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August 24, 2009

From India to Greenland

India seems (and is) quite far away from Greenland and the Arctic. Yet, with the world's second population and with major cities like Mumbai (parts of which lie just a few meters above sea level), the country cannot ignore what is happening.
India is now a major player in international politics. If its population and leaders start making climate change the political priority, the world will listen. Gaurav Sawant, a journalist from Aajtak and Headlines Today, is on board the Arctic Sunrise and he has been blogging his experience so far. He's a good writer and if you have a break this afternoon, I recommend you use it to read his last blog entries on his own Arctic expedition blog.

Large chunks of ice are falling into the water....the water level in the oceans and seas is rising and eating into the land from New York to Sydney and from Mumbai to the Sundarbans on India's east coast.

So what is happening and will happen in the years to come is that the sea will eat more and more into the land. And scientists say land under cultivation and land we live on will be devoured by the sea resulting in large scale migration of people from these areas to safer areas - from Bangladesh to India - and this will led to violence and tension.


Hopefully, India's leaders - and the rest of the world's leaders - will be paying attention to him.

August 23, 2009

The Most Excellent Storm: At Helheim Glacier

CTD device hanging alongside the Arctic Sunrise © Greenpeace/Nick Cobbing
CTD device hanging alongside the Arctic Sunrise © Greenpeace/Nick Cobbing

From Melanie, expedition leader on board the Arctic Sunrise

Today is August 22. We are mid-way through leg 2 of this Arctic Climate Impacts Expedition in Sermilik Fjord. We have been wildly busy since arriving in Tasiilaq on August 17, but things are going really, really well. We’ve been incredibly lucky: none of the problems that could have thrown a wrench in to our well laid plans - fog grounding the helicopter, heavy ice impeding the ship’s transit, scientific equipment breaking down – have happened. I chalk this up to “the luck of the Irish” since four of our crew are Irish - the chief engineer, media officer, heli pilot and videographer.

Since things are going so smoothly, I’m taking a few moments out of my busy day and have taken my laptop up to the bridge to churn out a blog. Here’s a bit of a running description of what’s going on from my vantage point.

Continue reading "The Most Excellent Storm: At Helheim Glacier" »

August 22, 2009

Arctic Sunrise weathering media storm off Greenland

The Arctic Sunrise in Sermilik Fjord. © Greenpeace/Nick Cobbing
The Arctic Sunrise in Sermilik Fjord. © Greenpeace/Nick Cobbing

From Melanie, expedition leader on board the Arctic Sunrise

The Arctic Sunrise is currently on the east coast of Greenland. We said goodbye to the on-board science team in Nugatsiaq on August 9, and to two Chinese journalists and a campaigner from Greenpeace China in Sisimiut on August 11. Our next port-of-call was Tasiilaq , and the ship is now in nearby Sermilik Fjord.

An independent science team from the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution in Massachussetts joined the ship in Tasiilaq. The team, led by Dr. Fiamma Stranneo, is undertaking a variety of oceanographic measurements in, from August 19-25. Their goal is determine if warm, sub-tropical waters are coming into contact with glaciers in the fjord, and to determine the processes that control the variability of ocean conditions where the glaciers meet the sea.

Continue reading "Arctic Sunrise weathering media storm off Greenland" »

August 21, 2009

Kayaks hanging from a helicopter! (or Arctic video blog 3)

August 18, 2009

Greenland's Glaciers: Waking the Sleeping Giants

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Humboldt Glacier. © Nick Cobbing/Greenpeace

Crunch, crunch, crunch, leap crevasse… “oomph”. Crunch, crunch, crunch, run, “hup!”, jump, CRUNCH, “oooof”.

It’s one o’clock on a windless morning. I’m walking on Humboldt Glacier in the high Arctic of northwest Greenland, my ears filled with the clumping of my own boots on the ice. The sky above is bright blue, and the sun is low, flirting with the horizon. It will be another few weeks before it sets.

Ahead, the sun is beating down on my fellow hikers, Dr Alun Hubbard from Wales, and Dr Jason Box from the United States, as they stride across the glacier with GPS antennae protruding from their backpacks. I’m a little behind them; my backpack containing some pretty intense espresso and a pie baked by Babu, the Arctic Sunrise’s cook. Although its ‘night’, I’m so warm that I’m down to my base layer t-shirt, and the sunblock is starting to run under my sunglasses and sting my eyes.

All around us is ice. Ice as far as the eye can see, to the north, south, and most definitely to the east, a lot more than I can conceive. Whenever we reach the top of a rise, I can see the massive icebergs calving from Humboldt Glacier into Kane Basin, the large body of water to the west. This is Humboldt’s main calving embayment, the most active part of the glacier, which we have nicknamed ‘Baby Cow Bay’. It’s the relatively fast flowing stream of ice that spits out the hundreds of tabular icebergs that we’ve seen from the Arctic Sunrise. We’re a couple of hundred metres above the water in Kane Basin, but below our feet is another kilometre or so of ice, squeezing the actual bedrock of Greenland down below sea level.

Continue reading "Greenland's Glaciers: Waking the Sleeping Giants" »

August 17, 2009

Looking back on Petermann

The first leg of the Greenland expedition is now over. The on-board scientists are now off board (safely back home, don't worry) and it's time to look back on everything they did.

Continue reading "Looking back on Petermann" »

August 13, 2009

Video: Fish, Chinese Campaigner on Climate Change in China

Out of the 28 people we've had on board the Arctic Sunrise for our expedition to Petermann Glacier, three were Chinese - two journalists, plus a campaigner from Greenpeace China, known to us all as "Fish". Here's a beautiful little movie that our on board answer to Stanley Kubrick, otherwise known as Stephen Nugent, filmed over the last couple of weeks. Amazing stuff!

Continue reading "Video: Fish, Chinese Campaigner on Climate Change in China" »

August 7, 2009

Heading South

[Our expedition leader on board the Arctic Sunrise looks back on our weeks at Petermann Glacier]

 After spending more than five weeks waiting for Petermann Glacier in northwest Greenland to calve a 100km2 ice island into the sea, at around midnight Wednesday night the Arctic Sunrise began its transit down the west coast of Greenland. Our primary goal at Petermann Glacier was to document the calving of the ice island with remote time-lapse cameras perched on 1000m cliffs overlooking the glacier. Even though the ice island has not yet calved, our time-lapse cameras remain in place, ready to document the glacier's disintegration, should it happen this summer.

Continue reading "Heading South" »

August 5, 2009

Late Night With Nanuk

It’s five minutes past midnight on board the Arctic Sunrise. The sun never sets at this time of year; instead it casts long late shadows on the ice, and turns the sea water and icebergs buttery yellows and infinite blues.

 Some of us should be asleep, but few of us are – we’re pulled up beside a stunning iceberg, which has become known as ‘The Donut’, thanks to the circular hole formed by an exquisite archway of glacier ice.

 I’m on the starboard bridge wing, looking at the Sunrise’s shadow play on the ‘berg, then reflection of that shadow in the water. Out of the corner of my eye I catch something yellow galloping along the pockmarked sea ice that stretches from the iceberg to the nearby coastal cliffs.

 “POLAR BEAR, POLAR BEAR” I shout into the bridge.

Continue reading "Late Night With Nanuk" »

July 30, 2009

Whitehills, Bluewater, Greenland


© Nick Cobbing/Greenpeace

Eric Philips is an Australian polar explorer and adventurer, who brings his expertise on the ice to the Arctic Sunrise for our expedition to bear witness to the Arctic meltdown. Here he's having a look back at an adventure from a couple of weeks ago, and the resourcefulness needed to pull it off: kayaking down the melt stream of a glacier!- Dave

It's not often that I balk at an adventure, particularly if it involves ice or a kayak or both, but the suggestion that we paddle a river flowing on the surface of the Petermann Glacier brought my heart rate up a notch or two. "The surface is too rough to ski over so why don't we paddle the river with the radar?" suggested our resident glaciologist, Alun Hubbard. A lecturer in glaciology at Aberystwyth University, this swashbuckling Welshman was no stranger to adventure, with Antarctic sailing and mountaineering as two of his many outdoor pursuits. "A stretch of about 25km ends just upstream of The Whirlpool and should get us a really good fix on Petermann's basal topography."

 Crikey, this guy's nuts

Continue reading "Whitehills, Bluewater, Greenland" »

July 28, 2009

Petermann: Prepare your brain

[We may not have seen Petermann Glacier for a while, but we're still lying in wait as more of it fractures every day. Meanwhile, the crew are still compiling their memories of the glacier. Here's a some impressions of Petermann Glacier by the 3rd mate on the Arctic Sunrise; Bob, from the Netherlands].
 
While doing the bridge watch, we on the ship's bridge always keep in close contact with out helicopter pilot, Martin. One morning, flying back along the immense glacial ice tongue, he called in asking me (as 3rd mate), if I would be interested in a seat during the afternoon flight.
 
What can you say to that? Pete, the captain, heard the request coming in by radio and straight away told me, "Bob, if you wanna go, you go".
 

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Continue reading "Petermann: Prepare your brain" »

July 27, 2009

Arctic melt... from Alaska

The Observer reported yesterday that the US Army has been sitting on satellite images showing dramatic ice melt in the Arctic in recent years.
This begs a few questions. Isn't an army's primary goal to protect the civilians in a country? Can't they see that global warming is one of the most important threats ever faced?

Other (non-classified) satellite photos from the Arctic, Petermann glacier to be precise, show the much talked about crack growing. How much more evidence will be need before we take action?

July 23, 2009

Captains Blog: Icebreaking

[Captain Pete looks back at last's exit from Petermann Glacier]
 
Wednesday, 15 July
The helicopter gets off the deck at 0800. The ship's main engine starts 20 minutes later. We are headed south at 0900, and the engine needs a while to warm up. The helicopter gets delayed, but at 0901, Eric has cast off our line, and we are underway.
 
The Arctic Ocean pack ice has invaded Nares Strait. It is old (called multi-year) sea ice, and averages six meters thick. This is way thicker than anything we can break with Arctic Sunrise. So before it can trap us in Hall Basin, we escape south. The crew all walks around telling each other that this is good, as we are all bored with Petermann.
 

 
Photo: The Arctic Sunrise working its way through sea ice. (c) Greenpeace/Nick Cobbing

Continue reading "Captains Blog: Icebreaking" »

July 22, 2009

Hans Island

As the Arctic Sunrise made its way down from Petermann glacier to the Kane Bassin, it passed a very small island that gets a lot more attention than it should - Hans Island.
If it was located anywhere else, it would be just what it looks like - a piece of rock that happens to be above sea level. But the world politics being as strange as they are, it is actually the centre of a sovereignty dispute between Canada and Denmark.

Continue reading "Hans Island" »

Captain's Blog: Petermann Glacier

[Pete Willcox has sailing on Greenpeace ships for 28 years. He's currently our skipper on the Arctic Sunrise off the coast of Greenland. This is the first in a series of Captain's Blogs that we'll be publishing throughout our three-month expedition to bear witness to the Arctic Meltdown - Dave]
 
 
There is never a bad time to go out for a walk on the deck and enjoy the scenery. Because the sun is always up, there are some times that are better than others. And speaking of time, longitude up here in the Arctic, it ain't what it used to be. At the equator, where we were this winter sailing the Amazon, a degree of longitude was 60 nautical miles. Up here it is nine.
 

Continue reading "Captain's Blog: Petermann Glacier" »

July 18, 2009

Melancholy

We left Petermann Fjord on Wednesday morning at 9am. The Arctic Sunrise headed south from Petermann Fjord just in the nick of time. Satellite images of the area three hours before our departure showed the thick, multi-year sea ice that was formally part of the ice arch was a mere 20 nautical miles (23 miles/37km) from the ship.


Continue reading "Melancholy" »

July 17, 2009

The Ice Report: Out of Petermann, into the Basin

The Ice Report: Out of Petermann, into the Basin
The Arctic Sunrise has departed Petermann Glacier. I'm writing this blog from tranquil Kane Basin, 80 nautical miles (148 km) south of the fjord where we spent the last two weeks. Texas, the Radio Operator, just looked out at the near mirror world surrounding the ship, exclaiming, "well, that's pretty freakin' close to spectacular!"
 
We hightailed it south on Wednesday, to evade getting closed in by a wave of tough, thick, sea ice coming down from the Lincoln Sea.





Continue reading "The Ice Report: Out of Petermann, into the Basin" »

July 15, 2009

Something afoot in the Arctic

By Eric Philips, Australian polar explorer, currently acting safety guide on board the Arctic Sunrise. This entry also appeared on CNN.com

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I'm writing this blog from Peterman Glacier in northwest Greenland, where a cold katabatic wind is blowing off the ice onto the deck of the Greenpeace ship Arctic Sunrise. The ship is here on a scientific research mission and to document the effects of climate warming on the world’s largest island and second largest icecap. I’m on board as the expedition safety guide, which means making sure that everyone venturing off the ship is well-equipped and well-informed for dealing with conditions in the harsh and remote Arctic wilderness.
While it's exciting to work beside world-class scientists such as ice-sheet climatologist Jason Box, glaciologist Alun Hubbard and geophysicist Richard Bates, it's equally disheartening to be here bearing witness to the catastrophic events they record.

Continue reading "Something afoot in the Arctic" »

Blue River

[Nick Cobbing is the photographer on board the Arctic Sunrise, here at Petermann Glacier. You may be used to seeing his name underneath Greenpeace photographs, but here he adds some words to his photographs, to describe the audacious challenge taken by some of our colleagues – to kayak 25km down a meltwater river glacier. Perhaps it's not as crazy at seems – the floating ice of Petermann Glacier is horizontal enough that lazy blue rivers can meander along it, eventually ending in raucous whirlpools as described in earlier blogs. The kayakers' pullout zone was well before the maelstrom.
 
Of course, the scientists Jason, Alun and Richard, along with polar explorer Eric and ship's Radio Operator Texas did this mini paddling expedition in the name of science – connecting all four kayaks was the long antennae of an elaborate ice-penetrating radar system. It's Alun's baby, and he wanted to use it to survey a long section of the glacier, to gain knowledge on the ice thickness, melt-rates and the eventual breakup of Petermann Glacier. The trip was a success, and they're planning on repeating it on a different river, to get further data. Now let's see what Nick has to say - Dave]
 
The day before, I must admit that I did think it was a crackpot scheme, concocted so that the guys could get out there on that water - and looking at those deep ultra-blue channels winding their way through the glacier ice, who wouldn't want to, well... Kayak in them! These ravines had it all: sweeping bends, majestic mountains towering one-kilometre high and Petermann Glacier itself, seemingly infinite to the eye. To say this landscape is vast and other-worldly, doesn't even begin to describe it; I would have to refer you to the photographs which accompany this blog entry and perhaps the many more that I have had the pleasure to make during two weeks spent in this captivating place.

Continue reading "Blue River" »

July 9, 2009

The Whirlpool

Swirling vortices, bright blue rivers, earthquakes, icequakes and 24-hour sunshine. Welcome to the weird world of the Arctic Sunrise, at Petermann Glacier, 81 degrees 11.272 minutes north, 61 degrees 50.892 west. To be exact.
For over week now, the Arctic Sunrise has been at Petermann Glacier in northwestern Greenland, where, according to my morning Google Alerts we had a 6.1 earthquake yesterday, at 17:11 local time. No one on board admits to noticing it, despite the epicentre occurring just a few hundred kilometres south of us in Baffin Bay. The three glacier scientists on board are checking their data for the period, to see if the glacier reacted in any way.

Petermann Glacier the largest floating glacier in the northern hemisphere is starting to showing wear and tear, even though we've only been monitoring it for a little while. There's four 'ice islands' that we expect to break off within the next year or so. The most likely, the gargantuan 100 square kilometre piece "A" contains, according to calculations by Jason and myself, around 5 billion tonnes of ice. Since we arrived, some of the cracks between these sections of ice have started to widen.

We don't know when the break will happen, but we're planning on being on location for some weeks.

Continue reading "The Whirlpool" »

July 7, 2009

We're on the map!

(Posted by Melanie, campaigner on board the Arctic Sunrise:)
 
I spend waaaaay too much time in the office of this ship chained to my
laptop, but sometimes sitting here in the office of the Arctic Sunrise has its benefits.
 
Take two minutes ago when Arne Sorensen, our ice pilot, came into the office. Arne's job is to maneuver the ship through ice, which may sound simple, but trust me, it's not. It takes an intimate knowledge of and experience with wind, weather, the ship's abilities and the many states and behavior of the ice itself to chart a safe course from point A to point B. Just as importantly, Arne can use his decades long experience piloting ships in polar conditions to predict in advance and avoid any hazards that could trap, slow or jeopardize the well being of the ship.

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Continue reading "We're on the map!" »

July 6, 2009

Arctic Sunrise At Petermann Glacier

"We thought we were alone in the world"
 



© Greenpeace/Nick Cobbing


So a Polar Inuit hunter is said to have told South Greenlander John Sacheuse, official interpreter on 1818 expedition to Greenland led by Captain John Ross. Or so the story goes – some have questioned the accuracy of Sacheuse’s translation of the man’s statement, so different were their dialects. The most northern society in the world had been cut off from everyone south of them for hundreds, or thousands of years, so they could be forgiven for feeling "alone".
 
Whatever the truth behind that quote, the crew of the Arctic Sunrise can empathise with its essence. If it wasn’t for our dripfeed of emails and the occasional phone call on our Iridium satellite phone, the rest of the world’s population might as well not exist.
 
Remember those old movies, pre-Jurassic Park, about lands that time forgot, or valleys of dinosaurs, or however many years BC? For every movie based on the works of Jules Verne or HG Wells, then a dozen B-Movies shamelessly ransacked them and the hired actor Doug McClure as the 'hero'.

Continue reading "Arctic Sunrise At Petermann Glacier" »

July 1, 2009

Polar Bear!

From Melanie, campaigner on board the Arctic Sunrise:
A few hours after arriving at 82.31 degrees north latitude, a polar bear was sighted wandering not too far off the ship’s port beam. As you can imagine when someone shouts out “polar bear!” a fair bit of mayhem ensues, we drop what we are doing, grab our cameras and run out on deck. My cabin mate, Faye, is on watch from 12-4 so she was asleep, but she’d given me explicit instructions to wake her if a polar bear was sighted. I crossed my fingers and hoped the polar bear would remain in sight for at least a few minutes more while I ran down below to wake Faye.


Continue reading "Polar Bear!" »

June 30, 2009

Arctic Sunrise on Top of the World

The crew of the Arctic Sunrise is on top of the world today, for many mindblowing reasons. As I write this, the ship is nudged up against the sea ice of the Arctic Ocean at 82.5 north – a latitude higher than any Greenpeace ship has achieved before, as far as we know. A couple of hours after we arrived, and had barely finished breakfast, a young polar bear loped past, seemingly curious and indignant about us unfurry humans gawping at it from our inedible green ship. It had been prowling along the ice edge, looking for seals for breakfast. We later saw evidence that it may have been successful, but I’ll spare squeamish readers the details. After such a short time here, it’s incredible that we’ve seen one of the world’s most formidable animals, one that is at risk from the lost of sea ice caused by climate change.
 
Where are we anyway? To the west, in the distance are mountains in the north of Ellesmere Island, and we can just about see the Canadian base at Alert. To the east, the mountains Greenland’s top end lie on the horizon. To the south, Nares Strait – the route to Baffin Bay by which we arrived, and to the north – well, there’s really only frozen ocean between here and the geographic North Pole.

Continue reading "Arctic Sunrise on Top of the World" »

June 25, 2009

Arctic Impacts Expedition: Amongst Icebergs

Greetings from Baffin Bay! As I write this from the campaign office on board our ship, the Arctic Sunrise, blue and white icebergs appear through the sea mist. We’re just south of the wonderfully named Disko Island, or Qeqertarsuaq, off the west coast of Greenland. A seal just popped its head up, to check out who is passing by. And we just crossed the Arctic Circle.

Continue reading "Arctic Impacts Expedition: Amongst Icebergs" »



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