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November 27, 2008

Reasons to be cheerful?

Via FiredogLake I learn that the Wall Street Journal is reporting on a drop in electricity consumption in the US.

"An unexpected drop in U.S. electricity consumption has utility companies worried that the trend isn't a byproduct of the economic downturn, and could reflect a permanent shift in consumption that will require sweeping change in their industry."

Read the article

One of the favourite myths of the power companies is that demand for energy grows regardless of what you do. Change your bulbs, insulate your house, buy a smaller, more efficient fridge and retool the factory you work in to be more efficient. Even if we all do all those things it won't make a difference say the power companies, somehow, magically, demand will rise, day on day, year on year.

This thinking was easiest to see in Chevron's laughable 'Energyville' game, where you could set energy policy. It didn't matter how much you spent on energy efficiency, demand always went up by the same amount, because if you work in the power sector rising demand is like the sun coming up. It just happens and there's nothing you can do about it.

Well that might not be true anymore. Demand is down in the US, a response to high prices or the start of an energy revolution?


November 26, 2008

Getting ready for Poznan

Over at our New Zealand blog Bunny sets the stage for the upcoming climate negotiations in Poznan.


November 25, 2008

Oil money

Almost 20 years after the Exxon Valdez caused the worst oil spill in US history the affected communities may finally be about to see some compensation.


How soon is now?

Read more »


November 21, 2008

GMO Alert!

Thanks to all of you that have already responded to our call to stop Gentically Modified Organisms in European Union!

You've generated more than 35,000 letters so far, but only 13 days remain before the vote!

EU ministers on the 4th of December will decide whether they will strengthen the EU authorization system to protect our health, our food and our fields from GMOs.

Our latest information from the negotiation table is that a group of a few pro-GMO member-states and the European Commission are blocking the process and there is a risk that nothing meaningful will be agreed on the 4 December.

If you have not sent your message to the EU ministers please do so now! If you HAVE sent a message already, get the word out to your friends.

We need your support to send a strong message to politicians to listen the concerns of European citizens and keep the EU GMO free!


Tuna tales: a freezing Fijian reports from Korea

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Photo ©Greenpeace/Hilton

Lagi Toibau posts this update from Korea:

For someone coming from the tropics, not used to putting on four layers of clothes every day, and having never seen snow before, working here in Korea has been a lifetime experience. Oh it is cold!

I'm here travelling in Seoul, the capital, and Busan the second largest city in Korea, to launch our campaign to save the Pacific tuna stocks from overfishing. We're working jointly with the excellent support and leadership of our partner organisation – the Korean Federation for Environmental Movement (KFEM), the biggest environmental Non-Governmental Organisation in Korea.

What was really interesting for me is the limited understanding and how buried the tuna issue is in Korea. I came here with an expectation that most Asians including Koreans loved seafood so it would be easy for them to relate to the problems tuna are facing.

We've had a lot of attention and curiosity from people we've encountered about just how their government could be so heavily involved in the plunder and overfishing of this important fishery that belongs to a wide range of Pacific island communities.

I would have thought that Koreans would be more aware of its Pacific neighbours given our geographical placements, but there's quite a bit of surprise when I mention that 20 island countries are shared owners of the Pacific tuna fishery.

Read more »


November 20, 2008

Amazon could be opened to even more destruction

Brazilian Congress is under the serious influence by the agribusiness sector, that much is clear. They are currently trying to change legislation that would open even more of the Amazon to be cleared. If losing the forest in the areas that will no longer be protected isn't bad enough, the clearing and burning of these lands will release millions of tons of greenhouse gas emissions into the atmosphere—making the impacts of climate change even worse.

The region has already lost almost 18% of the forest cover in the last 40 years. In theory, the change being discussed by the Brazilian Congress would immediately apply to 36% of the Amazon in the hands of the private sector.

Join me in telling the Brazilian Congress to reject this project.


Whaling called "pointless" by Japan government spokesperson

Japan's whaling has never made much sense to me. But then I'm a Greenpeace activist. It's pretty interesting to hear the same sentiment from someone who defended whaling in his role as an official spokesperson.

From today's Sydney Morning Herald:

Tomohiko Taniguchi was the official voice of Japan for the last three years. The spokesman for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Tokyo fronted the international media every day to answer, avoid and argue questions. Of the hundreds of matters he dealt with, the one he dreaded most was defending Japan's whaling program. It was part of his job to defend official policy.

"I was being summoned by CNN, BBC and ABC on this issue far more than any other issue," Taniguchi says. "I hated this issue because there's no point in Japan sticking to its position," he tells the Herald in flawless English.

Later in the article, Taniguchi gives some advice:

Taniguchi hopes the whaling industry will fade away. Whale meat is not a big seller, an uneconomic activity. About 80 Japanese parliamentarians support whaling, but it is a core issue for only six to eight. With the Government's deficit worsening, the annual subsidy becomes harder to defend. But Taniguchi advises Australia, and others, not to press too hard, lest this only entrench Japanese political support for whaling.

This fits with Greenpeace's own strategy for ending whaling. The front line in our work to end whaling is no longer in Southern Ocean, it's in Japan itself.

Two courageous activists, Junichi and Toru were arrested in Tokyo earlier this year for exposing corruption in Japan's whaling industry. They're both facing potentially years in prison. We're asking whale (and freedom) lovers everywhere to keep the heat on the whaling industry by standing in solidarity with Junichi and Toru. To help, sign our petition saying, "If defending whales is a crime, arrest me."

Read more »


Forests for Climate - Slideshow

Check out this slideshow put together by Jamie, webby onboard the Esperanza for the Forests for Climate tour. I found the images of forest destruction shocking and the the bravery of the activists inspiring. Thanks Jamie.



Direct action continued for weeks as activists called to for an end to forest destruction on the Forests for Climate Tour

Read more
about the Esperanza's journey through Indonesia on the ship tour blog.


November 19, 2008

Rotterdam action eye candy

It looks like the action in Rotterdam this week-end had some public - besides all the media that reported it. I have just found two slide shows of beautiful photos by a Dutch photographer.
For your viewing pleasure, here they are. The first one has photos of the night and early morning, and the second shows mainly the ships and banners.

For more nice photos of the Greenpeace ships, feel free to look around the flickr group dedicated to them (and submit photos if you have had the pleasure of seeing one!)


November 17, 2008

I arrest you in the name of E-on

Melanie, one of our climate campaigners, took part in an action against coal as a volunteer last weekend in Rotterdam. She writes...

Camping in November could be considered ill advised. Camping on the coast with the wind whipping in off the North Sea would, in any other circumstance, not be considered at all by any sane person. Nevertheless, that is what I spent my weekend doing. I attended a hippy camp to tell E-on that the Netherlands and the World do not want the new coal-fired power plant that they are trying to build in Maasvlakte, near Rotterdam.

We arrived on Friday, intending to set up a camp on public land for the weekend. We hoped to have some community based activities, such as painting a mural and games based on the climate message. We felt it was vital to demonstrate that this plant was neither wanted, nor necessary. Indeed, the Netherlands are set to become net exporters of electricity next year without this plant. However, after our arrival on Friday, there was widespread panic amongst other factories in the area, one of which was shut down temporarily, making for some angry factory workers who just wanted to go home on a Friday night. Once they had realised that we were not going to occupy their factory, the gates were opened, and the workers allowed to get on with their weekend.

Read more »


Palm oil giant destroying national park in Borneo

Burnt forest: the result of Sinar Mas' operations in Kalimantan © Greenpeace/Dithajohn

The Esperanza is now anchored in Singapore harbour and there will be a few days of ship operations - taking on supplies and fuel, doing essential maintenance, that kind of thing. But all that's happening without me. I disembarked yesterday and I'm finishing off a few things from a hotel in Little India. After weeks of daily cleaning chores, I have the strange urge to grapple a mop but I think the hotel staff would be bemused to say the least.

I mentioned that there was one final task left to do, however, and that's to expose once more the environmental crimes of Sinar Mas. Across the South China Sea from here in Kalimantan on the island of Borneo, Sinar Mas companies are clearing forests around the Danau Sentarum National Park, a wetland area protected under the international Ramsar convention, in order to expand their palm oil operations. The buffer zone which is being logged is vital to the health and biodiversity of the park, one of south-east Asia's largest wetland areas and home to a wide range of species including clouded leopards, orang-utans and a large population of proboscis monkeys.

Read more »


Despite crisis, Japan's whaling fleet tries to sneak out of port

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News just in.... Japan's whaling fleet has just slinked out of port under a cloud of financial crisis and scandal, without the elaborate parades and marching bands of previous years. This time the Nisshin Maru left the port of Innoshima with no fanfare, after the cancellation of the usual traditional departure ceremony in its home port of Shimonoseki. Word has it that this time, a small group of only thirty or so saw the whalers off - along with a hardy bunch of activists who protested with banner saying "whaling on trial" and one highlighting the the whaling operation’s multi-million dollar drain on Japan’s taxpayers

The whaling industry seems desperate to avoid attention about this year's Southern Ocean Whaling Sanctuary hunt, even to the point of not officially announcing it to the media. Are they ashamed of something, by any chance?

The funny thing is, in the last week or so, they've only been too ready to make announcements - about their own problems and internal chaos. And that's left with me with an even greater impression of how the entire whaling programme is a shambles, driven by bad business and terrible science.

Read more »


November 16, 2008

Bye bye, Tweety

All packed up and ready to go © Greenpeace/Woolley

Over the next few days, as the tour winds down, people will gradually start leaving the Esperanza and making their way back home. However, the first character to get off the ship wasn't a person at all, but Tweety the helicopter who has been ferrying various people over the forests and plantations of Indonesia and Papua New Guinea for the last three months.

Except for Tweety, this doesn't just mark the end of the tour around south-east Asia, but also her career with Greenpeace. After 25 years of sterling service, she's being packed up and sent away for refurbishment, but she won't be returning to work for Greenpeace.

Tweety has been a vital part of many ship tours, not least during the various Southern Ocean expeditions when she was instrumental in tracking down the Japanese whalers. Watching her being lifted off the Esperanza and her personal effects following her on to the waiting barge was the end of a little piece of Greenpeace history.


November 15, 2008

Farewell to the palm oil boom town

After giving the Isola Corallo a farewell paint-job, we've finally taken our leave of Dumai. We did everything we set out to do (and perhaps a bit more), and we've reminded people both nationally and internationally about the problems associated with palm oil production in Indonesia. And as I mentioned in my last post, palm oil giant Sinar Mas has been rattled by our actions and, even though Greenpeace campaigners are now due to meet with their representatives next week in Bali, we're not going to stop exposing the wanton destruction at their hands (and the hands of other companies) of the forests and peatlands here.

This afternoon, we arrived in Singapore which is to be our final destination. This expedition is winding up but don't go anywhere just yet - we have one last task to perform but you'll have to wait for Monday to find out what that is.

In the meantime, remember that poll the Jakarta Post was running about whether our actions were justified? They've published some of the response on their website and apart from one or two negative comments, everyone thinks we did the right thing. Thank you very much if you emailed or texted in - you can go one better and write to Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono, president of Indonesia, demanding an immediate end to deforestation in his country.


November 14, 2008

Tug of war

The Esperanza attempts to slip past a tug as the Isola Corallo comes in to dock © Greenpeace/Rante

I had thought that, after the Esperanza nipped into the berth reserved for the Isola Corallo this morning, we'd have some time to rest (and, in my case, a long shower) and prepare for the inevitable visit by the authorities. It didn't quite work out like that and by mid-morning, events were moving rapidly.

The other ship alongside the dock had departed and was replaced by a big barge which was brought right up to the Esperanza's stern to hem us in. With the Corallo preparing to come in (the request for a pilot to guide the ship in had been picked up over the radio), it became clear that the port authorities were preventing us from moving up the berth.

Read more »


NEW! Climate rescue weblog

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We've just launched a climate rescue station next to a coal mine in Poland.

Previously we were using weblog.greenpeace.org/climate for political updates for last year's UN climate talks in Bali. This year we're back again with a new look and new stuff to blog about.

Not only will be at the UN climate talks again this year in December - but we've got a bunch of great stuff happening at our Climate Rescue Station and on the Rainbow Warrior. So we're going to post it all on the climate rescue blog.


Greenpeace ship moves in to block more palm oil tankers

Hauling on the mooring lines © Greenpeace/Novis

Apologies for not posting an update yesterday. The anchor chain of the Isola Corallo has been occupied ever since Wednesday night, and still is, but we've been waiting for another opportunity to present itself. Finally, after long hours of observing the traffic in Dumai port and several false hopes, about an hour before dawn our chance came. Now the Esperanza itself has moved in to block the Corallo from taking on its cargo of palm oil.

Crude palm oil seeping from a loading pipe © Greenpeace/WoolleyThere's one part of the quayside here dedicated to piping palm oil into the bellies of the tankers. Up until a couple of hours ago it was occupied by two other ships; then one of them moved out and the Esperanza was able to take its place.

We're now preventing the Corallo from coming alongside - it's a much larger ship, just a bit bigger than the Gran Couva we saw earlier in the week, and so both us and the other ship already here will need to move before the Corallo can come in.

Despite the early hour, all hands were on deck. It was my job to help fix the mooring lines once the Esperanza had reached the quay, which involved jumping down from the poop deck. Pipes and thick mud lay directly beneath, but I managed to get down without breaking my ankle.

Read more »


November 13, 2008

Sjoerd Jongens 1950-2008

GP0123L_Comp.JPGPhoto ©Greenpeace/Kate Davison

Sjoerd Jongens, 57 years old, died yesterday in a bicycle accident on his way to work here at Greenpeace International in Amsterdam.

He joined Greenpeace in 1987, when he took on the job of radio operator at World Park Base in Antarctica -- a place he loved for its beauty, its solitude... and the clarity of its atmosphere as a transmission medium for radio waves.

He was a veteran of two winters in Antarctica with the Australian Antarctic Division before he joined Greenpeace at World Park Base, as part of our ultimately successful campaign to ban oil and minerals exploitation in that fragile environment. He was most at home there or on the ocean, and he sailed with Greenpeace as a radio operator on many missions over the years, including voyages into the Southern Ocean to save the whales and a solar-powered "New Millennium" expedition across the international date line.

He moved back to his native Netherlands in 1989 and joined our international office as a new brand of staff member, a network support engineer. But that title hardly does justice to the role he played. I say this with the deepest affection: Sjoerd was a geek. His single-minded obsession with all things digital meant that he was constantly finding new ways to bend new technologies to Greenpeace's purposes, and he broke new ground for two decades.

Sjoerd foresaw that a new thing called " the internet" might be something we'd want to use in future, and he started a gopher, WAIS, and FTP server back in the late 80s. He registered the domain www.greenpeace.org and put our first website up in 1992, serving as the organisation's first webmaster.

He set up our first web server on a second-hand 386 PC with a 20 megabyte hard disk running Xenix. Keychains today have more memory than that, and Sjoerd was proud that his Linux skills allowed him to take a computer that most people would have thrown away, and not only make it work for Greenpeace, but turn it into a piece of cutting-edge technology.

He did a great deal for Greenpeace that will remain unsung -- both because he laboured so often in solitude and the nature of so much of his work was simply that it enabled others to do theirs. All most people knew was that Sjoerd was the server master, a practitioner of dark digital arts, the guy who stayed late into the night and made it all work. And the guy who couldn't take a vacation, because his beloved machines, like pouting pets, would throw a fit whenever he left the office and refuse to work for anyone else.

He was possibly the grumpiest support person in the history of IT support. And yet he was beloved by everyone who caught a glimpse of the heart behind the gruffness. His managers, myself among them, quickly learned to keep him close to the computers, far from the staff. Mike Townsley once approached him to say he was having trouble with his laptop. "No, Mike. I suspect we'll find that your laptop is actually having trouble with you," was the unironic response.

But those who saw him at sea or in Antarctica saw a different Sjoerd. He kept a diary of his stay in the Antarctic, and wrote this:

Life here is a very special experience, both professionally, domestically, and socially. You are sharing a year of your life with a group of very dedicated, passionate, intelligent, well-traveled, interesting and interested peers. The landscape is unique, impressive, and on a windless, sunny day the horizon surrounds you, colorful, tingling and stunningly clean.

During a clear summer day, the Trans-Antarctic mountains on the other side of the McMurdo Bay are lit from all sides, 24 hours a day, thrusting their white-and-red peaks around 3000 meters into the sky. It's indescribably beautiful.

Even during the long polar night Antarctica remembers light, with the Aurora Australis, the millions of visible stars, and its sharply shining moonlight. You can never forget you are in a rare environment. People call this a hardship posting, but from me you'll hear no complaining. Do I feel honored that I had the opportunity to contribute to the preservation of this great continent? You bet I do.

There was a rainbow over Amsterdam yesterday morning, about the time Sjoerd would have been setting off on his last journey. I take some comfort in the thought that it may have been among the last things he saw, and in imagining that it might have been a tiny farewell gesture from the Earth, to one of the gentlest of her Rainbow Warriors.


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Photo by Andrew Davies
Creative Commons License
This photo is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial 3.0 Unported License.

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Sjoerd's funeral was on Thursday, November 20th. We presented the family with a book of memories and photos, including the comments and remembrances from this blog.


Whalers give into reality and slash this year's quota

Greenpeace stop whaling in Southern Ocean: © Greenpeace / Kate Davison

It's like waiting for a bus - you wait for ages, and three come along at once. First we had the deflagging of the Oriental Bluebird. Then we had the announced closure of the flagship whale meat shop, Yushin, in Tokyo. Now today, according to the Asahi Shimbun, Japan's whaling industry it slashing the quota for this year's Southern Ocean hunt by 20% - the first reduction since 1987.

The Asahi said that lack of demand for whale meat, pressure from protests at sea by environmental organisations, and continued pressure from the likes of Europe and Australia were all contributing to the dropping of the quota from 945 minke whales to 750. However, the planned quota of 50 endangered fin whales stays the same.

Read more »


November 12, 2008

3 weeks to make EU ministers vote against GMOs

GMO mouse action photo

European Environment Ministers meet on December 4 to debate what safety checks are needed to assess genetically modified food before it can be cultivated or sold in the EU. Clearly stronger checks are needed, if you read (PDF in English) an explosive new report about fertility rate decline in mice fed with Monsanto GE maize from the Austrian government!

The European Food Safety Authority is like America's Food and Drug Administration. Under the current regime EFSA, like the FDA, runs inadequate checks and often just rubber stamps what agro-chemical industry experts say.

December 4 could be the day we turn it around -- If we can convince Ministers meeting that day to vote for strict controls. You can take action too.


Japan's whaling programme in tatters: Closures, resignations and cancelled celebrations

Whale meat shop Yushin in Asakusa, Tokyo

Japan's whaling industry is descending into deep crisis; this week, Japanese media outlet Nikkei reported that the flagship 'Yushin' whale meat shop and restaurant in Asakusa will close down by 2010. The announcement came via the Institute for Cetacean Research, the agency that conducts Japan's so called "research" whaling programme, and Kyodo Senpaku, which operates the whaling fleet, who cited financial problems as behind the cause, and bizarrely, a shortage of whale meat.

The news of Yushin's closure comes at a portentous time - the whaling fleet is due to depart in the coming days, for its annual hunt in the Southern Ocean Whale Sanctuary, amidst stories of financial woes and crewing problems. We've learned that, for the first time, the whaling fleet will not be 100% Japanese-crewed, due to many crew members resigning over the whale meat embezzlement scandal, exposed by a Greenpeace undercover investigation in May of this year. Reports have also reached us of the possible cancellation of the traditional high-profile departure ceremony in the fleet's home port of Shimonoseki. Instead, the whaling fleet is expected to depart later this week, from another port, and seen off only by families of crew members, and whaling officials. This may be part of the same "rationalisation plan", as the Yushin closure, which also mentioned the future cancellation of open-boat departure ceremonies.

Read more »


The chain reaction continues as ship number two is immobilised

Anchored to the Isola Corallo © Greenpeace/NovisSo despite several requests to leave Dumai, we haven't left (even though the harbour master visited the ship this afternoon and turned out to be a really nice guy). The reason for that is that we have a bigger and much more significant target in our sights. Now it's arrived and the Esperanza's crew have swung into action once more, and another anchor chain occupation is under way.

We've been waiting a few days for the Isola Corallo to turn up, and at one point a spelling mistake in the ship's name made the researchers wonder whether it even existed. It's time of arrival has slipped later and later but around 7.30pm it finally dropped its anchor.

We headed out into the dark and once more made for the anchor chain. The designated climber scrambled up the chain but, unlike with the Gran Couva, the crew showed very little interest. A couple of heads peered over the side, but their captain had already been informed what we were up to. Plus the crew were probably more interested in shore leave, but I imagine that will change.

Read more »


Wanted: your opinions on our palm oil actions

The Jakarta Post, Indonesia's main English-language newspaper, is asking for readers' opinions on our recent activities in Dumai:

Greenpeace has blocked several palm oil shipments, preventing them from leaving Indonesia, and has called for an end to forest clearing for palm oil plantations. What do you think? Send your opinions by SMS to +62 81118 72772 or by email to readersforum@thejakartapost.com. Please include your name and city.

Meanwhile, enjoy this quick video of clips from the past couple of days. It was made to send round TV networks and media outlets, but you can still get an idea of what it was like to be there.


November 11, 2008

Greenpeace climber brought down in front of cops, spectators and fruit sellers

A policeman pushes a Greenpeace climber down from the anchor chain of the Gran Couva © Greenpeace/Novis

I was hoping we'd make the anchor chain occupation last for at least 24 hours and earlier this morning it was looking like we'd make it. However, we lost out by about 40 minutes because at 12.45pm our climber was removed from the Gran Couva and has been taken away by the police. Never the less, our actions prevented the departure of the Gran Couva and it's cargo of palm oil, plus we've made a big noise in the local, national and international media coverage about the link between the palm oil trade and deforestation.

According to our logistics co-ordinator Ric who was on the scene, police boats gathered during the morning until about 60 police were waiting at the bottom of the anchor chain. The main police boat had an embarrassing mishap on the way in, colliding with the Gran Couva before retreating to a safe distance. Adding to the crowd were pompong boats selling pineapples, jack fruit, onions and other essentials, like little floating shops, as well as various spectators watching the drama.

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Under the sea: cold water reef video

Here's a little-known fact: Norway hosts a majority of the world's known cold-water coral reefs. And if you've never seen what a cold-water coral reef looks like, the stunning video here is unforgettable:

As much as 30 to 50 percent of these fragile reefs are either impacted or destroyed by bottom trawling. Today about 100 EU trawlers, 50 Norwegian trawlers and 250 Russians trawlers hold fishing licences for Norwegian waters, in addition to those in the North Sea.

Join in the call to protect 40 percent of our world's oceans as marine reserves.


November 10, 2008

Belgium Activist - Quit Coal Vlog

Here's a little video we made during the coal action in Belgium on Friday. I couldn't post it from the ship so apologies for the delay.

Meet Jonas - a Greenpeace volunteer boat driver and activist from Belgium.


Paint 'em up, hose 'em down: taking action in Indonesia

Painting the Gran Couva, loaded with palm oil from Wilmar © Greenpeace/Novis

Another dawn start today. Yesterday, we arrived in Dumai, a large port on the eastern coast of Sumatra and the second largest in Indonesia in terms of palm oil exports, and the scene of last year's Rainbow Warrior action. This morning, we headed out from the Esperanza and began painting slogans on the hulls of three ships anchored in the port.

They're loaded with palm oil from the plantations of Riau, just like the ones we've seen from the air and from the ground over the past few days, so being daubed with 'Forest Crime' and 'Climate Crime' in bright yellow paint is only appropriate.

The first stop on our tour of the port was the Gran Couva, a large tanker carrying 27,000 metric tonnes for palm oil giant Wilmar (the same company that owns the plantations John flew over on Saturday) and bound for Rotterdam in the Netherlands. The two painting teams got off to a great start, marking out the positions of the letters and getting stuck into 'Crime'. Angry shouts from the Gran Couva's crew did nothing to dissuade the painters, and neither did the hoses which were turned on them. Unfortunately, the water-based paint didn't last so well and some of the letters began to run.

The team in the small inflatable headed to the stern to try their luck there, but were met by more hoses. The second team in Susie Q fared better and were able to complete the words 'Forest Crime' on the other side of the bow. Watching from a short distance in the media boat, I was impressed how easy the painters were making it look, despite the water hoses and the awkward task of writing with paint rollers fixed onto broom handles.

Read more »


November 9, 2008

Windmill warriors

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Finally I have made it to the Rainbow Warrior! Well what can I say... having volunteered and worked with Greenpeace for nearly 5 years wondering when I will actually set foot on our flagship - it feels a bit strange to be here at last. It's like seeing a legendary celebrity walking down the street and realising that they actually exist in the real world and not just in the media.

Another thing I have found when seeing someone famous is they are always smaller than I expected. The same was true for the Rainbow Warrior. She has a huge reputation but she's actually rather little. But catching a glimpse of her through the window of the van when we arrived in the dark on Saturday night - still sent a surge of adrenaline gushing through my bloodstream as the myth suddenly became reality for me.

Now onboard only for a couple of days - it feels like I have been here before since I felt instantly at home as soon as I arrived. There are some familiar crew faces around but the ship itself seems to have a personality all of it's own. She is certainly the most friendly of all our three ships.

Read more »


Revealing the facts about palm oil to the Chinese public

Shangwen ©: Greenpeace/Maitarposted on behalf of Shangwen, forest campaigner from Greenpeace China, on board the Esperanza

The Forest Defenders Camp we set up last year has gone, and so too has the ancient forest.

I saw the disastrous landscape through the lens of John our photographer and the pictures he has taken. I can feel the pain of our earth and I feel pain in my heart that I couldn’t catch the last cry of the forest which once stood in the same spot where we held the banner. There is an echo in my ears: the Earth does not belong to man, man belongs to the Earth. What will be the future?

The Earth needs a voice. The forests need a voice. I believe that’s why we, Greenpeace volunteers from around the world, stood in the middle of the devastation on Friday, even though many times we’ve felt hopelessness in the depth of our hearts. We must face the truth instead of turning our back and walking away. We must make decisions and take action instead of just talking while the forests are being chopped down. We must understand this: if we can not stop deforestation immediately, we will lose the struggle against climate change.

Read more »


Sumatra's dark, satanic mills

A small town for workers in the heart of a Wilmar palm oil plantation © Greenpeace/Novis

posted on behalf of John on board the Esperanza

As a Greenpeace photographer, I find myself creating pictures in many interesting places. In any part of the world where there is a critical environmental problem, the Greenpeace photographers are there making the best visuals possible to share with everybody. Yesterday was no exception.

It was the last of the twice-daily, three-hour helicopter aerial surveys of Riau province in Sumatra, carried out over the last four days as part of the Esperanza's Forests for Climate tour of Indonesia. Every flight survey has been fascinating but this one - documenting the palm oil plantations belonging to Wilmar, one of the biggest palm oil companies in Indonesia - was breathtaking on a scale I have never seen before.

After flying a short while over intact and beautiful peatland forest, in the distance there appeared what looks like a sea or enormous lake. As we approached, we started to make out a green plain stretching to the horizon. Closer still and we knew we had found what we were looking for – the Wilmar plantations.

Read more »


November 7, 2008

Noted Norwegian whaler hangs up his harpoon

From a statement we just issued:

The Norwegian fisheries newspaper, Fiskaren, reported today that Olav Olavsen, the captain of the well known whaling vessel Nybræna, said that he and his crew have decided to end whaling operations. Greenpeace has previously confronted the Nybræna at sea and disrupted its whaling operations for days.

The retirement of the Nybræna from whaling is part of a general trend in Norwegian whaling. Over 10 percent of the fleet dropped out of whaling between 2003 and 2007 and the value of whaling dropped from USD 2.9 million last year to USD 2.5 million this year, a decrease of 13 percent. The value of whaling in Norway is now less than 0.5 percent of the USD 800 million value of fishing.

Norway's whaling had to be ended early this year, as in previous years, because there is virtually no market for whale meat in Norway or anywhere else. The whalers managed to catch only half their quota.

We are pleased that Mr. Olavsen and his crew have decided to end whaling. We wish them good luck and sustainable fishing. Mr Olavsen has for decades been a well-known figure in the whaling community in Norway; we call on the remaining whalers to follow his lead now and end whaling for good.


Alongside the forest, up against the wall

Greenpeace volunteers hold a banner in a deforested area of the Kampar peninsula, Sumatra, Indonesia © Greenpeace/Novis

I've scrubbed and showered but there are still traces of mud sticking to me. It's my own fault - I guess I shouldn't have gone tramping around the peatlands here in Riau. But the picture above, that's us: some of the Esperanza's crew and several Indonesian volunteers pulling our banner tight against the forest wall, the straight line that separates the thriving ecosystem from the barren areas which have been cleared of trees. In case you're wondering, I'm at the top of the P in 'STOP'.

It was an early start and a long drive to get to the site on the Kampar peninsula, chosen because PT Arara Abadi-Siak has permits to set up plantations for acacia trees, used for making pulpwood and paper. The company is a subsidiary of Asia Pulp and Paper (APP), which is in turn owned by our old friends Sinar Mas - as well as having fingers in pulpwood, Sinar Mas is also one of the largest palm oil producers in Indonesia (not to mention a member of the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil), and many of the nearby palm oil plantations have their name above the gate.

Driving along the road from Sungai Pakning was deceptively pleasant - elegant wooden houses were nestled amongst lush green foliage, and kids were cycling to school. But after crossing the Siak river on the ferry, we were deep into plantation country. Rows of oil palms lined the way with their shaggy coats of ferns, and bunches of palm fruit lay by the roadside. Along one stretch, intact forest sprawled to the right while regiments of young oil palms were springing up on the left, the forest wall a thick blue line on the horizon, and a pipeline followed us all the way from ferry.

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November 6, 2008

Quit coal - plug into the wind

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The Rainbow Warrior arrived in Belgium waters today and visited the first Belgian offshore wind park that will very soon be connected to the Belgian grid. With journalists and politicians on board the crew were congratulating the Belgian government for taking the first step towards an energy revolution.

We're now asking for further development of wind energy offshore in the North Sea and for this energy to be widely integrated on the European grid by connecting the North Sea wind farms together. This would decrease the variability in the electricity production from wind and make this clean energy a much more powerful solution for fighting climate change.

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I have just arrived in Belgium and will be taking part in another energy adventure here shortly - so watch this space!

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Photography © Greenpeace/ Will Rose


UK waves farewell to the Rainbow Warriors


Sadly, all good things come to an end and, on Tuesday, the Rainbow Warrior hauled up her lines and left London, heading for mainland Europe to continue her global Quit Coal tour.

As a thanks to her amazing crew, we've put together the above slideshow capturing the quieter moments inbetween the frenetic events, open days and direct actions. The photographs are all by Will Rose (onboard photographer and one of the Kingsnorth Six) and Kajsa Sjolander (Rainbow Warrior deckhand and garbologist, when she's not being a photojournalist).

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November 5, 2008

Slash and burn in the forests of Sumatra

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We've arrived in Sungai Pakning, a small port on the coast of Riau in Sumatra, and the Esperanza is anchored in a wide, silty channel running between the mainland and two islands, Pulau Bengkalis and Pulau Padang. The soupy water flowing gently past the ship will be down to the Siak river, the mouth of which is just a few miles south.

Sungai Pakning might be small, but the signs of what's happening further inland are everywhere. Large container ships wait patiently at anchor for their cargoes and the flame at the top of a refinery lights up the night sky. For we're on the edge of the great plantations which have come to dominate this area, both the oil palms we've seen so much of and, increasingly, acacia trees which are being harvested to be used as pulpwood and paper.

All these plantations are sitting on areas which used to be lowland forest growing in thick, water-logged peat. Of course, the forest is no longer there and the peat has been drained and burnt, causing the annual smog which drifts over south-east Asia during the burning season. It's this chopping, draining and burning which is releasing colossal quantities of greenhouse gases and helping to give Indonesia the number three spot in the global emissions charts.

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Memo to Obama

Thank you, Barack Obama, for giving all of us new hope for a changed America.

We're non-partisan here at Greenpeace. We don't have any permanent allies or enemies. We support policies, not politicians. We endorse deeds, not words. So even while a lot of us (in our personal capacity as human beings and not Greenpeace employees) are jumping up and down this morning with glee, we want to take a moment to remind you of the promises you made in your election campaign.

It's delivering on these promises, or bettering them, that will be the true mark of your leadership. As you yourself said

This victory alone is not the change we seek - it is only the chance for us to make that change. And that cannot happen if we go back to the way things were.

When the oil company sharks and the coal industry crooks and the nuclear energy shisters begin to gather at your door, please remember what you promised us in this election. Please remember the reasons you gave us to hope:

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Cycling through Sumatra to meet orang-utans

Orang-utans, like these in Kalimantan, are threatened by expanding oil palm plantations © Greenpeace/Behring-Chisholm

posted on behalf of Madeleine, captain of the Esperanza

In early 1995, sailing on a Greenpeace ship was still just a dream for me. I had applied several times over the years, but I never received anything other than the standard courtesy reply. If people asked me what I wanted to do with my life, I used to tell them that one day I'd love to sail on a Greenpeace ship.

But at that time I was in Sumatra. For a few months, I had been learning to surf on the island of Nias, famous for the surf break at Lagundi Bay. My board had just snapped for the second time and it looked like it was irreparable, so I was searching for the next adventure. I caught the ferry back to Sibolga in Sumatra and bought the cheapest mountain bike I could find to replace my surfboard as my travelling companion. So I had a 20kg bike and a backpack which weighed 8kg and held all of my worldly possessions.

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November 3, 2008

A VIP tour of the Esperanza

Dmitri on board the Esperanza © Greenpeace/NovisWhile we were docked in Jakarta last week, hundreds of people came to see the Esperanza and take a tour around the bridge. These included Greenpeace supporters, journalists and the general public, but there was one group that was particularly special.

When he's not being second mate on various Greenpeace ships, Dmitri runs a charity called Orphans Trust Fund in his adopted home of New Zealand to help kids who lost their parents in the 2004 tsunami. He was on board the Rainbow Warrior when she delivered aid to Aceh in Sumatra following the disaster and stayed behind to help when the ship departed.

The money Dmitri raises helps to pay for the kids' education at a school called Fajar Hidayah which has faculties in both Aceh and Jakarta. As we were in town, we couldn't pass up the opportunity to give them an exclusive tour of the ship.

Here Dmitri explains how he came to set up his charity and why he believes helping just a few children is very important. Listen to the interview, and there's a transcript below.

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