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31 December 2005
Happy holidays from the engine room
Imagine a car chase, but one that goes on for days or even weeks. That's our situation.
We have been on the tail of the whaler's factory ship for a week now, and our success hangs on the staff of the engineering department. If Nisshin Maru has to stop for a few hours to fix something, no problem. But if we break down or have to slow or stop, we could lose the whalers.
With that in mind here's an update from our chief engineer giving you an idea about what his team is up to for the holidays.
-- Andrew
by Mannes, onboard the Esperanza
Definition of an engineer's day off: Do the jobs you must do and between them, do the jobs that have to be done, but are of a too low priority to be done on a working day
Xmas Eve 23:00 we solved our problem on one of the lubrication oil coolers, all covered in oil we can sit back and relax now. Again we managed to solve another problem without loosing our target off the radar screen. Hard to explain that the cracking of one simple rubber ring is enough to make us shut down one of the main engines and took us seven hours to replace. Not too much is said, but we are all proud of our accomplished work.
Time to take a shower and spend the last half hour of this day to look forward to xmas.
Xmas Slava is the duty watch keeper for the day. Because it is xmas he takes it easy and starts at ten past eight instead of eight. Christmas or not, one by one the engineers that wake up dribble in to the engine control room (ECR) with their tea or coffee. On a day off you may as well get up early and enjoy every minute that you don't have to be there.
We finish our coffee and Slava starts his round, a two hour round to collect the over 300 parameters and figures that we need to determine if we will have a quiet day or not.
I do my own round and start transferring fuel from the storage tanks in the double bottom of the ship to a settling tank from were it will be cleaned and transferred into the service tanks, ready to be used by the engines. After this transfer of weight from one side of the ship to another, I have to shift other weights (fuel or ballast water) to correct the stability balance again to avoid that the ship is listing over port or starboard side.
One of our priorities is to keep the fuel tanks topped up completely with clean fuel so that, in case of a malfunction of the automatic centrifugal fuel oil cleaner, we have a full day supply to fix the problem. The last thing we want to happen is that we have to stop and loose the Nisshin Maru because of something that could have been avoided.
10:00 Slava returns from his round with the good news that everything is running fine at the moment, and that Viktor has gone down to the engine room to perform the three hours cleaning service on our two automatic centrifugal lubrication oil cleaners.
Slava starts logging down his gathered data in our engine room logbook.
11:30 Time to sound the fuel tanks and get the running hours of all the different machinery. Each day at the same time we sound the fuel tank levels to determine our fuel consumption.
13:00 Logging down running hours and update the maintenance system, and write down the new running hours related maintenance for the next day.
Viktor finishes his cleaning job, and all together we do a quick cleaning job in the engine room to make sure that the floor plates and engines are free of oil and we are ready for the second half of our day off.
14:00 Another fuel transfer and a quick round trough the engine room. Slava does his second round of the day.
The captain speeds the engines up to get closer to the NM, engine room alarms keep coming, and we run up and down to the engine room to adjust the cooling water flow to keep all the engine temperatures in range.
A last afternoon check is done and we go to the lounge to unwrap our Xmas presents.After diner one more fuel transfer for me and one more watch round for Slava.
Soon this day off will be over but fortunately.....we have New Year's to look forward to.
Unsung heroes
by Jeremy, onboard the Esperanza
Oils and coils, sumps and pumps, tubes and lubes. Welcome to the engine room, a place deep down in the ship, seen only by the engineers and the watch keepers. All other innocent bystanders hardly visit. The noise, the smells of oils, fuels and lubricants, the heat, the constant clicking and whirring, and the spaghetti like confusion of pipes, boxes, valves and pistons all adding to the surrealness of the engine room.
Engineers are a breed apart from the rest of the crew, with their own jokes and language. Their fingers stained black by oil and Van Nelle tobacco, their own un-official uniform of stripey shirts that they favour, their own oil covered dungarees with various instruments and tools in the pockets, and their own control room which doubles as an HQ, a gang hut, and a cinema. And in the evenings with the lights turned off and only the instrument panels and buttons for illumination their control room becomes a place worthy of any Frank Sinatra swooner lounge lizard.
To an engineer the engine room all makes perfect sense. A supplies B, which supplies C, which cools D, which is powered by E, and F, but if F isnt working we turn on G. When G is on, and its a Tuesday, on a full moon, we turn on all these valves and put our hands through holes in the floor to fiddle with unseen pipes and buttons, and to tap at dials and meters .
Somehow it all works. Somehow the engineers, who rarely appear out on the actions, who rarely get to come up on deck to enjoy the wonders and views of the oceans we sail through, keep the ship running, keep the speed up, keep us from sinking or drifting off the edge of the charts to a place where the winds blow, where demons stalk the lands and naked mermaids wait to entice us to a watery death.
30 December 2005
Hunter, not hunting
by Andrew, onboard the Esperanza
It was a pretty cool thing to see, a pod of whales swimming by on our port side, with the Nisshin Maru still in front of us - running at high speed. We weren't close enough to positively identify the whales. Their blow (spout) was about three metres high, bushy and easily visible. Possibly humpbacks, which are not yet on the whaler's menu (so to speak), but they do plan to take 50 of these endangered animals over the next two years.
This evening, just before our nihongo testo (Japanese test, some of us are taking lessons) another ship was spotted on the horizon. Word spread through the ship and soon everyone was on the bridge taking turns with binoculars. Several friendly bets were made over whether it was a spotter vessel or a hunter. You could really tell that not much had happened around here lately. As we approached the consensus turned to hunter, but not hunting and no dead whales in evidence. Odd to see it all of a sudden with no other hunters around. Still far in the distance, it turned on a course perpendicular to ours and headed off, leaving us to continue our chase of the factory ship.
As we were finishing up today's lesson in the mess I was struggling to pronounce "oomisoka" (New Year's Eve) correctly when word came of another surprise - the hunter had circled around and was right behind us.
So now who is chasing whom?
Inside the engine room
Another day without whaling
by Andrew, onboard the Esperanza
It seems likely the whalers are running either towards something or away from us. It is also possible this is all some sort of clever ruse on their part. Regardless, they run, we chase. There are not a lot of options left to us.
Meanwhile, life on board continues. We mustered today for one of our regular safety drills. I forgot all about it, and was almost caught shaving when the alarm bell rang. We also have another Japanese language lesson tonight, this one on food and drink. Very useful stuff to know if I ever visit Japan again (though not much call for it here in the Southern Ocean).
That's all for now, except... If you haven't told Gorton's to help us end whaling, now is a good time to do it (might as well wish them a Happy New Year while you're at it).
29 December 2005
News roundup - Whaling 'science' slammed
by Andrew, onboard the Esperanza
©Greenpeace/Sutton-Hibbert
The whalers offer a rebuttal.
Conservation Minister Chris Carter said under the programme now underway in the Southern Ocean, known as JARPA II, Japan was going to more than double the number of whales it killed."Those whales will be killed inside the Southern Ocean Whale Sanctuary and well outside Japan's own territorial waters," he said in a statement.
"For any nation to contemplate this kind of programme, it should at the very least have a robust scientific justification. Japan does not."
"This critique has been compiled by New Zealand's internationally respected whale experts. It demonstrates that the reasons Japan is using to kill whales in the Southern Ocean lack scientific credibility."
Their criticism of the whaler's 'science' echoes a Nature Magazine article from last June authored by Australian, US and Japanese scientists. That article calls the plan to hunt endangered fin and humpback whales, "particularly worrying", and goes on to say:
It is time for the IWC [International Whaling Commission] to review the provisions of the International Convention under which scientific whaling permits are issued. Science is stipulated as the basis of management procedures within the IWC. But the lack of a science-based regulatory process to manage scientific whaling, and the escalation of this whaling to commercial scales on the basis of poorly established and controversial scientific claims, challenge the idea that the IWC can deliver a robust framework for whale conservation or a sustainable whaling industry.
The article closes by noting:
Japan's scientific whaling programme yields considerable annual revenue from the commercial sale of whale meat, estimated at US$50 million earlier this decade; this will rise considerably as catches increase. The Japanese government provides annual subsidies of some further US$10 million for cetacean research. These revenues are invested in the maintenance and operation of the catcher/processor vessels in addition to the Japanese Institute of Cetacean Research that conducts the science associated with scientific whaling. The risk for Japan is that dependence upon these revenues could drive its quotas for scientific whaling, yet leave the real scientific questions unaddressed.
28 December 2005
Video evidence and putting distractions behind us
by Andrew, onboard the Esperanza
©Greenpeace/Sutton-Hibbert
What they don't want us talking about.
So, here is my promise to you, dear weblog reader, this time it will not work. This is the last time I'm going to talk about it. We've posted a complete video record of the entire incident from start to finish. Certainly the Esperanza was in an inconvenient position for them - just about where they would normally put their hunting vessel to transfer its dead whale. But from the footage it's easy to see that the Kyo Maru overtook the Esperanza from our port stern, and very deliberately turned into our ship. Frank (Esperanza captain) steered a steady course throughout those critical minutes, and clearly had the right of way.
Feel free to see for yourself...
Watch the video
Full extended version - All the footage of the incident shot by our heli team. (7.75 min.)
General footage from our first day of actions.
Read the accusations by "institute for cetacean research," the whalers' front group.
Read our statement on the incident.
Something is adrift...
by Lally, onboard the Arctic Sunrise
Then at 02:45 this morning the Nisshin Maru, the whalers 'factory ship' stopped. If the Nisshin Maru stops we stop and as our engines juddered to a halt the sudden sound of silence woke me from my sleep with a feeling that things, besides us, were adrift.
On arrival in the mess this morning I headed to a porthole for my usual check to see if the world was still there. I could see nothing so I wiped the glass to clear the condensation but it didn't budge. We had been enveloped by the thickest fog I have ever seen and everything outside of our little floating world had ceased to exist. Slightly reassured that zero visibility wouldn't be conducive to hunting whales I headed, toast in hand, to the bridge to check the situation regarding the end of the world. On arrival I discovered two red dots on the radar, one on either side of us. I left the bridge assured that we were not alone and the world was infact still there, or at least the bit I could see on the radar screen. I was not so happy with my discovery that the three hunter ships were nowhere in sight.
So for the next 12 hours, there we were, three little ships floating side-by-side in the silence and vastness of the Southern Ocean. As the fog slowly lifted it revealed the ghost-like creators of the red dots on our radar. On one side our sister ship the Esperanza and on the other the Nisshin Maru. The polar opposites of peace.
It's now 18:20 and a short while ago the Nisshin Maru set off again at full speed. There is still no sign of the hunter ships. And where the Nisshin Maru goes we go...
27 December 2005
Day four of no whaling
by Philster, onboard the Esperanza
The Nisshin Maru obviously short of a few hundred Antarctic Minke whales for ballast, her bow rising and falling a long way in these steep seas. There is some consolation in the fact that the crew on the whale "Research" ship are having a hard time in these conditions as well.
Christmas day was very quiet in the morning, many of us not sleeping so well. The bridge was abuzz however as a ship appeared on the radar in our shadow and made its way past us in big seas.
I missed all of this but at 0730 I watched the Sea Shepherd vessel at our side, painted all black and looking ominous in the wind waves and snow. Captain Frank radioed the crew of the Farley Mowat and wished them a happy Christmas as they slipped behind as we sped up to keep pace with the NM in these huge seas. That day the weather became a full force 10 on the Beaufort scale, going into almost a force 11. The wind gusting up to 66 knots, the seas over 12 meters, the tops curling over and breaking into an angry foam. Waves crashing over the ship.
Life remained quiet onboard except for some sad Christmas music coming from the lounge. People put the final touches on the Christmas presents they had made. Some of the crew were watching movies around the ship. The cooks little helpers had been busy helping in the galley.
It was a very quiet day for me, I didn't eat lunch. Caterina tried to point out that I could be seasick. I of course explained that couldn't be possible - an old sea dog like me doesn't get sea sick. I explained that it is a rare symptom that occurs to New Zealanders when they are not home for Christmas.
That evening we gathered in the lounge, super Joe rocked up as Santa and gave out the gifts that the crew had made each other. The standard of gifts was high I thought. Some people having put in a lot of time with their presents. At one point we took a wave and the ship rolled violently, Santa and several of the crew unceremoniously dumped on each other amongst laughter and the odd OW!. Celebrations went into the night. Another uncomfortable night, hard to stop everything from sliding or banging around. Wedged into my bunk with pillows on each side I am violently rocked to a disturbed sleep.
Boxing Day became a re-secure things day as we checked the ship. A boat on the top deck had moved a little, a liferaft had jumped off its cradle, a blade tiedown for "Tweety" had blown off. Otherwise everything was ship shape. Standing in front of the bridge at one point I leaned into the wind arms stretched convinced that was what flying felt like. The wind blowing so hard you couldn't get a breathe of air.
Today while standing watching the Nisshin Maru crashing through these waters, an adult Giant Petrel escorting us for a while, it still hadn't really stuck home that we were pursuing a ship in the Southern Ocean. Modern pirates hunting in what is supposed to be a whale sanctuary. At one point Jeremy, (the snapper) the photographer asked me to stay where I was to get my silhouette with the NM in the background. The icy cold wind tearing at your skin. I'm wearing a short-sleeved top and sleeveless jacket, still I don't complain because Jeremy is out there with me in the cold. Jeremy was on board the Mermaid when we spent the day with the hunters. Not once did he complain of the cold or that he was hungry, in fact as with me he didn't want to come back to the ship when we did that day. Some of Jeremy's amazing shots are on the web page I believe.
Just checked out my porthole, a giant iceberg heading north looms out of the fog. We are turning north, the Nisshin Maru has decided we are going that way for now. We think that they are trying to wear us out.
26 December 2005
Tsunami anniversary
by Philster, onboard the Esperanza
After watching the Southern Ocean the last 48 hours, several times having to go out in it to secure things, I will never cease to be in awe of the power of the Ocean.
It was this day 12 months ago that many people on the edge of the Indian Ocean felt the full force of the sea. On New Years Eve I drove north to Auckland to catch a flight the next morning to Singapore to join the Rainbow Warrior.
I had seen newspaper and television footage but nothing could compare or prepare us for what we saw.
We set sail the next day for Sumatra, to the regions closest to the epicentre to work with MSF (Doctors without Borders) in setting up field hospitals, water supplies and moving 500 tons of food and supplies. Most of it done by hand.
Greenpeace had no media on board, this was from the heart like all Greenpeace work, and this time we didn't need the world to know the crisis was happening, they already knew.
We witnessed the terrible destruction and still never could fully understand the immensity of the power of water. Coastal communities that relied on the ocean were gone. "The sea givith, the sea taketh back". We saw where waves had peaked at 30 meters travelling 400 nautical miles an hour removing anything in its path.
We worked with individuals who had pulled themselves into groups, who had lost family members. One had lost 17 of his family, one all 31 of his family members gone. My heart and thoughts go out to the people of Sumatra who after so much devastation still could find a smile, a wave and a "tere mikasi" (thank you).
I got ashore many times to meet the people when supplies were being distributed and drove inflatable boats around some of the worst areas, Blang Me, Banda Acheh, Medan. It occurred to me that the areas that still had mangroves complete, not destroyed for aquaculture survived the wall of water best. I trust that this lesson is never lost and while Greenpeace begins a campaign on the Life of the Oceans for a year we can remind people of the importance of looking after our coastlines.
The saying around Bandah Acheh, the area where most of the mangroves had been removed for aquaculture, was "what a pity". My New Year's resolution would be that in years to come the next generation aren't standing looking at a dying ocean, over-fished, polluted and devoid of whales saying "what a pity".
Mother Nature takes control
by Lally, onboard the Arctic Sunrise
We are in the middle of another huge force 10 storm, winds have topped 120 kilometers per hour and the ocean looks very angry indeed. Inspired by these circumstances I am lying in my bunk practicing a new horizontal typing technique that involves resting the laptop on my chest and propping my head at a 45 degree angle so that I look like I have tiny little arms and about six chins.
All the same feelings from the first three weeks at sea are back as we return to carrying out daily life as if living inside a giant washing machine. But this time there is one major difference. This time we have found the whalers and we all know that for as long as the storms keep up the whalers cannot hunt and if they cannot hunt then no whales will die.
So even though we are back to a life where making a cup of tea is an endurance test the storms simply don't feel so bad anymore. For now, Mother Nature has taken charge of things and once again life is no longer in our hands.
Whistling up a storm
by Andrew, onboard the Esperanza
After some investigation it was discovered that first mate Paul was seen whistling (badly) on deck the day before last - leading us to conclude this storm is probably his fault. Nice job Paul. Today we continue to egg the weather on with a reckless disregard for our own safety. We are hanging up the coffee mugs facing every which way (to catch the wind), taunting the sea with our last few bananas (it hates bananas), and of course have women on board (notoriously unlucky, at least according to Pirates of the Caribbean).
We also continue to follow the factory ship of the whaling fleet as it heads first this way and then that - describing a course of odd geometric shape here in what the lovely Southern Ocean.
Picture: Slava last night with his Christmas present (painted by Marc), and Mannes with his new pirate hat(made by Holly)
25 December 2005
Feliz Navidad from the Southern Ocean
by Andrew, onboard the Esperanza
File this one under the, "be careful what you wish for", heading. At the end of yesterday's update I said I hoped for the weather to get, "better or worse" so we could either effectively protest the whaling, or the sea would be too rough for the whalers to hunt. Well, my wish came true, and with a vengeance. We are in a full on Force 10 storm. Winds are at about 50 knots (57 mph/92 kph), gusting up to 60, the waves are easily 12 metres (40 ft) high, and our ship is rolling heavily with a shock like motion - lots of tilting with sudden lurches. So much of the water's surface has been stirred into frothy foam that outside it is a proper white Christmas.
While on the subject of Christmas, I want to take the opportunity to pass on our heartfelt holiday wishes to family and friends back home. On this day, we are all especially missing you. Also, a very Merry Christmas to all of our fellow sailors out here, enduring this storm: to the crew of the Arctic Sunrise (I hesitate to even think about how hellish today is for them); to the crew of the Sea Shepherd ship Farley Mowat (which arrived on the scene late last night); and even to the whalers - may they return safely to their own friends and families (though preferably without any more whale meat in their hold).
As for us, we continue our pursuit of the Nisshin Maru. Red and white Christmas hats are in good supply, Christmas music can be heard over the ships speaker system, and a truly heroic effort is underway in the galley (by Charles, Holly and a gang of helpers) to cook a holiday dinner that I suspect will be as tasty as it is memorable.
Best of all, it is yet another day without whaling. My new Christmas wish is for more weather just the same tomorrow (maybe even a bit nicer, no worse please, this is plenty rough enough thank you).
Peace,
Andrew
Philster's account of Day 2
by Philster, onboard the Esperanza
0540 I wake up light streaming through the porthole. It's a stunning day. I see a small group of Orcas as I open the deadlight, the cover over the porthole. The attempt to block out the light is in the hope of being able to sleep at all.
A cup of coffee and I am on the bridge as a catcher unloads the limp carcass of a recently swimming Antarctic minke whale. A trail of blood as she is winched about to be flensed, or for want of a better word Butchered.
The Arctic Sunrise is making her way towards the mother ship the Nisshan Maru with an inflatable in the water. I wake everyone at 06.30, "Good morning its six thirty and whales are being killed". The crew assemble in the mess. The sense of something is happening and we need to be out there is evident even through the blurry-eyed looks.
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Rough weather hunting
by Andrew, onboard the Esperanza
The sea is rough and white capped, the wind fierce. Maybe this is what they've been looking for. It was just a bit too brutal out today for us to be out in the boats, but not quite rough enough to stop them from whaling. It wasn't so much a question of safety on our part. Being out in weather this bad is not something you'd want to do, but it is something we would do. The problem essentially is that the hunting ships can cut through these choppy waters a lot better than our boats can drive over it - making it pretty near impossible for us to do our job of protecting the whales.
Visibility has also not been great, but for most of the day we could see the Nisshin Maru ahead of us. Late in the morning the first whale was caught. We were forced to watch through binoculars as a total of five minke whales were hauled up their stern ramp over the next hours. Our only consolation being that this is obviously not very good hunting conditions either.
Hopefully by tomorrow the weather gets either worse or better.
24 December 2005
But how will Santa find us?
by Lally, onboard the Arctic Sunrise
It is Christmas Eve on the Arctic Sunrise. The whaling fleet are still on the move, heading away from us at full speed and we are in pursuit. They have not stopped moving to hunt for over 24 hours so thankfully no whales have been killed.
By now at home most of us would have finished work early and be heading for the pub. I would probably be in Kenmare, Ireland and Mikey and I would have just packed away our little market stall after what would have been our busiest day of the year. Brightly coloured lights would be crisscrossing the streets, Christmas carols would be escaping from every shop doorway and we would be on route to a pint of Guinness, probably at Crowleys...then on to McCarthy's...the fire would be blazing and there might be someone playing an impromptu set of traditional music...
But this year things are somewhat different so I'll reset the scene...last night Anne the tinsel fairy payed us a visit and now the whole ship is very sparkly...In the hold 'Cannon in G' (my favourite piece of classical music ever) is playing at full blast. Barbara sits cross-legged on the floor splicing rope, Maite is carrying a bundle of yellow banner material towards the sewing machine and Mikey attaches poles to the newly stitched Gortons banners that are then put in a pile to await their turn at letting the world know about the whale killing activities of Gortons parent company Nissui.
Climbing the stairs to the bridge your hand will touch the prickliness of the bright pink tinsel that is spiralling up the handrail towards our Captain Arne and Third Mate Mathijs who are stationed on the bridge, cheerily guiding us safely through the increasingly choppy waters. Christmassy smells are already wafting from the galley as Emilse and Isha cook up a storm - lets hope not literally - for tonight we are having our Christmas dinner...
Noone knows what today - or any day for that matter - will bring. At any moment we could get the call that the whalers have stopped and hunting has resumed so we need to be ready for action, day and night. For now we will just keep on following them and await their next move with a secret hope that they just keep on running all the way back to Japan.
But Christmas Eve is Christmas Eve wherever you are and I for one am getting a bit excited as there are rumours that the Greenpeace press office has notified Santa of our exact geographical coordinates. My only real concern now is that we don't have a chimney.
Alain's account of Day 2, afternoon
Copyright Greenpeace/Davison
by Alain, onboard the Esperanza
It's around noon and time for Luke, Cat and myself to relieve the crew of the Billy G. to carry on all the good work they've done so far.
The Esperanza is following the Yushin Maru no. 2 that tries to get rid of our RIBs by sailing through the ice, the Billy G. comes back on board, we refuelled her, get some advice from the previous crew and here we go, launched in this astonishing landscape... First I couldn't believe being there, driving in the middle of these icepacks, trying to find a way in this labyrinth, Cat and Luke are sitting on the bow of the Billy G., pointing me the ice, and trying to find a path for the boat...
I'm struck by the beauty of the place, this quietness, peace and harmony that surround me, while we're sailing there...
The Yushin is still away from us and I have to drive carefully, don't want to damage the boat by hitting a piece of ice, on our way we met the Mermaid heading back to the Esperanza for refuelling and crew change, they waved us, wishing us good luck...
At least we're getting to the open water, the Yushin is going back to is hunting ground, we're behind them, catching up, we've to get as close a s possible of their bow, then we can cause a great disturbance to the harpooner with our pump. As we're getting closer to the ship, we can see the harpooner, behind his gun, in position, ready to fire, we cannot see the whale yet, but we know that she's around...
For some reason our pump is not running properly, while Luke is struggling to make it working, I have just one option left: getting in between the whale and the harpoon. Cat is guiding me, she's standing on a seat in front of me, looking behind what the Yushin Maru is doing and by hand signals telling me where to put our boat...
We can see the whale trying to escape, it's swimming desperately to avoid the harpoon, I just hope that we will be able to save her. They've a great advantage: they're higher on the water, therefore they have a better view, giving the gunner enough time to take a shot...
We're swinging from port to starboard, speeding up and slowing down trying to stay in front of the catcher while they're changing course and speed chasing the whale, the harpooner tries to fool us by swinging is harpoon from side to side and pretending taking an aim but every time we're at the right spot, so close to the whale that the gunner cannot get a clear shot. Thank you Cat...
But at some point I make a mistake, putting the boat in the wrong spot, I can see the gunner turning his weapon away from us and firing, the sound freeze everyone on board of the Billy G. we stare at each other desperate: we failed...
Then we realize that things are not going according to the plan for the Yushin Maru crew, and we can see them hauling the line rapidly, at the end: just the harpoon, the gunner didn't aim properly and missed is target... Smiles are back on our face, we saved this whale, I hope it will find some place to recover...
They reload their gun, and about 20 minutes later the hunt start again, this time our pump is running, and the Mermaid is with us, we get in position, the pump is making a screen in front of the harpooner, and once again we can see the whale trying to run away, we're thinking that they will not get this one, but then we heard the loud bang from the gun, another shot, a successful one this time (it's after watching the footage from the helicopter that we realized that there was a second whale in front of the Yushin Maru, the one they shot).
I witness one of the most awful scene of my life, one of the most peaceful animal on earth struggling for is life, they shot it four times with a rifle and didn't manage to finish the job of the harpoon, we tried to interfere with the Yushin crew while they were trying to bring the whale alongside their ship, but the whale was still breathing, and fighting for
life so we back off. It's agony last for 15 minutes at least...
The Esperanza calls us back, I'm making my way towards her, I can't tell our feeling, a mixture of sadness and anger...
The only thing that rise up my spirit this day: knowing that for 6 hours The Yushin Maru no. 2 couldn't manage to kill any whale, some kind of victory.
Alain
PS: There was a panel on the side of the Yushin Maru saying: "Greenpeace barbarian pirates", hmm...
23 December 2005
A chance long sought
by Nathan, onboard the Esperanza
Copyright Greenpeace/Davison
In my first blog post I wrote about how, 17 years ago, seeing footage from the first anti-whaling campaign led me into Greenpeace and, ultimately, to my involvement in this current campaign. I vividly remember pointing to the monitor with the tape running of an inflatable trying to thwart the harpooner, turning to my father and saying, "I want to do THAT". At the time, it was a dream. Today, that dream was finally realized.
Over the past month, the Billy G has been fitted with a high-powered fire-fighting pump, originally manufactured for mounting on a fire engine. The pump sends seawater down a pair of fire hoses on each side of the cockpit and through two pipes pointing straight up.
These pipes are tipped with tapered custom-built nozzles that shoot the water either straight up or out like a peacock tail. Working with the wind, the driver can then position the Billy G to send a wall of misty water up in front of the whaling boat's bow.
So today, we fired it up. The whaling boat was not pleased. With some finesse, we could position ourselves upwind and send water higher then their crow's nest, soaking the spotters, pilot and captain on their open perches. After taking a good twenty minutes of bridge soaking, courtesy of the Billy Greene Custom Whaling Boat Rinsing Service, the captain changed course for an ice field. Within a half an hour, the ice density in the water was increasing and it reminded me of the scene in the Star Wars movie where they enter the asteroid field: We were rocketing through a field of drift ice at nearly 20 knots, dodging all sorts of sizes of bobbing ice - ranging from basketball-sized chunks to house-sized pieces - while trying to keep the water on their crow's nest.
Often we had to be close and right off their bow. The ice density kept increasing. They started blasting their horn at us to signal their course changes, as they had to maneuver around the larger pieces as well. Then they stopped doing that, choosing instead to surprise us with sudden course changes.
Phil kept ahead and off their bow and helped us position the spray. It really was not easy to steer around ice everywhere while keeping an eye on the movements of the hunter ship and the positioning the water spray to land on their bridge. Phil earned some horn blasts as well, as he often had to cut across their bow to find his way through the ice in the lead and to keep an eye on us aside. But cutting across their bow didn't matter - they were intentionally using their bow to drive us to the side anyways.
Then the Yushin Maru #2 captain decided he'd up the ante; his next tactic was to drive the Billy G into the ice itself. He would constantly correct course to put large chunks of ice in our path while leaving himself just enough room to skirt by. Fair enough. We're faster - not by much but just enough - so we'd just increase speed, steer around, and be right back on him. He'd also change course to change the effect of the wind on our water trail. Fine: we'll come around the other side. He'd increase speed. We'd match him. He'd try to steer his stern into us. Fine, we'd move up on his bow more.
So the ante went up again. He steered into a huge field of pack ice. Pack ice is amazing stuff. Flat as a table, low on the water, and (if you're driving a boat with a relatively thin aluminum hull) uncomfortably dense. The hunter boat slowed considerably, but could essentially break through this ice with no problem. We could not. At times the ice was gathered in clusters meaning we had no choice but to fall in line on his stern and wait for an opening. At other times, we would navigate our own route - wandering our way through the maze of leads and false leads.
Finally, we earned the horn, and a lot of it. But keep in mind, HE chose to drive us into the ice field and drive me repeatedly into ice; if he was upset about poor visibility, he could chose to slow or halt.
This went on for four unrelenting hours. Into the pack ice, out of it, into drift ice, then into a little open water, then into more, new pack ice. Ice everywhere. Constant course changes. Having to turn around in dead-end leads to quickly retreat and fall back to their stern wake to follow their ice breaking. Skirting through gaps with inches on each side. Once we actually struck a shelf underwater and came to a full stop. Phil came to us and with his crew helped us to just barely get out in full reverse. Once, frighteningly, we hit a desk-sized piece straight on at good speed, jumping up and over it. But for all the ice, we came out unscathed.
The harpooner did come out to his perch. But he didn't stay there too long. He looked quite annoyed. And very wet.
We passed icebergs the size of mountains, basking in full, cold sunlight, just breathtaking. The churn of our drives and the ships propellers made the water a light, milky, iridescent cerulean blue and white stream within a deep, clear ultramarine sea. In my experience, it was an epic contest set in the most stunning natural amphitheater, beyond anything I could have ever imagined. It was, even less than a day after just experiencing it in reality, simply unbelievable. It was a dream, a real dream.
But the real dream-come-true part was that this hunter boat did not find or shoot a whale with us beside him. Everything he tried we foiled. Eventually we turned back only because we need to take on fuel for our boat and pump. We had gone almost 25 miles from the mothership with him, much farther than they will normally go from the factory ship to hunt. And he was empty handed.
For one day at least, I can say we faced off with a whaling captain, and thwarted him. It takes a massive effort to get a small boat like the Billy G to Antarctica to do this: it's a huge task to simply operate a ship like the Esperanza and all its support infrastructure. There's a complex web of communication and coordination woven between offices around the world. There has to be a link that goes all the way from the individual who eagerly sends us a donation all the way to us down here, using the equipment they bought us, eating the food they paid for, putting on the survival gear they donated.
Because of the efforts of the entire crew on this ship and all of the folks involved in Greenpeace worldwide who put this effort together and, most importantly, the supporters who give us what we need to make the effort, I was the very lucky soul to actually get behind the wheel and get a chance to protect these whales - 17 years after a dream was born. That truly moves me. It's such an honor to be given that chance, I find it hard to talk about without tearing up.
For me, that's what Greenpeace is about.
And we'll try it do it again tomorrow.
Merry Christmas to all. Thinkin' of ya.
Recalling Tuesday
by Philster, onboard the Esperanza
Copyright Greenpeace/Davison
The idea was made to get "Tweety" the Hughes 500 helicopter in the air to see if we could find the rest of the fleet. Several flights later 7 am rolled around and we were none the wiser as to where the fleet must be. The Arctic Sunrise headed our way in the meantime. We had looked behind every iceberg - some resembling mountain ranges that had broken off and left to drift. All the while navigating around what I have labelled "bull in a china shop" ice. An odd array of intricate pieces of ice carved by nature that resemble ornate crystal strewn about the ocean.
We continues to search until exhausted we drifted for the night. The sauna begged to me and I heeded its call. Outside the sunset the, longest ever as it came to the horizon, ever so slightly dipping below the horizon then bouncing back into the sky. I thought of NZ way to the north of us and wondered how summer was shaping up.
7.30 wake up this morning....... a the thick Scottish accent of the photographer on board came, "good morning Phil, there is a Japanese catcher boat coming towards us. Do you copy?" I copy. 2 minutes later I am dressed on the bridge coffee in hand. Not to many others up yet. There, well you would normally say 'She' when talking about ships, but with her strange outline... because "it" was purpose built for one thing. To race through the "bull in the china ship ice", past ice seeming the size of small nations, weaving behind an Antarctic minke whale that has strayed into the "Research" path of the Whalers. Spotting a target from the flying bridge of the catcher, the gunner walks forward and with the whale's last breaths, lactic acid coursing through its veins, the harpoon brings about its demise. Insane to think that this is happening in The Southern Ocean Whale Sanctuary.
Tweety gets off the deck, I've indicated with two raised arms that Hughie the Pilot is no longer connected to the deck and away he goes. Flying into the distance the radio call comes.
"We've spotted the Nisshan Maru" Yes!!! We found the whalers in an ocean twice the size off the United States. Tweety comes back and picks up the Photographer and Videographer who from the air, manage to film a whale being shot. The hunt is on. We launched four inflatable boats and the Captain Frank takes the Esperanza to the stern (back) of the Nisshan Maru. The Kyo Maru the oldest of the catchers and the one that I boarded in 1998 (a story for another time) has a dead Antarctic minke lashed to her rail. She makes three attempts to pass us from behind and on the port side. The Kyo Maru nudges us each time until the fourth attempt when she blatantly crosses our bow. A very aggressive manoeuvre to get into position to be able to unload the dead whale strapped to her side so they could go and get another one. The killing boats lining up to take their turn to unload their catch.
Meanwhile the struggle with the Kyo Maru continues as the inflatables try to impede the transfer. One boat comes out the back of the melee upside down her crew climbing onto the upturned boat. Frantic waving on the bridge wing by me caught the eye of one of our boats and they went back to look after the wet crew. Another boat gets caught up and spins around and is being dragged backwards through the water. The crew from the catcher continue to hose them and hit them with boat hooks until the line is cut and they drift out the back, the engine underwater. The whale is released, the Kyo Maru cuts sharply to starboard in search of the next kill and the minke is seen dragged unceremoniously backwards, blood spilling from the mouth up the ramp of the mother ship with "Research" written on the side.
In amongst the craziness I noticed two pods of Orca's. We pulled back and collected the boats and licked our wounds. The Whalers now knew we were here, and that we mean business. We pack up, dry off and make ready for the next day. Suddenly the solitude of harvesting whales had been broken. A total of 8 inflatables and both the Arctic Sunrise and the Esperanza all behind the Nisshan Maru, her loud speakers warning Greenpeace, with the captain's voice, "Stay away from our ship or we will have to hose you down". A sign at her stern says, "Greenpeace misleads you". It was the longest day alright, summer solstice, I mean.
The hunt came to a halt shortly afterwards and the four whalers and two Greenpeace ships drifted close by until the morning.
It's Research. Honest gov'ner
by Lally, onboard the Arctic Sunrise
Copyright Greenpeace/Davison
The second thing that doesn't ring true is the choice of word. I don't mean to be funny but what bit of the word 'research' don't the Japanese government or the whaling company understand? It only took me a moment to look it up in a dictionary:
Research; Diligent and systematic inquiry into a subject in order to
discover or revise facts.
No matter how you look at it, the killing of whales here in the Southern Ocean Whale Sanctuary (maybe they should look up 'sanctuary' as well?) is not for research. It's for cold hard cash.
Being the diligent and systematic creature that I am, I've done a bit of my own research into the Japanese Governments' research and have discovered some really interesting facts. Did you know they claim that whales eat three to six times what the entire world's fisheries catch each year and that whales are endangering global fish stocks?! (No I'm serious, they really say this). And when invited to discuss this claim with the International Whaling Commission (IWC) the entire Japanese Government and all its scientists were a bit busy and couldn't make it. What really doesn't add up is if they are concerned with whales scoffing all the fish why have they killed over 5000 minke whales to 'research' what's in their stomachs when anyone who knows anything about whales already know that minkes mainly eat krill, which are tiny little shrimp-like creatures. From where I'm standing 5000 dead minke stomachs containing a whole lot of krill is pretty conclusive evidence that the minkes are not the guilty party in the 'who ate all the fish?' debate.
I also discovered that the 'scientists' who decide which whale 'research' projects should take place not only write their own proposals they also assess how good they think their proposals are and personally decide if what theyve proposed should go ahead. Then, once the 'research' has been completed the same scientists help review their own findings. This process is totally unheard of in the rest of the scientific world. I guess it's just coincidence that their 'research' ALWAYS results in dead whales and these same whales make them around 50 million US dollars a year from the sale of whale meat.
The whaling companies and the Japanese government also insist their 'research' programs are carried out on behalf of the IWC. But if you ask the IWC theyll say this is a bit of a fib as it hasn't asked for and doesn't need or want their data. The IWC has also repeatedly asked the Government of Japan to stop it and is worried that it's being undermined. Too boomin' right it's being undermined. The whaling companies are exploiting a loophole left over from when the IWC was set up back in 1946 that states whaling for research is ok. Again, what bit of the word 'research' dont they understand?
The fact remains that just because you repeat a lie a thousand times doesn't make it true, even if you do paint it in gigantic letters on the side of your ship.
Please join us and become anOcean Defender and do whatever you can to help stop this crazy and unnecessary killing.
Heading north - whaling stopped for now
by Andrew, onboard the Esperanza
After two days of successfully hindering their operations, the whalers have left the fertile hunting ground of the ice edge. All night they went north, a bit west, then north again.
Only yesterday we were south of 66 in pretty ideal hunting grounds. The whalers have fled further North and I can tell you it is not as good an area for whaling. The seas are a bit rougher, - making it harder to spot whales - and (just from casual observation) there do not seem to be as many of them.
We'd like to think the their decision was thanks to our work. Despite some brutal setbacks we did have two good, effective, days. We've got a lot more resources this time around, and during our actions yesterday saw quite a few whales escape.
Of course, we have no way to know why they've set this course. Maybe they are following some sort of set schedule, planned in advance. Or perhaps it is some sort of cunning ruse. They have cleverly let us have a sleep in. Who knows? Maybe they have decided to pack it in, and return to Japan. That would be nice. I'm already picturing myself in a sushi restaurant, drinking sake and trying to figure out which pieces of fish aren't threatened species.
They only thing I know for sure is that we are chasing, and as of 8:00 a.m. (ship's time) they are not hunting.
UPDATE 21.00 hrs ship time.
Still chasing the whaling fleet factory ship the Nisshin Maru - no whales killed today.
A different point of viewing...
by Kate, onboard the Arctic Sunrise
Copyright Greenpeace/Davison
I am struck again, over and over, by the beauty of this place. The majesty of the scenery, the awesome towering forms of ice, the solitude of this remote wilderness, the serenity of life here and yet... and yet we are here, I am here, the whalers are here. Disrupting, disturbing, killing, taking. I can see for miles and miles around. Beauty. Untouched wilderness. Peace. This should be a peaceful place. Undisturbed by me, us, them.
Copyright Greenpeace/Davison
It is difficult to witness the death of an animal. I think. Though I have before; on farms, in abattoirs, my cat when she got old and we had to take her to the vet. So what is it here and now about the death of a whale, many whales, that I am so affected that I struggle to find the words to accurately describe the emotion? Senseless killing. That is what I want to say. This is not science or research or even commerce. This is wanton destruction of a majestic animal that lives and breathes and exists in this place of wondrous beauty.
But I leave to you to work out the why and the how and the how can it be halted. What I will tell is two stories from my point of viewing.
For six hours, more, our inflatable boats stuck to one of the catcher ships, getting in between the harpoon and countless whales. Frustrating the harpooner by obscuring his view, forcing him to miss several times even if he got a shot off at all. And then one time he doesn't miss. From the helicopter I see it all. We have spotted the whale almost before the catcher. You see the blow first and then the slow rolling movement of its back and dorsal fin above the water before it dives again into its own world where we cannot follow. There is a moment of exhilaration at seeing this wild creature that soon dissipates as the catcher ship alters course to the direction of the whale. The next time it surfaces... boom... the harpoon is grenade tipped and the noise is startling. But that is not the end of the story. The whale dives, injured, mortally wounded; but not dead. Taught line runs from the bow of the catcher to the harpoon in the whale. I follow the line to see where will it surface. This is not the first kill I have witnessed - that was at around 8 this morning - but it is the bloodiest struggle of a dying life form that I have ever seen. The whale surfaces, almost as if it could breach the surface of the water were it not for the harpoon in its back, blows (breathes) and dives again. Blood in the water. Again it surfaces, thrashing and blowing; again it dives. Its strength sapped, it surfaces once more. A man comes to the bow with a rifle. He fires. Once, twice. A pause. It's still alive. Thrashing around in the water. Blood and foam. He fires again, I don't know how many times. My awareness is this whale. Dying in the water that is now red from its own blood, and still it lives. It lives as the whalers loop a line around its tail and move its bloodied body from the bow to their midships. It lives as they secure it alongside for the transit they will now make to their factory ship. 'Why don't they just kill it', I hear myself say into the heli-mike to anyone who is listening.
The other story that I want to tell starts in exactly the same way. From our helicopter following the catcher and our inflatables in the water, we spy whales. So close to the hunters on their port side that I am holding my breath. We are in the ice. The water is so clear here that I can see the whales beneath the surface. I count one, two, four, five... there are young here... a family group. I am braced for the ensuing drama, my camera poised to document what is to come. But the catcher maintains its course. The earth moves around the sun and the pod of whales that we have spotted disappear under the ice.
In peace.
22 December 2005
Rotating penguin story
by Andrew, onboard the Esperanza
Thought I'd include this since my last post was such a downer. I heard it from Nathan, and checked with a couple witnesses. To set the scene, the Yushin Maru was pushing through a lot of loose pack ice to try and shake our boats off. Nathan (driving the Billy G.) did the best he could to stay out in front, but the thin aluminum hull of his boat isn't exactly suitable for icebreaking.At one point he gets trapped in a pocket of open water beside the whaling ship. In the middle of this sort of pond is a flat piece of ice with a very surprised looking penguin on it. The little guy probably had no idea what to make of any of these large noisy things passing by, and was obviously taken aback by the whole spectacle. Nathan was already closer to the penguin than he wanted to be, but didn't have a choice. The penguin, apparently also searching for options, made a tactical decision to turn around and pretend Nathan wasn't there - perhaps thinking, "If I can't see him, he can't see me". To keep moving though Nathan had to drive in a circle around the ice floe. As he did, the penguin rotated to keep him out of sight.
Finding a clear lead forward, Nathan drove off. Glancing back though he saw the penguin staring after him with a look Nathan swears said, "Hey wow, that actually worked!"
Usual suffering
by Andrew, onboard the Esperanza
Greenpeace opposes commercial whaling because it is a direct threat to the existence of already imperilled species. That is the whole reason we are down here. But being down here and watching these harpooned animals thrash about; I realize that the suffering of individual whales is another undeniable fact. The whalers, of course, would like you to believe their hunt is conducted humanely. That's not true. Although sometimes the harpoon finishes the whale, I doubt there is any practical way to consistently kill animals this large without their suffering.
Today, when the crew of the Yushin Maru finally made their kill, a whaler with a rifle came out and shot the whale several times to finish it off. Our activists backed off and let him do his work. They wanted to interfere, but even more they wanted an end to the whale's pain. When the whaler finished shooting, they moved back in to try and delay the whaler's work - only to back off again realizing the animal was still breathing.
I don't fault the marksmanship of the whaler. For all I know he's an ace shot. But the whale kept breathing. Even when the whalers got ropes around the tail and hauled it vertical the whale was still alive - now upside down, partially underwater, it's tail still thrashing, trying to "surface" for a breath. In all, it took over fifteen minutes for this whale to die.
You can help end this. Become an Ocean Defender.
Tell Gorton's to help us put a stop to commercial whaling.
Whales saved, whale lost
by Andrew, onboard the Esperanza
A strategy we've employed over the years is putting our small boats between the whale and the harpoon. Simple and effective, but not effective enough. So we've added a twist. We've put a fire pump on the Billy G. The pump connects to pipes sticking straight up from the at the back of the boat - creating a shield of water 15 metres high, making it hard for the harpoon gunner and even the whale spotters in the crow's nest to see their target.All morning, Nathan (driving the Billy G.) and Philster (driving the Mermaid) dogged the Yushin Maru No. 2 - the newest ship in the whaling fleet. The Yushin tried to shake them off by driving through pack ice. Normally this would have worked. Few people would venture into an ice field unless they were driving an ice class ship with a strengthened steel hull. They definitely wouldn't want to be caught in the ice in something made out of rubber and aluminium. On the other hand, our boats weren't going to let a little frozen water get between them and the whales we're out here to protect.
So in they went - dodging around chunks of ice, finding clear leads, and as a last resort dropping behind the Yushin to ride in its wake, then darting forward when in the clear. No matter what it did, the hunter couldn't shake them, and its crew was too distracted to even try for any whales. At one point, from the Esperanza, we saw a whole family of minke whales go by - four or five in total - without the whalers even noticing. It felt good watching them swim past to our starboard, and off into the distance.
Finally, the Billy Greene had to come in for refuelling and a crew change. Nathan, Joe and Nico climbed off, and Alain (driver), Luke and Cat jumped on. Within minutes they were away again. Meanwhile, the the Mermaid had held down the fort. Philster still had gas and wanted to stay out there, but Frank (captain) called him back. So Philster and Odin switched with Jetska (driver) and my cabin mate Slava. The switch took some time though, while Marc (boat mechanic) made a minor repair.
Meanwhile, the Yushin had found a whale, and the fire pump on the Billy G. wasn't starting. Every time the whale surfaced, Alain put the boat right up near it. On the whaling ship, the grenade tipped harpoon was in place, and the gunner ready. Thankfully, he wouldn't take the shot with our people in the way. He kept trying to fake them out though, swivelling the gun around and pretending to take aim - hoping Alain would swerve out of position. But Alain stayed focused, and his crew got the pump working. The Yushin was swerving about like crazy though, and the whale diving out of sight then surfacing. At one point Alain misjudge what spot to be in. The harpooner spun far to starboard. For a moment, he had a clear shot with our boat well out of the way. He took it. There was a bang, the harpoon flew and for a second I thought the chase was over. But it was a miss. The whale resurfaced and dove once again.
Then, at last, the Mermaid arrived on the scene. Watching from the bridge, I was positive the whale's safety was now assured. But by now the whale was clearly exhausted. And in the end, our boats could not protect it. The harpooner got another clear shot, and this one hit home. After that there was little we could do.
Upsetting at the end, but overall a good day. Normally the whale hunters stay within about eight miles of their factory ship, and in waters so full of whales usually kill one after another. Today, we shut this one down for six hours, traveling over 25 miles. Tomorrow, we will try again to (we hope) protect every last whale.
Eye to eye with a dying whale
by Mikey, onboard the Arctic Sunrise
First thing this morning around 7.30am we were in our inflatable boat the African Queen racing towards the whale hunting vessel, the Kyo Maru that had its harpooned manned. Just as we got to its bow the harpooned fired and the whale was struck just below her (she looked very feminine) left fin. Our mouths dropped as we watched the harpoon line zigzagging in the water with the whale writhing like a fish caught on a fishing line hook for a good five minutes, meaning that the neither the harpoon nor the explosive device had killed her.
Our eyes and hearts could not believe what we were seeing as the whale repeatedly lunged out of the water a few metres in front of our inflatable. She was trying to swim away and stay on the surface to breathe but the harpoon and vicious wound in her side was pulling her down. For a moment when she looked straight at us, I saw straight into and through her eyes and could see her mouth gaping open appearing to let out a sound. She looked at us with immense suffering and fear and I knew that she was asking; "Why is this happening? Please help me."
It took two gunshots to her head from a crewmember onboard the hunter ship before she succumbed. The moment was filmed on camera forever and in our minds for a very long time - and I truly hope that no one ever has to view it. The merciless, violent brutality of this whale hunting is beyond comprehension. For the rest of the day I have been fighting back tears and afraid to sleep as then the silence will bring back the visual reality of this morning's horror.
Later on Mathijs and I swerved through the ice packs blocking the Kyo Marus harpoon fire for three hours. Finally the harpooner got his kill just 10 metres off our inflatables right side. It was one of three whales swimming together and by the look of it one of them was a baby. We had been protecting and praying so hard that these whales would swim under an iceberg or something. I managed to climb on top of the dead whales body when it finally surfaced and held its fin for a while before being blasted off by fire hoses. Then along came a small iceberg so I jumped on it and floated out of range of the fire hose jets coming from the Kyo Marus bow. I must admit the look of dismay I had on my face when I looked up at the whaling crew and they were looking down at Mathijs and I with smugness and laughter.
Heaven and hell
by Isha, onboard the Arctic Sunrise
This morning has been the worst morning of my life, undoubtedly. Cruel, heartless and cold blooded! The whalers after a long chase with our inflatable in its way...finally got the whale...took its life and will shamelessly sell it in a market for a fat price... While sailing here I knew we were in heaven. But now a living hell.
What is heaven, a place where all beings life in peace and harmony, and hell is where our desire rules over all life.
Here is the hell where we will mercilessly kill the gentlest giants in their homes while they take a walk perhaps. I wondered who else on this planet kills whales except people...no one...except maybe killer whales --but hey, that's the cycle -- How have we put our selves in that place? How do the Japanese whalers sleep at night? How do we rest knowing that this has to stop --NOW I was standing at the bow for over an hour watching them chase the whale 'till it was so tired it couldn't run anymore...couldn't think any more...probably didn't know what was happening. Innocence against greed... In our world how does greed get away with it...in the name of science -- Science, research such cold words Life, freedom --meaningless I want another world for all of us -- I want it now before more creatures are plundered -- I want the Japanese whaling fleet to go home now. This is my prayer... Om shanti Isha
And then there were two...
by Lally, onboard the Arctic Sunrise
When I saw my first whale in the wild I cried joy-filled happy tears. I also cried today when I saw a family of three minke whales, one of them a baby, all swimming along together. But this time I can't stop crying, I can hardly breath and it feels like my heart is being strangled in my chest, for I have just witnessed the violent death of a creature so sublime, so exquisite and of such wordless beauty that I am now numbed by the extremity of my own selfish pain.
I was standing in the sun and icy wind on the bow of the Arctic Sunrise. Just ahead of us the whale hunter ship the Kyo Maru was in pursuit of the three minkes which were just swimming along doing what they do, heading somewhere with their own plan, for their own reasons.
Spirits were high onboard as already today our tiny little inflatable boat had foiled the whalers attempts to harpoon at least two different minke whales, both of which had escaped and disappeared into the pack ice. The hunter ship may be bigger and faster than our little boat but no matter how many fancy moves it made there was just no shaking us off...and then out of nowhere the three minke whales appeared and rather than the usual squeals of joy heard when whales are sighted, a tangible and almost visible shadow of dread descended...one boat and three whales...suddenly we needed a miracle.
For over half-an-hour the inevitable was postponed but there was no way to cover and protect all three whales. I stood on the bow of the Sunrise physically and emotionally frozen but with child-like hopes shimmering in the back of my mind. Maybe the whales would decide to turn 180 degrees and disappear? Maybe they would hold their breath longer than we ever thought possible and swim away unseen...
The grenade-tipped harpoon exploded like a cannon as it hit one of the whales. It hurt my ears and its fading echo was replaced by a primal cry escaping from my soul through my mouth accompanying the cries of the two other crew standing near me. I can only thank god that I cannot hear the cries coming from that sacred and exquisitely beautiful creature that was now being dragged from the water, away from its family and away from life...
Bearing witness
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Day 2 - boats away
by Andrew, onboard the Esperanza
Our two main boats, the Mermaid and the Billy G. launched at about seven this morning. Their first job was interfering with the transfer of a whale to the factory ship by the Yushin Maru number 2 (whale hunting ship). The whalers also brought one of their spotter (observer) ships in as a blocker. Frank kept the Esperanza well clear.
Afterwards, two Esperanza boats chased the Yushin through a field of scattered ice, and are now taking turns driving in front of it to get between the harpoon gun and any whales. This is perhaps the oldest of our tactics, but still effective. We've added a new twist to it though. More on that after I get a chance to talk to the boat crews.
Meanwhile the Arctic Sunrise launched a boat to also help hinder the transfer. Their boat then went to chase after a separate hunter.
Bump on the head
by Po-Paul, onboard the Arctic Sunrise
I still see myself in front of a classroom explaining to kids the basic philosophies of Greenpeace: Bearing witness, independence, apolitical and non-violence. Once in a while, after seeing pictures of tortured activists, one of them would come up with a question like:" Would you hit them back." I have always used the Gandhi catchy phrase:" An eye for an eye makes the world go blind". Today it just made more sense.
21 December 2005
Kisses from the Kyo Maru
by Andrew, onboard the Esperanza
I should start by saying this is something we've wanted to do for years (at least I have), but we needed a ship as manoeuvrable as the Esperanza to do it safely. I'll also need to explain a bit about how the whaling process works: Three ships go out hunting. When they harpoon a whale they tie it alongside, and bring it to the factory ship. A cable from the factory ship is used to pull the whale up its stern ramp. The whole transfer process happens at about 5 knots (6 mph/9 kph). More importantly, if the whale is tied along the port (left) side of the hunter, then the ship has to be positioned behind and a bit to starboard (right) of the factory ship before they can transfer the whale.
Today, Frank parked the Esperanza right about where the hunter ship wanted to be - approximately 100 metres (roughly 100 yards) behind the factory ship. Close enough to wreck havoc with their transfer process, but far enough back to stay safe.
After pushing through our boats the Kyo came alongside the Esperanza from the stern, and very deliberately steered right into her. People on board the Esperanza tell me our whole ship shook at the bump, although I don't think it was intended to cause damage. While the crew of the Kyo turned their fire hoses on our ship, their helmsman backed off and came in again - most likely trying to push the Esperanza out of the way. But the Esperanza is quite a lot bigger and more solid than our rubber and plastic boats. The whaling ship couldn't move her. As he had during the entire incident, Frank steered a steady course.
The only comical aspect I have heard about this whole dangerous episode, was John's report of a lone Kyo deckhand, futilely running around with a fender, trying to cushion the impact.
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Safety fears in the Southern Ocean
by Andrew, onboard the Esperanza
I was trying to think of where I had seen this sort of thing before, and then it hit me - bicycling.
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Finding the whaling fleet
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A nice day for swimming...in Antarctic waters
by Mikey, onboard the Arctic Sunrise
Suddenly a whaling hunter vessel with its whale catch attached to its port (left) side was moving in to position to transfer its catch to the Nisshin Maru and moving fast towards us on our little Nouvarinas port side. So we quickly put on the throttle and aimed to cross her bow before she moved into position for a whale transfer process. This was so that we would not catch the swell coming off her fast, hard turns in the water and to get ahead of her so that we would be amongst the transfer process rather than be left behind in the choppy wake.
With the fire hoses spraying us, whale blood spray coming out of the outlet holes on the Nisshin Marus hull and little iceberg bits in our path, the situation was a bit hairy. Next thing I know I feel our inflatable rolling over on to its right side steeply like it was floating in midair (which I think we may have been) and I knew the boat had crossed its point of no return and was going to flip. So instinctively I dived out of the boat to clear its hull as it was flipping over.
It happened so quickly that I did not even have a chance to look around to Mathijs who was driving, to say something along the lines of "Mama Mia". My last memory before over-turning was a hunter vessel heading towards us and so I thought to myself 'surface, see where it is and doggie paddle outta here!' As soon as I hit the water I covered my head and realised my survival suit hood was not on and letting icy water in. As I surfaced I was looking for Mathijs and trying to grab a line from the upturned inflatable in the water.
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What a difference (a month and) a day makes ...
by Lally, onboard the Arctic Sunrise
Yesterday our two ships split up to increase our search area and the Esperanza spotted the whaling fleet this morning at 07:30. So we headed at full speed towards her and towards the whalers.
Our ship was a hive of activity and anticipation and she shuddered with the extra exertion of 'full speed ahead'. When we arrived our captain immediately called the Nisshin Maru over the radio and asked them to leave the Southern Ocean Whale Sanctuary and return to Japan or we would start 'non-violent direct action' to stop them killing whales. There was no response. So without delay our four inflatable boats and their crews were lowered into the water ready to meet up with the four others simultaneously launching from our sister ship.
The plan was simply to form a circle round the Nisshin Maru with our flags and banners - written in 10 different languages including Japanese - flying high to let them know in no uncertain terms that we have arrived and we mean business.
And for about three seconds everything went according to plan. What spoiled the plan was the arrival of one of the three hunter ships to transfer a dead whale to the Nisshin Maru for 'processing'. So we did what any self-respecting 'Ocean Defenders' would do. We tried to stop them.
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A rough first day
by Andrew, onboard the Esperanza
We found them -- full story here.
All boat crews have returned safely to both the Esperanza and Arctic Sunrise - frankly, no thanks to the whalers. Very aggressive and fairly dangerous behavior on their part. We kept our cool though, and slowed down the hunt as best we could. Details coming. No whaling as I write this, but could start at any time. First thing I need is a bite to eat in case we have to get back out there.
Speaking the same language
By Seigo, aboard the Arctic Sunrise
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20 December 2005
First contact - one spotter spotted
by Andrew, onboard the Esperanza
It was indeed a ship. Very far off. Just on the visual horizon. Drifting. As yet, unidentified. The time was shortly before 2:00 a.m.
The whaling fleet consists of three hunter ships, a factory ship, and two spotter (observation) ships that range far from the others. The spotter vessels are used to chart the ice edge, look for whales, make observations, and (in the past) track Greenpeace ships so the rest of the fleet can avoid us and keep working.
This one is a spotter vessel. The last thing we wanted to find, or rather, the last thing that we wanted to find us. By the time we are close enough for a positive ID, they have surely seen us. Frank (captain), now on the bridge, immediately called for the helicopter crew (already awake and standing by) to get aloft to look for the rest of the fleet. Engineers were also woken, to prepare for maximum speed. Spare hands scanned the horizon.
Game on, advantage whalers.
(Post written 3:40 a.m. ship time)
Still haven't found what we're searching for
by Andrew, onboard the Esperanza
Nothing, nada, zero, zip - That is the total number of whaling fleets we found overnight. Only the spotter vessel, which tells us very little. Hughie got some sleep, but is back in the air as I write this. He is one of the very few people on board that gets a private cabin so he can be as well rested as possible. Helmut (heli mechanic), and the rest of the heli ops team have also been busy keeping things running smoothly.
Although we haven't found the whalers, I am feeling more optimistic now than I was this morning. For whatever reason, the spotter vessel decided not to follow us. Maybe they don't care if we find the fleet or not. In the end, we are left in more or less the same position we were 24 hours ago. We know the whaling fleet is operating somewhere in the Southern Ocean Whale Sanctuary, but that is about all we can say for sure.
Early morning search continues
05:16 a.m. - No one has been to sleep. Hughie has been flying throughout these last hours of the night searching for the whaling fleet. We wait anxiously from the bridge, keeping our own look out. Do we follow the spotter ship or will it only lead us away from the hunters and factory ship? I am glad not to have to make such a decision.
For now, Hughie will get some food (Charles woke up on instinct and seeing half the crew at work, made sandwiches), and a little rest. Then he must search some more. It is quite possibly now or never.
If you have any information about the location of the whaling fleet, anonymous tips are welcome - email hunt-the-hunters@greenpeace.org.
Icebergs
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From far South
by Nathan, onboard the Esperanza
©Greenpeace/Sutton-Hibbert
I hate to be such a boat obsessed geek, but the biggest news from here - as far as I'M concerned at least - is that, after a solid month of work, I think the Billy G. is finally fully ready to go get 'em. A lot of work has been done, but I can't tell you much about it 'til we engage the whalers. The boat came to Cape Town in fine shape, but fitting it for the specifics of THIS work, both in terms of making her match up with the ship operations as well as tricked out for the whalers, made for a long list of things to do. For those of you who know the boat, I think you'd raise an eyebrow over what she looks like now. As we say around here, she's been "Monster Garaged". I still want to paint flames on her somewhere, but I'm thinking my colleague Dan might not be too keen on that...and don't worry Dan: we did all of it with very few little alteration to the boat itself.
More of the crew has had time at the wheel and many have gushed afterward about just how fine a boat she is, in her handling and stability (we took her out on a pretty rowdy day again for about four hours last week and had a wild, wet, good time working against the ship. This time, neither the boat nor any of the crew took much of a beating). I've probably said it before, but I just love this boat. I enjoy working with all of our equipment, but it's cool when you get to work with something in a way where you've covered almost every inch of it at some point and come to know it almost personally.
Birdwatchers Anonymous
by Lally, onboard the Arctic Sunrise
Its time I came clean about something. I know this is going to come as a bit of a shock to my friends and family but I feel its something you all need to know and something I feel the need to share. My name is Lally and I am a bird watcher.
There Ive said it. Its out and theres no taking it back. The fact is I love bird watching and at home Im often found, binoculars in hand gazing out the window at the feathered friends that visit my garden. (I use the word friends lightly as I have to bribe them with nuts and various other bird treats.) Reading this my Mother will be wringing her hands having tried for years to guide me into appreciating the finer points of the strapy Gucci sandal - are birdwatchers even allowed to wear Gucci?
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19 December 2005
What a wonderful world - it is!
by Isha, onboard the Arctic Sunrise
Isha
What an amazing year it's been for me January 2005 Sumatra, June 2005 Greenland, and now in the Southern Ocean. Which freak gets to go to the Arctic for summer and then onto Antarctica for summer in the same year? Two cold summers in one year??? At Greenpeace one never knows what one's going to get. But I can bet on it you can't get it anywhere else.
I was shrieking in Greenland at the littlest iceberg. I am silenced here The ocean is so mighty, making me feel so small. The birds that fly around us make me feel trapped The sun is as distant as land. I tried asking Arne our captain how big the Southern Ocean really is. And he just shrugged somebody surely has it figured out he said I was left staring at the map, following the Southern Ocean stretching along the planet uninterrupted. Wild mighty ocean, the mother of them all... I am but a tiny little creature awestruck.
Life on board is strange...its not like sailing to anywhere else the Southern Ocean churns, churning all the water and air...and us. Quite literally and not just physically.
Sleep eluding us all makes us raw tender... The mind and heart too swim around... too much work just trying to keep a thought in place...hats off Lally...you doing your blogs in bad weather!!!
But how the balance returns once the sea calms How can we forget that we are a part of this magnificent act of creation? We are living it Breathing it Every moment.
I wouldn't be anywhere else in the world right now, no matter what. So bring on the hardship, bring on the struggle...for no beauty comes without some pain.
From the Arctic Sunrise
Isha
Awestruck cookie!
Did Christopher Columbus wear a Rolex?
by Jeremy, onboard the Esperanza
©Greenpeace/ADavies
"No thanks, I've already got plenty."
"Join a ship, see the world get away from it all", or so the travel brochure which constitutes part of my brain said to me. So I did. I signed up. I happily agreed to become one of the crew (the photographer) aboard the Esperanza, sailing to the mighty, forbidding, remote corners of the Southern Ocean.
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My favourite whale facts
by Andrew, onboard the Esperanza
Although some people confuse whales with fish (because they both live in the water), whales are actually mammals. Yes, crazy as it sounds, whales are more like humans than fish. They are warm blooded, have four chambered hearts, have hair (though not much), breathe air, nurse their young and usually only give birth to one calf at a time. (Baby whales are called calves.)
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Part sea, part sky
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I think I'm learning Japanese... I really think so!
by John, onboard the Esperanza
©Greenpeace/Sutton-Hibbert
John with his makeshift blackboard
We have just finished my 'Introduction to Japanese', clearing the tables in the mess (dining room) for a classroom after the evening meal. I was really surprised at the amount of interest shown by the crew about a third of whom managed to find time to come (dont forget that som