" out there.

-- Andrew (onboard the Esperanza)

Posted by: Arianne Townshend at December 28, 2005 9:50 AM

Thank you for your efforts. This is some of the most important work on the planet, protecting those beings which are threatened by greed and disregard for life. Murdering whales for economic gain must be ended. I wish you a safe voyage.
Peace. Joseph Nelson

Posted by: Joseph Nelson at December 29, 2005 6:15 PM

JOYEUX NOEL ET HEUREUSE ANNÉE!
merci d'être là-bas, au grand froid, au bout du monde, à déployer tant d'efforts dans la lutte pour la survie des baleines!
la ville de Sherbrooke vous salue... et spécialement charles-antoine, votre cook sur l'esperanza, qui nous manque à tous ici...
bon courage! et que l'année 2006 vous donne encore la force de convaincre le monde entier de l'urgence des actions à continuer!
béatrice migneault, sherbrooke (québec)

Posted by: beatrice m. at December 30, 2005 7:05 PM

hey,
just wanted to say you guys are doing a great job out there. well done for all your hard work...you are making a big difference, keep it up :)
x x x

Posted by: beth at January 7, 2006 9:21 PM

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