Shore Leave in Scotland

Posted by Dave at 08:40 AM, October 22, 2004

Sunrise over the Scottish coast, near Lochinver (C) Greenpeace/Dave Walsh

On Wednesday morning, we sailed into the small fishing port of Lochinver, on the west coast of Scotland. Before dawn, the Esperanza had come round the Butt of Lewis at the north end of the Hebrides. Only the watchkeepers were awake at that point. As the bleary-eyed attempted breakfast, and the mainland loomed large, the sun was rising behind spectacularly jagged mountains. It was a stunning beginning to the day - especially for Paul, who was sitting up in the bridge, already enjoying his birthday.

Out on deck, it was eye-wateringly cold, but that didn't slow down the campaign team - as the ship edged into GSM range, most of them were out on deck, blowing plumes of vapour into mobile phones.

After we had docked (dwarfing every other ship in port) I sat down at the computer to type something - and found myself getting dizzy. After dealing with gales for a week, the sensation of stillness left me disorientated. I gave up, and went out for fresh air.

Out on deck, the deck crew got the gangway down, and a human chain formed to transfer food supplies from the quay to the galley. There was a lot of people watching the quay - fisherman, from both Lochinver and the three French trawlers tied up alongside, as well as people who were just curious to see a Greenpeace ship arriving in port. People out for walks with their dogs, small children having their photo taken in front of the ship...

A few of us set off to along the quayside, on an expedition to into the village of Lochinver, which is surrounded by spectacular scenery. Quite a novelty for crewmembers new to Scotland. I kept catching myself trying to translate all the Gaelic on buildings on road signs - my own Irish Gaelic isn't too hot, but I can grasp the basics of the Scottish version. Straightforward really - the Royal Bank of Scotland has a 'Banca Rioghail' sign on it.

As we walked along beside the bay, a strange lump - a rock or something -was protruding from the water. Then it moved... every so slowly. A quick look through a binoculars confirmed it. It was a seal, lying off on its back, with just its nose out of the water. His (or her) name, apparently, is 'George', and he's lived in Lochinver for 15 years, and is the bane of mackerel fishermen. Another seal was also stirring up the water nearby. I also heard mention that 'the' seal was called Harry - so maybe there's George AND Harry. Later, I was on the deck of the Esperanza, talking on the phone. I glanced down, and saw a whiskered snout and two dark eyes watching from the water...

But back to the afternoon. The gang of shoreleavers found the post office, and sent cards home... then a shop (to stock up on chocolate) and then a cafe, where some of the more carnivorously inclined dared to try the 'haggis, neeps and tatties'.

Dima, meanwhile, was doing some detective work - and found out where some old bottom trawl nets were dumped. Rummaging through them, he found several coral fragments - yet more evidence (as any was needed) that bottom trawling trashes the ocean floor. Apparently, one big 'tree' of coral had been broken up, and given to a pet shop for use in... aquariums.

After dark, we cast off and headed west again. Before long, we could see the lights of Stornaway, on Lewis, twinkling off to port.

- Dave