Back in Korea today was the final day of the IWC. The week-long meeting that our entire occupation led up to, which in the end left me questioning how much it actually does to protect whales. Delegates flying from all over the world, all the pollution, time and money, and still we are losing more whales every day. Tomorrow there will be a goodbye gathering for all the wonderful people we have met, and Sunday they will begin to break down the camp. What a bittersweet experience that will be...those left are a small group that consist of the oldest, and newest crew.

Our experience here was no short of extraordinary. (I hope I can speak for all?!) Dropping ourselves in the middle of Jangsaengpo with our neon green dome and circus tent next door must have seemed as strange to the locals as a spaceship landing from outer space, complete with martians and all. And to have ultimately befriended and comprised with these people, says a lot about our crew, KFEM, and the people of Jangsaengpo. To have been allowed to stay until the end of the IWC, and to have been granted permission to carry out the Virtual March...stunning. The outcome of this whole endeavor would not have been possible without so many spectacular activists, but more importantly, without the help of our awesome interpreters. I wish I could tell you about the special qualities of every one I have met here, but for that, I would need days...

Here’s a little poem some of us at the camp wrote. We like to call it, "Sweet Jangsaengpo"

Jangsaengpo, your skies so covered Your ground so vast and dry Your wind whirls around our world Jangsaengpo, my sweet torch, light me home I will always remember you as my brother As you will always remember us as your saviors J

Some things I will remember about this experience: Crashing the Mayor of Ulsan’s server, jamming his fax machine. Litteroli Patroli. The bathhouse. Bart sweeping dirt endlessly, and actually making it look nicer. Up the mound, down the mound. Be ready for anything, but stay relaxed. Here come the riot police. There go the riot police. Being famous in Ulsan. So Yeon, Je jong, Won Ju, Mr. Ma. Driving to Ben Harper. The dilapidated home I came from. Sweet Jan and the sleeping kiwi. Marek falling down every time we partied. Jim at karaoke. (he’s so bad its good.) Having to cross a field, car park or street to get to a bathroom. The bathhouse. I never ever and #$*! Fred. The countless times I had to explain that/why I only spoke English. The heat. The beach. Oh and did I mention the bathhouse? The totally foreign sea creatures. And the kindness. The truly, genuine kindness, bestowed upon us by the Korean people.

I would like to thank Jim and Adam for doing a tremendous job under extremely challenging circumstances. They’d be the first to say they couldn’t have done it without us (the activists), which is true, but we couldn’t have done it without you and for that you deserve far more than words can convey...Thank you to everyone that has been a part of this, and to everyone that made my time in Ulsan, camping in a hot, noisy, dusty, polluted car park, a remarkable experience. In the end, I just hope we’ve done something to protect these magnificent creatures...

Keep an eye out for more of Greenpeace’s work to protect the world’s oceans, and all of its beautiful inhabitants...there will be LOTS to come. www.greenpeace.org

In another time, in another place. Kelly