It's a blue-black Thursday night in Lapland. I'm on a wooden sleigh, sitting on a reindeer skin. In front of me sits Anisha, web editor from Greenpeace Germany, swaddled in warm clothes and reindeerskin boots. The sleigh is being towed by a snowscooter, driven by Jarmo.

We're returning from an afternoon reindeer roundup in Siuttajoki, north of Inari, where the Muddusjärvi cooperative have their corral.

At this time of year, it's only accessible by a half-hour snowscooter ride from the main road. Before getting on board, Jarmo warns - "It's a boring ride - it's already been logged". He's right - the landscape is open and bare, with spindly pines scrub. There's no tell-tale holes or footprints here - there's nothing for reindeer to eat, no lichen or moss to hunt for.

When we arrive at the corral, we pass by a paddock of several hundred grazing reindeer that pay us little notice. Siuttajoki is a cluster of small - often one-roomed wooden houses, used by the twenty-two or so member families of the cooperative while they're working here. It's not a village - it's a workplace with living quarters. Off to one side are the corrals and paddocks - where the reindeer are organised, and separated for herding, for moving to different grazing areas, or for slaughter. In this case, the reindeer are being sorted out into particular family grazing groups - before this, they've been all mixed up in one larger herd.

Jarmo pulls the scooter up beside the loghouse of Antti - one of the herders. After meeting Antti himself, we wade through the knee-deep snow towards the corral. I can see the occasional flash of reindeer, mingled with bright flashes of colour. We slide back a panel in the side of the corral, and step inside. Roughly circular, it's mostly made up of sliding wooden gates. Across from us is the main gate, which swings open to let the reindeer in. Standing around are more than a dozen herders - from teenage boys and girls to older men and women. Most are wearing a combination of snow overalls with curly-toed reindeerskin boots, and have two knives swinging from distinctive Sámi belts. The atmosphere is quietly businesslike, but there's jokes and the occasional laugh rolls around the circle.

Barking in the distance - reindeer herding dog on duty. Two dozen snorting reindeer gallop into the enclosure. A strong, gamey smell fills the area, as they move as one - like a shoal of fish, in a lap of the corral. They, whipping past us at speed, and I have to jerk the camera up to avoid getting an antler in the lens. All of a sudden, one hesitates, so they all skid to a halt and change direction. The herders are watching closely, looking for distinctive ear-markings or maybe coloured markings on the hump. Each family has its own ear-mark, handed down from generation to generation. It's a complex system of ear-nicks - indistinguishable to the inexperienced, as simple as a registration plate to the experts. Over by the big gate, a small, friendly looking little dog watches his charges. It looks impatient but enthusiastic, waiting for the next chance to herd reindeer.

The train of animals pound towards me - I hold my ground, crouching, and release the camera shutter. Semi-domesticated or not, the click is enough to make the lead reindeer change direction, though I get kicked as they storm past.

A reindeer separates from the rest, unsure of itself - a hand reaches out, grasps an antler. The reindeer struggles, but the herder is strong, and he walks the reindeer across to the entrance of his family paddock. A helper slides open the gate, and the reindeer springs forward, and out into the paddock, where it joins its herd, and almost immediately starts feeding.

The main group runs out of steam, and runs more slowly now, steam blowing from snorting nostrils. The herders move in now, and grab their respective reindeer, ushering them towards 'home'. One goes, others want to follow.

The corral is empty again, except for humans. Then the barking starts again, and a new group enters. I'm still busy soaking up the atmosphere, the visuals. Anisha is working more like a journalist - asking questions. She notices that many of the herders are speaking in Finnish - rather than in Sámi. Antti explains that this is because some of the cooperative are Inari Sámi, while others are Northern Sámi. Even though the two groups have existed in proximity for years, the two languages are mutually incomprehensible. So Finnish is the common language.

We also learn why some reindeer have bells - these are put on calmer, reliable animals, who tend to the lead the herd, and provide a beacon for any young reindeer who stray from the herd.

As the corral clears yet again, we head back to Antti's house for coffee - some of the other herders also take a break. They've still got two thousand animals to sort out, so this may take some time. Inside the cabin, Antti notices Anisha rubbing her feet, and ducks down under the bunks and pulls out a pair of boots, made from the legs of reindeer. Usually they would be lined with hay, but she has to make do with socks. Once on, she makes for the snow, for a test drive. Inside, other herder have arrived, and Jarmo gets down to business - discussing the current herding vs. logging controversy.

By the time we leave, it's dark. So it's a lot harder to see the scarred landscape where the old forests once were.

- Dave

Map of the Inari Cooperatives »
More: About Reindeer Cooperatives »
Reindeer Herders Assocation »

Reindeer Roundup Video
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Reindeer Roundup Gallery

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