Large warehouses on the shoreline had had trucks swept through them and there was at least one vehicle sitting in the water not more than 50metres from our berth.

We could not establish radio contact with the pilots, not surprising really. Contact with MSF logistics was also difficult at this time of the morning so I woke Dave Curtis at MSF up in Jakarta and got him onto the case.

While we were waiting to establish contact we put the Avon in the water to assess the damage to the wharf area, try to find someone in authority and check the depths of the approaches due to sunk vessels and the fact we did not look to be able to get a pilot. We also observed other two ships approaching the port. We established radio contact with both of these to ascertain their intentions and find out who they were. One was an Indonesian police vessel and the other an Interisland ferry.

Reports back from the avon confirmed they had talked to the harbour master and managed to assess that one berth was possible to use and also had truck access. By this stage the police advised us that we had to wait for the ferry to go in as they had 300 people and cars on board and were to pick up more passengers and vehicles for a departure at 1400.

It was also a case that the police advised that until someone from MSF arrived to take receipt of us, we were not allowed to access the wharf with the RW. Contact with MSF had been established by this time and it became apparent that they had a few problems with their trucks, someone else had offered them more money for them, but the new ones were on the way.

They arrived pretty much at the same time the ferry came alongside with four trucks of medical supplies, food and various other items they desperately needed to get into Meulaboh.

We were of course desperate too, to get in and the wharf was simply not big enough to accommodate the three vessels, at least the way they were berthed. The shore team comprisiong of Moritz (First mate), Agus (deck and Bahasa Indonesian speaker) and myself negotiated as hard as we could with the Police boat and the ferry to try to make room for us but we could not manage it.

So we had to wait for the Ferry to leave, which was OK as they were running a free service since the Tsunami getting people to and from the islands. The police boat was another matter however they were simply there supplying their own guys and had no desire to move on or make room.

Once the ferry had left though, we got alongside straight away and commenced the unloading operation. We had several tons of equipment to come out of the hold and various other parts of the ship and of course all the new stuff to get on. The afternoon from this point on has concerned nothing more than this for us. We managed to get all the trucks back on the road to Banda Aceh just before dusk and as I write this we are currently finishing the stowage of all the equipment we have been left with.

Discussions with the harbourmaster confirmed the ferry comes in at the same time everyday and as far as he is concerned we can come alongside whenever we want if there is space. He lost his wife in the tidal wave, yet he was still there to do the paperwork meeting the boats and seeing to it we were OK.

It was kind of amazing how everyone really was getting about their business considering the devastation really, i couldn't really believe it. the harbour master told me only 73 people had died here, but when you looked around you had to wonder how this could be so low. They got hit with a 10m wave here, and the water is quite deep just offshore so it would have appeared in a flash and noone would have had a chance by the looks of it. Considering that we are actually a little around the corner here too, I am sure things can only get worse in terms of the damage wreaked on the West Coast which of course was directly exposed.

Anyway the engines are on, now we have the tricky part of navigating back out through the boat wrecks with no moon. I am sure we will be quite alright. Next stop Meulaboh, when we have to work out how to get all this gear ashore. We have a few ideas of course, don't worry about that.

If you'd asked me whether we could have made Meulaboh by Friday before we left Singapore I think I would have laughed but now there is no doubt we will.

Departure approx 2100, transit time 12 to 16 hours depending on currents at the tip of Sumatra, so we'll be there around lunchtime tommorrw.

cheers Rob
On the Rainbow Warrior